My Trip Of A LIfetime (Galapagos Islands)

Member Name: rosehall

Product:	Galapagos Islands
Date:	28/05/07 (147 review reads)
Rating:

Advantages: To see wildlife you will not see anywhere else on earth

Disadvantages: A long way to travel

I had always wanted to visit the Galapagos Islands because of the diverse, unique wildlife so unafraid of man and to be found nowhere else on earth.

The Galapagos Islands are a volcanic archipelago of 13 islands just under the Equator about 600 miles west of Ecuador in South America. The oldest of the islands is said to be around 4 million years old and are supposed to be one of the most active volcanic areas in the world. The Islands associated with Charles Darwin who visited them in 1835 and came up with his “theory of evolution” that is known about all over the world today. These islands are now a National Park and highly regulated.

We did a lot of research as to what wildlife we wanted to see and to what islands that were best for viewing the wildlife we wanted to see most . We took into consideration weather, sea temperature as we are mad keen snorkellers and divers. We decided we wanted a smaller boat as we felt that would be more personal and that a 8 day trip looked a good option ( as opposed to 3 or 5 day trips) as the longer trips went to islands further away and hopefully we would see less people and also be able to visit more islands. We booked with Llama Travel and our chosen Motor yacht was the 8 berth Estrella del Mar.

Day 1. Getting There.
We visited the Galapagos Islands whilst staying in Quito in Ecuador. We had already travelled from London Heathrow / Amsterdam / Bonaire / Guayaquil / Quito and had spent a few days in Quito. The original plan was to fly from Quito to San Cristobel in the Galapagos but this had changed to Baltra due to San Crisobel having the tarmac on the runway redone. We also had to stop at Guayaquil where we disembarked the aircraft and waited in the transit lounge for a while. Here we met a young lad called Matt from Germany who was to be on our boat. We were asked to reboard and got back on only to be told some 30 minutes later that there was a problem with the aircraft and we had to get off again. They announced they couldn’t fix the problem and were getting another aircraft. We dismally watched our aircraft being towed away. By now the free nibbles and drinks had lot their appeal as we wanted to get on our way. After a couple of hours we were bussed to another part of the run way to get on the aircraft. Lo and behold it was the exact same plane. Anyhow after around 3 hour flight we arrived at Baltra.We had to pay 100 USD each to the National Parks for entry on the Galapagos Islands. We were met by our guide called Ruly. He was a grade 3 guide which is the highest grade you can have in a guide. It means that they have usually been to university and speak several languages and are very experienced about the Galapagos Islands. We also discovered that there were only going to be 8 people in all on our boat instead of the possible 16. (There were 7 of us that had done the trips in Quito) .Bargain!!!!

Arrival In Baltra.
Thankfully it was hot as we had had plenty of rain in Quito. Our retrieved luggage from the aircraft was whisked away in a lorry and we were told to board a bus which was to take us to the harbour. We had arrived in Baltra in the Galapagos which was a Military airport and as far as we could see the landscape looked very barren.

Where It All Really Begins.
We got off the bus to the little harbour. There were wooden shelters which were occupied by about 4 sleeping sea lions! This took me totally by surprise as did the smell! I hadn’t expected to see wildlife so up-close and personal so soon. They were casually dozing on the benches and floor and one large sea lion got up and shouted at the others something which I imagine must be “give them your best smile guys”. We of course got cameras out and were taking photos like there was no tomorrow!

We were then instructed by our guide in the art of wearing a lifejacket and how to hold our arm for assistance to getting in and out of the little boat (panga) that was to take us to our motor yacht and would also be used for going ashore to the other Islands. There were also Frigate birds and large gulls flying around. There were also several other boats in the harbour awaiting passengers

The Motor Yacht…….Estrella del Mar.

This a comfortable 75ft motor yacht which carries a maximum 16 passengers in 8 small double outward facing cabins,2 lower deck and 6 upper deck .Cabins have private shower and toilet and air condition. There is a large comfortable social area, dining area, bar and sun deck. Crew consisted of 7 people plus our guide.

First Impressions.
Well I was very excited at the thought of spending 7 nights on a boat and could hardly contain my excitement. I wasn’t disappointed and as I stepped on board and walked through the dining area the first thing that hit me was the incredible shiny wooden floor and the comfy seating. Everything was spotless. We were delegated No 6 cabin on the upper deck. We had 2 beds (with drawers in) divided by a bedside table, a wardrobe completed by a bathroom of large shower, sink and toilet. This was home for the next 8 days.

Due to the delay of our flight we had missed our chance to go ashore so we anchored in a channel between Baltra and Santa Cruse. We were told we would have briefings every evening so we were fully aware of the next day’s itinery. We also had a lifeboat drill. We were told if we were wanted a bell would be rung, eg to go out in a panga , mealtimes etc. I did feel at first I was part of the Von Trapp family!!

After a late lunch and settling in we had our first swim in the sea joining the Galapagos puffer fish that were surrounding the boat. The sea was very refreshing at around 24degrees so not quite as cold as we had expected but we were definitely aware of the current. Swimming in the dusk somewhere in the Galapagos Islands viewing the twinkling stars was not a bad start.

Food and Drink on Board.
I am vegetarian and also have an allergy to prawns and the like. The crew made it known they were aware of this. Breakfasts consisted of Juice, fruit or cereal, cooked breakfast (not English!!) and fresh bread, jams and honey. Lunch was usually soup, fish, rice and salad for me whilst the meat eaters had things like beef, chicken as well as fish and similar for dinner. Each meal was finished off with fresh fruit and tea or coffee. The food was served from the galley by the barman cum waiter. The meals were plentiful to say the least if a little different at times. Breakfast and lunch times varied depending on our visits to the islands. Dinner was at 7pm.Tea/herbal teas and coffees were available 24/7 and you could just help yourself. Soft drinks, beer and wine were payable for (as we knew) and Alfredo the barman created a tab and if he wasn’t at the bar you helped yourself and added it to your tab. A bottle of reasonable wine was 10 USD .Other drinks were not too badly priced compared to English pub prices. However as the boat was going into dry dock after we had finished the trip there wasn’t much choice to drink. This we were going to rectify at the first inhabited island.

Day 2. Espanola Island

Morning:

This is the southernmost Island in the Galapagos. Cloudy but warm day to start with. After an overnight sailing we were anchored in Gardner Bay on the north eastern coast of Espanola. At 09:15 after an early breakfast we jumped in the panga and headed for a long sandy beach which was occupied by rather a lot of sea lions. Male Frigate birds (the ones with the red pouch under their chin) were circling above. There were also a few Pelicans. The sun was now baking hot and we donned our snorkelling gear and headed in the sea which was warmer than the night before. As we swam out to an outcrop of rocks the water became clearer. We saw 3 white tipped reef sharks, a large ray, surgeonfish, large wrasses and many others. We were told by others in our group that there were some marine iguanas on the rocks at the end of the beach. We walked along to the rocks past the rows of seal lions that were just basking in the sun or feeding their young or occasionally having a dip in the sea. There were quite a few marine iguanas .They blended in so well on the rocks that I walked past the first ones on the rocks! .These iguanas feed on algy on the rocks several metres under the sea. They have large claws to enable them to hang on to the rocks in the very strong currents. When they come ashore they then squirt out the excess salt through their tear ducts.

Afternoon: Whilst having lunch the boat moved around anticlockwise to Punta Suarez on Espanola Island. We went ashore to a very different part of the island. In fact it was hard to believe it was the same island. We again landed on a little sandy beach. There were sea lions all over the rocks and some in the water. Rocks also covered with the brightly coloured Sally Lightfoot crabs. As we walked a little further on the island the terrain became extremely rocky. We didn’t know where to look first, as apart from the sea lions there were marine iguanas and also our first sighting of the blue footed Booby. The name Booby is Spanish for clown and when you see them do their little dance complete with their song you will understand how perfectly named they are. They are so funny. We saw lots of these birds and spent ages watching and photographing them. As we walked further round the island we saw more sea lions. God they stink!!!! We were surprised to see a few dead decaying ones too. We thought we could hear thunder in the distance but was told it was a blowhole. We saw 2 Galapagos hawks which were apparently a rarity. There appearance caused great concern for the Booby’s. We also saw Nazcar Booby’s (or masked Booby). This island was just teeming with wildlife.

Day 3. Floreana Island.

Early morning trip out in Panga around Punta Cormorant for wildlife watching around rocky outcrop of the island. This island has more than 50 volcanic cones! Saw some pelicans and some penguins. Also white tip reef sharks in shallow waters. Then ashore on a sandy beach to Post Office Bay where there is a wooden barrel for leaving a postcard. This trend was started by whalers in 1793 as they were many months away from home. The whalers put cards in there in the hope that anyone travelling to the country that the card was destined to go to would take it with them. Nowadays another tourist from your country picks it up and posts it when they get home.

Next it was back to the boat to get changed for scuba diving. We nipped off in a panga to dive near where we had been this morning. We saw white tipped reef sharks, rays, 3 hammerheads in the distance, plus lots of other smaller fish. Quite a pleasant 40 minute dive.

Afternoon: After lunch we went snorkelling off devils crown which is a big pointed outcrop of rock, renowned for excellent diving/snorkelling and also strong currents. As we started out it looked quite choppy and I decided to stay in the panga until we got near the coastal side of the crown where it was not so rough although there was still quite a current running. We saw chocolate chip starfish, white tip reef sharks, eagle rays and also snorkelled with a penguin!

Back to boat for a cuppa and to get changed for a trip to a lagoon to see flamingos. As we went ashore there were a few sea lions. There were about a dozen or so flamingos in the lagoon. The surrounding area was quite brush like. As we walked further round the lagoon we were able to get closer to some of the birds. We also spotted greater painted locusts which are like very large crickets. We also saw lava lizards which these species of lizard are endemic to Floreana.We walked further around the island to a sandy beach. It was a lovely picturesque bay. Frigate birds were circling above waiting to pick up turtle hatchlings which were in a area zoned off to tourists. We could also see several turtles and rays in the water quite close to the shore. Back to the boat for overnight sailing to San Cristobel Island.

Day 4. San Cristabel Island.

San Cristobel is one of the largest islands and is inhabited by around 30,000 people. As we went ashore to the tortoise park the town had a feel of being on the Caribbean with its brightly coloured houses. Tortoises on this island were moved from North of Island to re-establish in the South. The park had many tortoises which freely roamed. There was also a little hatchery for small tortoises. We were able to watch them bathe in their pools. It was quite amazing how quick they could move. Back to the boat for lunch.

Afternoon: Ashore again to interpretation centre which was sponsored by the Spanish. It was a newly built building which housed an exhibition of the history of the Galapagos both human and animal. We were left to do our own thing so after the centre we walked the little windy streets back to the town for some souvenir shopping. We watched the frigate birds and pelicans from the pier.

Day 5. Santa Cruz Island.

Overnight sailing to Punta Ayora in Santa Cruz which has the largest community in the Galapagos. Ashore at 8am to catch a waiting bus to the Highlands. After 45 mins we arrived at the centre which was for wild tortoises on farmland. Saw two empty shells of tortoise in the café area which were found by the owners of the reserve. As we walked around the wooded reserve there were several very large tortoises. We spent some time watching a really tortoise eating tree tomato’s. We decided after seeing these chaps that ET was definitely modelled on the head of a tortoise. There were quite a few finches and white egrets around the area.

Next was a visit to the Charles Darwin Foundation. This was a very large centre which was established in 1959 with various exhibitions which we unfortunately didn’t get to see. It all looked fascinating. We saw varieties of tortoises from several islands. We visited the tortoise hatchery. We were able to view lonesome George who is the only sub species of the Pinta Tortoise left on earth and see the land iguanas. The centre was excellently laid out with informative displays around each exhibit but boy it sure was hot and it was hard work walking about in the heat. We walked back to the harbour as there had been a mix up over the coach and we were fed up of waiting. We walked through the little streets back to the harbour, past the fish markets where we saw several pelicans downing large unwanted fishheads!!

Day 6: Santiago Island.

Here we landed on a beautiful small sandy bay complete with the obligatory sea lion. The water was flat calm and gleaming turquoise. Walk over ridges and coils of Lava with little vegetation. Saw a snake, penguins, American oystercatchers and the little lava lizards. Very interesting scenery. We could hear a barking bull sea lion nearby.

We had time for a snorkel. The water was lovely. Saw many different reef fish and lots of the chocolate chip starfish. Also saw white tipped reef sharks. I was suddenly startled by a large black shape next to me but realised to my joy I was swimming with a sea lion.

Afternoon: Diving. Water was quite choppy. Rocky terrain to 18m where we stopped and hung on to rocks to try to see hammerheads as there was a bit of current. A cold thermocline came across. Water temperature dropped from about 25 degrees to 20.The water looked just like glass. It was amazing! Viz was a bit cloudy. Saw a white tip reef shark and 4 turtles and 2 large schools of barracuda.

Back to the boat in time to jump aboard another panga to see penguins and oystercatchers from Bartolome. We then went ashore on Bartolome to walk up 400ft to the summit of the island via a wooden walkway which was quite a climb up many steps. The scenery was breathtaking and looked just like the wind had left ripples in sand, except it was lava.

Day7: Islas Plaza (North & South)

Before breakfast we landed at South side to see the Land Iguanas. These were sandy in colour and quite big. There were many sea lions and Sally Lightfoot crabs. Flying around were swallowtail gulls and there very various seabirds on the cliffs. In this area the iguanas seemed to be in poorer condition as you could sea their ribs. We saw a hybrid iguana Marine X land iguana.

After breakfast we sailed 3 ½ hours to Santa Fe and anchored in a lovely blue lagoon. We went ashore and had to walk past many sea lions that were on the sandy beach to see second type of land iguana which was green this time. There were also large opuntia cacti which must have been about 7 feet tall.

Afternoon: swim in the lagoon which was not as clear as we expected although nice and warm. The panga men were taking it in turns to spot things for us. We saw many very large eagle rays some must have easily been 6 ft in width! Also several large turtles and several white tip reef sharks one of which had a hook in its mouth.

We then sailed to Baltra to be nearby for disembarking the following morning. Manta rays were spotted jumping out of the sea.

Day 8 - Baltra.

This was our final outing in panga before breakfast to Turtle Creek. |Lots of tributaries with mangrove islands. Some of the water was quite shallow. There were Pelicans in the mangroves. We could see turtles, rays and sharks in the water. Great fun to watch and try to film the blue footed boobies who gave us the most spectacular display of their diving skills.

Back to boat for breakfast then disembarked at Baltra harbour again being met by the sea lions. There were also large opuntia cacti which must have been about 7 feet tall. Many sea lions and Sally Lightfoot crabs. We arrived at the airport at 9:30am for our 13:30 flight to Quito. Mist came down causing a plane to abort its landing. Fortunately as the mist cleared our plane landed on time. This time although we were flying via Guayaquil to Quito we stayed on the plane. We landed at Quito around 17:30 for pickup to our hotel.

Recommended: Yes most definitely

For further information www.llamatravel.com

Cost: The whole trip including our stay in Quito and all excursions except on the last day in Quito was £2294 each

Thank you for reading about my trip of a lifetime and hope it wasn’t too boring.

Summary: It really is a trip of a lifetime