Stink and Beauty (Jaffa)

Member Name: vikil

Product:	Jaffa
Date:	30/06/00 (27 review reads)
Rating:

Advantages: A taste of real middle east within a walking distance from Tel-Aviv.

Disadvantages: The stink and the dirt.

Jaffa is a city of contradictions. Being one of a very few towns in Israel there Arabs and Jews actually live together, it has an exotic flavour of mixed cultures. And unlike Tel-Aviv which is ever pretending to be that it's not (mainly a bustling European metropolis), it is genuinely authentic.

What will strike you most when you enter Jaffa (the best way to do it, is just to walk or ride along the Tel-Aviv boardwalk straight onto Jaffa's main street) is the astounding poverty of everything around you. Despite countless visits I never really got used to the transition from the glitter of Tel-Aviv beach-facing slivers to the next door slums. BUT, don't let this deter you. Jaffa has a few surprises up its sleeve. The most attractive and tourist friendly area of Jaffa is the Old City, a fortress-like maze of cobbled streets and old Arab-style houses, perched on top of a hill. There are two ways of getting to the top: either take a left from the Jaffa high street (first turn after the Clock Tower, if you come from Tel-Aviv) and climb the sprawling flight of stairs starting from a cluster of Kebab restaurants (DO NOT eat there, diarrhoea assured), or choose a more adventurous route through a mostly deserted gardens with winding paths (turn left before the tower, the gardens will be on your left after a short walk .Not recommended for unescorted girls). The Old City is quite small and easy to get around. There are lots of trinket shops, small galleries and nice pubs. The food will be generally expensive and the quality questionable, so it's up to you. The best time to visit is in the evening when it looks like a postcard, illuminated in soft golden colours, and the sea breeze bring some relief from the murderous Mediterranean sun.

For something less touristy, with authentic flavour visit the flea market (turn right after the clock tower), a good place for ethnic clothing, trinkets, carpets and some unexpected bargains. The port area (j
ust underneath the Old City), has a wide choice of sea-food restaurants, and if you shop around you can end up with a reasonably priced meal of shrimp and fish. In the very entrance to Jaffa on your left is a famous ice-cream parlour Dr. Lack. The brand is a sprawling empire by now with branches all over the place, but this is it's first outlet. If you like rich sticky ice-cream, this is your paradise (try the cinnamon and chocolate orange flavours, the absolute best). My personal Jaffa favourite is a tiny Arab restaurant with allegedly best humus in Jaffa (and there is a LOT of humus here). It's called Meleh Ha'humus (The King of Humus) and serves mouth watering falafel, great salad menza, and of course divine humus (to get there go straight up the High St till you see the sign on your right, it's a bit of a walk but it's worth it.).
Oh and before I forget, Jaffa is also the best place to buy cheap shoes (most of them manufactured straight on the premises).

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