Guns, Sea, Sand and Shabbat (Israel)

Member Name: kittykat18

Product:	Israel
Date:	28/01/05 (445 review reads)
Rating:

Advantages: Historic, Beautiful, Vastly varied landscape

Disadvantages: Fear, Attitude, Security

I spent two weeks in Israel over Christmas and New Year. I lost count of the times people thanked me for going there at a time when so many are afraid.

There really isn’t any need to be afraid. The last suicide bomb attack in Israeli territory was in September, and nearly all cases of violence break out in isolated areas which are easy to avoid as a traveller.

A trip to Israel can take in Egypt and Jordan as day trips, although with an Israeli stamp in your passport you will be barred entry from most other Arabic countries. Apparently you can ask immigration officials to not stamp your passport, but I arrived bleary eyed and hungover at 5am and the stamp was dry before I registered that anything had happened.

You will more than likely be flying El Al from the UK to Israel. Get to the airport early, be prepared to be questioned, and don’t take it personally. El Al are known for being the most security conscious airline in the world, understandably given the current climate. At least you know you will be safe flying with them.

Israel boasts incredible history and is home to numerous religions, including Judaism, Christianity, Islam, the secret Druze faith and Ba’haism. It has beautiful Mediterranean beaches, dramatic mountains, and scorched deserts, all within a few hours drive of each other.

There is a variety of accommodation available in Israel, from budget hostels, to mid range Kibbitzniks, to top of the range international hotel chains. Be warned - I had a fantasy about staying on a Kibbutz, chanting round the fire, children running amongst the flowers and so on. The Kibbutzniks that offer accommodation now are more like holiday villages, but they do offer good value in some great locations.

Israel has a year round pleasant climate. Although I was there in the depths of winter, I wore T-shirts most days. It’s well advised to pack a variety of clothing, as the weather can vary hugely from the North to the South. In Jerusalem it was cold and rainy, and the street sellers made a mint on selling Coca Cola umbrellas.

Israel is not really suited to the budget traveller, as there is no dirt cheap way of getting there (RyanAir don’t go there yet) and prices are not dramatically different from the UK. Disabled travellers probably won’t fare too well either, as so many of the sites are historic and therefore unsuitable for wheelchair users or those who have mobility difficulties. This is something I learned first hand after I had a nasty fall, tore a ligament and was unable to walk for the rest of the trip.

Fully comprehensive travel insurance is absolutely essential. Medical care is very expensive otherwise. I was so grateful for my insurance after the fall, as I had to spend a day ferrying around doctors and hospitals. The treatment I received was good, although I had to wait for hours to be see, and the doctor X-raying me chatted on her mobile phone at the same time.

I was travelling by private coach, although the Egged bus network is thought to be a good choice for budget travellers. There are also many car hire firms.

Best sights in Israel:

--The Old City of Jerusalem

Made up of four different quarters (Arab, Jewish, Christian and Armenian), the walled Old City is home to the holiest site of Judaism (The Western Wall), the third holiest site of Islam (the Temple Mount or “Al-Aqsa”), and the Church of the Holy Sepulchre where Jesus is said to be buried.

--The Desert and Masada

Much of Southern Israel is made up of vast desert, known as the Negev. It’s a dramatic, harsh yet beautiful place. Nights in the desert allow a fantastic view of clear skies sparkling with thousands of distant stars. Morning creeps in slowly, the sky morphing from red to orange to purple to pink.

Masada is a flat topped mountain, with its dramatic history engrained on the Jewish consciousness. It was at Masada, in around 100 AC, that 1000 Jewish people killed themselves rather than surrender to the Romans. A steep climb to the top gives incredible views to the Dead Sea, and tours about the history of the fortress are available. I was unable to climb the mountain to catch the sunrise (which looked beautiful), but instead caught the cable car up and down.

--The Dead Sea

You can’t go to Israel and not float on the Dead Sea. It’s the lowest point on earth, and not really a sea at all, but a vast lake situated between Israel and Jordan. It has an extremely high salt and mineral content, which is why everything floats so easily, and is said to have many benefits to health. Ein Gedi is a resort along the shores of the Dead Sea which has shower facilities, massages and a café. You will certainly need a hot shower after going in the slightly slimy water.

There’s no need to buy the expensive Dead Sea cosmetics, simply scoop up a handful of mud from the sea bed and slap it all over any exposed skin. I did just that, and have never experienced such soft skin since I was a baby. Be careful if you have any cuts though, and don’t shave your legs or armpits on the same day as going in the water, as it will really sting!

--The Golan Heights

This is disputed territory, on the Northern border with Syria. Looming mountains allow views across to Syria one way, Lebanon another and Israel behind you. A sign has been erected showing the distances to other capitals- Damascus 40 kilometres, Baghdad 800 kilometres. A trip here reminds you of Israel’s unique position amongst Arab and Muslim neighbours. The only neighbours that are at peace (albeit slightly uneasy) with Israel are Jordan and Egypt.

There is a ski resort on Mount Hertzl, open during the Winter months.

--Haifa

A port city in the North, home to the Ba'hai temple which is beautiful and informative. The gardens surrounding the temple cost £6 million, and it shows.

-- Safed

Home to the Kabbalah sect, this is a mystic town, with winding streets, a great market and many synagogues.

-The Sea of Galilee

This is a beautiful region where I saw many mysterious birds, an orange moon, and felt a sense of peace in the middle of the chaotic, bustling country of Israel.


--Food:

I ate fantastically in Israel. Fresh fruit, huge salads, an amazing array of deserts. That may have just been the hotels I was staying in though. Street food is available everywhere, specialities are bagels and the ubiquitous falafel. I’ve never eaten falafel like I did in Israel. Food, like everything else, is not cheap.

Currency:

The New Israeli Shekel. Around 8 shekels= £1. Order your currency in advance from the post office as they don’t tend to have much in stock, or change it once in Israel.

-Note about Shabbat

On Shabbat (Friday sunset until Saturday sunset), the Jewish day of rest, everything grinds to a halt. No public transport, although you will be able to get an Arab taxi. Shops and restaurants closed. Take it as a chance to relax and have a walk or two.

Hotels should make concessions for Shabbat observing guests, such as having Shabbat lifts, which automatically stop on every floor (observers believe they shouldn't use any electric item on Shabbat)


Concerns:

Some people are understandable wary about visiting Israel, not necessarily for safety fears, but from a moral stance. There is of course, on going conflict between the Israelis and the Palestinians. All Israelis are conscripted into the army at 18, and you will see armed soldiers everywhere.

If you want to visit any areas under the Palestinian Authority, this is allowed and is fairly hassle free. You may want to visit Bethlehem, or Jericho, which are part of the West Bank area. I had planned to spend a week travelling within the Palestinian controlled areas, which I have heard are welcoming and also beautiful, but after falling and being unable to walk, I changed my plan.

You can visit Israel as a general traveller, to work on a Kibbutz, or alternatively, volunteer on a peace initiative which encourages solidarity between Israelis and Palestinians. I found it heartening to find out about such projects, and the numbers of people there who are committed to working together and making a difference. Israelis have a bad reputation, not only politically, but also for plain rudeness.

I did notice a certain brusqueness from certain people, and found the Arab staff in our hotels far more pleasant than the Jewish staff, I’m sorry to say! However, the brusqueness is mostly just a front, a hard exterior disguising a soft, kind and warm nature inside.

Israel, and the Palestinian territories, deserves to be a top tourist destination as it has a lot to offer visitors, history and supreme beauty, but given the current political situation, I can’t imagine it happening.

I was in Israel as part of an education tour through which I was sponsored to take part in. I saw things that have made a great impact to me, and actually visiting the country has given me a much better understanding of the issues. It was an experience I will never forget, and I would like to return one day in the future, hopefully when some sort of peace has come to this disputed land.
 

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