An Old City set on Three Hills in Southern Spain (Granada (Spain))

Member Name: Praskipark

Product:	Granada (Spain)
Date:	24/05/09 (112 review reads)
Rating:

Advantages: A Fascinting insight to the Moors and their Traditions and Influences

Disadvantages: Bit hilly for some, does get busy in Summer

For many years travelling through Spain we always avoided Granada. Why? The thought of walking around this great city looking at its treasures along with thousand of other tourists always put me off especially in the mid July heat. I am so glad that I changed my mind and plucked up courage to take the task in hand because this is a beautiful city, one of the most beautiful in Europe.

The Alhambra and Generalife are the reason most visitors come here, but Granada has much more to offer and the old city is worth exploring. My review is about the sights in the old town and around. The Alhambra and Generalife Gardens are too big a topic to add to this review so look out for a separate review coming soon.

Both the Moorish legacy and the topography of Granada are overwhelming. Set on three hills (Albaicin, Sacramonte and Sabika) on the lower slopes of the Sierra Nevada, the city gently merges with the vega below, a fertile plain cultivated by the Moors. Glowing in the background are the snow-capped peaks of the Sierra Nevada. Nowadays it is not so easy to cast your eye over the city's grand setting as high rise apartments dominate in the provincial capital's suburban belt. But there is still beauty to be seen.

Little Bit of History
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The first of the Nasrid rulers, Mohammed ibn Jusuf ibn Nasr (1238-73), founded the kingdom of Granada in 1238, although ultimately he allowed allegiance to Fernando III. Art and culture blossomed under the Nasrid dynasty. Mohammed 1 laid the foundation stone of the Alhambra, the only medieval Islamic palace complex in the world to have survived almost intact. However, in 1482, the Catholic monarchs, Isabela and Ferdinand, set about bringing the last Islamic enclave to an end. In 1392, after a long siege, Boabdil, the city's last Moorish king, handed over the keys of the city.

I am going to start my tour of the Old Quarter beside the central Plaza Nueva. This is an elegant square with tall, graceful buildings and was once used for bullfighting, tournaments and public executions. The sqaure was built on top of the river Darro to make more space in the city. It's nice to sit at one of the cafes here and take in the atmosphere of the city but you may be mithered by beggars as it is a bit of a tourist trap.

Beside the square stands the Palacio de la Audiencia which is the province's high court, and the delightful Santa Ana church built in the Mudejar style. This is a style of architecture which incorporated Muslim, Christian and Jewish influences and was first noticeable in the 12th century on the Iberian peninsula. This wonderful church has a very grandiose, plateresque west door. Plateresque is a 16th century Spanish style of architecture - generally lavish and very ornate, using silver plate as a medium.

Moving on down Calle de los Reyes Catolicos towards the city centre you will come to Corral del Carbon, one of the oldest Moorish buildings in the city which in the 19th century used to store the city's coal. A pretty patio with an original Moorish fountain and cobbles. Today it is the site of the regional tourist office and craft shops. During the summer, open-air performances are staged in the courtyard.

In Calle de Pavernas you will find the 16th century palace, Casa de los Tiros, built like a fortress and named after the musket barrels bulging from its facade. Inside, the grand stairway is hung with portraits of Spanish Royals who all look rather grim, even Ferdinand and Isabela, who I always thought were the Posh and Becks of their time but they don't look like it - far too miserable. The major features are the magnificent carved ceiling and the Hall of Gold, which is decorated with gold lettering. Interesting to see the old photos and lithographs showing how Granada used to be in the 19th centuries.

Open Mon - Fri from 2.30 - 8pm. Entrance fee 2 euros

Many tiny lanes cross Calle de los Reyes Catolicos and if you wander through them you will come across the Alcaiceria which was once the silk market, but now mainly sounvenir shops. Although it was destroyed by fire in 1843, the quarter has been built in its original style and still radiates the charm of an albeit touristy souk.

The Capilla Real (Royal Chapel) was built between 1504 and 1521 as a mausoleum for Ferdinand and Isabela, the Catholic Monarchs , who unified Spain. It is very flamboyant in a Gothic style and it stands on Calle de los Oficios (entrance through the old stock exchange). Marble monuments represent Ferdinand and Isabela, their daughter Juana la Loca (The Mad) and Felipe el Hermoso (the Handsome). The marble tombs are still in good condition and quite ornately adorned. The two tombs of Juana and Felipe are a little grander and much higher than the tombs of Ferdinand and Isabella. The carved altar wall is dedicated to John the Babtist and John the Evangelist. The highlight of the chapel, for me, was the splendid altar grille. It is decorated in intricate figures of plants, trees, animals, birds and people.

The Royal Chapel is open daily from 10.30 - 1pm, 4 -7 pm. On Sundays and public holidays the chapel opens at 11am until 1pm. There is a charge for admission and it was 4 euros when I was there last year. Please note that cameras and mobile phones are not allowed when entering.

The neighbouring cathedral was built in 1523 on the site of the city's main mosque to commemorate the victory of the Catholic Monarchs. It consists of five naves with side chapels and an unusual circular chancel with a gallery. The west facade was added in 1669 in the form of a huge triumphal arch. Like many other features in the church, it is the work of the Granadian master, Alonso Cano, who is buried in the precincts. One of Cano's masterpieces, the small carved figure of Maria Immaculata, can be seen in the sacristy. Beautiful windows in the upper part of the chancel let in rays of light which illuminate the many sculptures and add colour to the chancel as a whole. I've visited a lot of cathedrals over the years but there is a special calmness in this one and the light shining from the top of the balconies in the chancel gives the building a celestial feel.

If you wish to explore the area around the cathedral start at the square near the west facade until you come to the Plaza Bib-Rambla. This place is bustling and there is a very lively atmosphere among the flower stalls, pavement cafes and kiosks.

On the other side of the cathedral, Call de San Jeronimo heads north across Plaza de la Universidad to the Monasterio de San Jeronimo. The monastery was commissioned by the Catholic Monarchs but they died before completion. Buried in the church is Don Gonzalo Fernandez de Cordoba, popularly known as El Gran Capitan, the commander of the Catholic Monarchs' troops, and his wife Maria de Maurique. The building is a fine example of Renaissance architecture and the two 16th century cloisters are very elegant. Overall, this is a beautiful example of Renaissance work and one of the finest I have seen in southern Spain.

Sacramonte, rises up to the north of my favourite old quarter of Granada, Albaicin. It used to be one of the most well known parts of the city. The caves that riddled the hillsides were the homes of gypsies and you used to be able to see genuine flamenco there. Now the gypsies have all been re-housed, and their community broken up. There are still a few flamenco shows in Sacramonte, but they are strictly for tourists.

The white Albaicin quarter of winding alleyways and narrow staircases clings to the hill across from the Alhambra. The district with its carmenes (country houses with gardens) is now under a protection order. A terrace near San Nicolas church in the heart of the quarter provides a magnificent panoramic view of the Alhambra, probably the one you see on all the postcards.

Climb the hill a little further and you will reach Puerta Nueva, once a Zirid fortress. Two paths lead from here down to the River Darro. To the west, on Calle jon de las Monjas, stands the Nasrid palace, dar al-Horra. Although, there isn't much too look at except a small patio with pools and the surrounding alcoves. It now belongs to the Santa Isabel la Real monastery which was founded in 1501 by Queen Isabela . Part of the palace was demolished to make way for the monastery. The road down leads to San Jose, another Mudejar church whose bell tower was originally the minaret of an Almoravid mosque. Carry on downhill and you will come back to Plaza Nueva where I started off.

I might just add that the Albaicin area is the home for the authentic and oriental tea shops especially at the lower end of the quarter. These tea shops are known as teterias and it is nothing like going out to a tea shop in UK for a piece of cake and a cuppa. In a teteria you will be able to soak up the Moorish influences and take part in their age old traditions of tasting exotic and aromatic flavoured tea whilst relaxing in a romantic, opulent and intimate atmosphere. Different varieties of teas are served including the traditional Moroccan tea made with fresh mint leaves or you can try a delicate scented tea made from rose petals. Arabic coffee is available but be warned it is very strong and I had a most delicious milk shake in a cafe in this old quarter - made from fresh yogurt. You can try out a hookah and puff away. The ambience is generally relaxed and the tea rooms are frequented by students and other young Spanish as well as visitors. The decor is rich and sensuous with soft furnishings in velvets and silks and beautiful ornate lamps.

In the same area around the tea shops look out for Moroccan cake shops and bazaars selling souvenirs such as traditional tea sets and tea pots. A bit kitsch and very touristy but good fun.

Now, it's time to head eastwards from the busy Plaza Larga at the heart of the Albaicin quarter until you arrive in the area known as San Pedro. Here you will find the church of San Salvador. From here cut through the narrow Calle Tomasas and Calle San Agustin to Cuesta del Chapiz and then descend between the thick white walls to Paseo Padre Manjon and its lively terraced cafes beside the gurgling River Darro. This is an area I like to stroll through because I like to see and hear the river and it is very shady with buildings enveloping both sides of the river.

Downstream on the left stands the church of San Pedro which has a beautifully handcrafted ceiling. Casa del Castril, the Renaissance palace opposite, dates from 1539 and houses the Archeology Museum. The collection includes prehistoric, Roman and Visigothic finds and art and artefacts from Moorish times.

The museum is open Tuesday 3-8pm, Wed to Sat, 9am - 8pm, Sunday, 9am - 2pm.

A little further on is El Banuelo, a well preserved Arab baths complex dating from the 11th century. The marble floor in the main room is original; some of the capitals date from Visigoth and Umayyad times. I love the entrance to the baths as you have to walk through a lovely shaded patio where the air is filled with birdsong.

Arab baths or otherwise known by the Arabic word for them which is 'hammam' were used all over southern Spain for people to cleanse their bodies. They were banned by the Christians when they took over Spain and Granada was the first city to re-introduce them after the invaders left. You will find in most other areas in southern Spain that these baths are re-opening and besides the traditional steam rooms other treatments are offered.

Finally, we come to El Capitan's Monastery. The grand Monasterio de la Cartuja is in the northern outskirts of the city so it is a little trek - you need to follow the signs for La Cartuja. I only mention this because this chap was responsible for the Catholic Monarchs military campaigns. The monastery was actually founded by El Gran Capitan in 1506. The cloisters and church are Renaissance in style, and the sacristy is a perfect example of the Spanish Baroque style which is sometimes known as Churrigueresque. This style is an elaborate decorative style using sculptures of flowers, shells and garlands usually seen around the lavish entrances or on the main facades of churches in Spain. A fine example of this style is the cathedral in Santiago do Compostela and the twin towered cathedral in Zacatecas, Mexico. I find this style fascinating and generally spend hours scrutinising the sculptured facades because I always find something new every time.

*I haven't spelt Capitan incorrectly - that is the right spelling. Unfortunately. my keyboard is English so I can't type the words in the correct Spanish way.

That about covers the old city of Granada. Lots to see and do and when the city is busy can get tiring but well worth a visit . The setting alone is amazing and if you like Moorish traditions and influences then this is the place to visit.
You can cover it in a day but I would suggest 2 or 3 days to see everything and another day to visit the majestic Alhambra. (Review coming up shortly).

Summary: Nothing quite like it in Europe