A real jewel of a city (Istanbul)

Member Name: europhile

Product:	Istanbul
Date:	06/04/09 (47 review reads)
Rating:

Advantages: has city life and beaches within short traveling distance

Disadvantages: there is too much to see and do in one visit

Everything people say about this city is true- romantic , busy , bustling, ancient , fascinating. It is also a young city as , its population , currently estimated at anywhere between 15 and 20 million, depending on who you ask, is more than 60 % below the age of 35. This lends the city a vibrancy that grabs you by the throat . Getting there in summer is not cheap but there are still some bargains to be had if you don't mind which airport you go from or dont mind a stop over. Swiss air often is cheap but you pay for everything extra on board the flight and will change in Zurich.

There is much to do there and even if you think you aren't interested in Roman or Byzantine or Islamic art and architecture it will be hard to avoid getting interested , as Istanbul is layer after layer of the many civilisations that have ruled here, built on top of one another . What always amazes me too is the relative tolerance of the place in terms of religion and ethnicity.Mosques inside former Christian buildings , Anglican cathedrals nearby to Dirvish schools ,in turn near to an old synagogue. The Jewish presence in this city , which derives mainly from the invitation of the then Sultan to Spains Jews, following their expulsion by the Inquisition is still visible in the names of stallholders in parts of the Grand Bazaar. East certainly meets west here and the colourful nature of the markets, the faces seen and languages heard as you wander the markets and streets is sometimes astounding in their variety.
For those of you intent on buying always haggle. Yes, I know the British sometimes find this difficult but never assume that the price asked for is the price you should pay. Show some reluctance , some hesitation. You will always get a reduction or something else thrown in .If you can, get a local or guide to haggle for you, assuming that you know they aren't involved with the sellers! The exchange rate too isn't bad ( at the time of writing)considering the £ has slumped against so many other currencies. The range of currency exchange values in Istanbul can be quite startling and is worth shopping around for . ATMS are everywhere , so using your cards isnt a problem but you will need cash for many places . One tip for shoppers and in general, for putting off shoe shine boys ( who will polish your open toed sandels if you let them) or others intent on selling to you is not to shake your head from side to side - it doesn't work. Instead jerk your head up with chin up as it is more effective in registering your disinterest.

The city can be exciting and if in your stay there you want to get away for a few hours for a breather , take a ferry to one or more of the Princes Islands . The journey is relaxing and the islands are pretty with plenty of interest including food and walks and little motorized traffic . Approaching the city from the sea on your return is stunning and romantic too. Women visitors should not be too worried about the fact that Turkey is predominantly Muslim. You will be expected to wear a scarf in the mosques and both sexes , if in shorts, will have to wear a wrap round skirt. Shoes come off but are quite safe to leave whilst you explore.

Alcohol is readily available there, though spirits have been put up in price in the last year or two. Food is great - have a fish sandwich by the ferry port or try kokoretch a delicacy the EU has tried to ban, as it is spit roasted sheep intestine. Sounds revolting but is excellent and cheap. Restaurants just as in most big cities range from the cheap to the absurdly overpriced . Avoid the most obvious touristy places , though Kumkapi district has many good eateries , especially fish. Ask in your hotel for good places - they always know somewhere.
I'm not religious but am interested in the effect religions has and had on culture. One thing I would not have missed out on in Istanbul is attending a ceremony by the Suffi ( whirling ) Dervishes. Whilst a bit touristy it is a captivating experience and oddly moving . As to guidebooks we have liked both the Rough guide and the Dornton Kindersley guides to Turkey and Istanbul. Even though they sometimes contradict each other in their views, both are extensively researched , the latter with good photographs and plans of major monuments. Worth buying before hand and reading ahead of a visit to plan what you want to see.Saves you buying the overpriced guides that that are always on sale outside each monument or inside the hotels. You wont get it all done in one go . I'm going again in July 2009 for a weekend and already planning to see bits that my last 8 visits have left untrod . Do go and be prepared for a very different experience. We usually go with half empty cases- there are always bargains to be had!

Summary: Be prepared to be overawed by some of the sights and sounds of this place