Much more than a Border Town (Jerez de la Frontera)

Member Name: Praskipark

Product:	Jerez de la Frontera
Date:	14/05/09 (92 review reads)
Rating:

Advantages: Situated in the sherry and wine triangle of Andalucia

Disadvantages: None, I can think of

I have been travelling to Spain for many years but always by road. I have never in thirty years of travelling to this country ever flown into a Spanish airport not even when on business. All my journeys have been over land, usually in the hottest months and although at times it has seemed like one long endurance test and has been uncomfortable, it has also been a fantastic experience to witness the diverse landscapes of this beautiful panoramic country. I love most areas of Spain but if I had to choose one, it would definitely be southern Spain.

Southern Spain is known for its wonderful landscapes and cultured cities like Granada, Cordoba, Seville and Cadiz but there are some very fine smaller cities which have their own individual beauty and one of those is Jerez de la Frontera. This city was originally the Moorish town of Xerox, conquered in 1264 by Alphonso X, and fought over for many years. Like many towns and villages in this region it was given the suffix de la Frontier which means, 'by the border.'

Jerez de la Frontera is the largest town and commercial centre in the Cadiz Province. Most people will probably know that the town is famous for sherry and thoroughbred Carthusian horses but I know it more for its Flamenco dancing and very wide streets that are adorned with jacaranda trees, standing in rows, like decorated soldiers on parade. In Spring time these trees have the most beautiful shade of blue blooms - almost pale lilac with a blue sheen. They are my favourite trees and I love to see the heavily laden branches blowing gently in the soft, warm wind.

Jerez is a very busy town and it lives exclusively from its production of world famous wines. Wherever you walk in the town, you will come across the impressive, 'cathedrals of wine', the bodegas or cellars, belonging to the sherry producers. I love to see the colour of sherry in its different stages - from the light, fine sherry to the darker golden oloroso. If you are interested in visiting the cellars then guided tours are available on weekdays and it is very interesting. Well, I found it interesting and learnt a lot from the tour. The bodega I have visited and one I recommend is the Gonzalez Byass Bodega. Here, I received a full and detailed explanation of the cultivation methods and the production process. Also, I realised that the management of the Bodega hope to change people's attitudes regarding sherry especially the young. It has always been perceived as an old ladies drink who like to take a tipple on special occasions from a small glass. This is not the case with Fino sherry. It is poured into long wide glasses and serve chilled and is a popular drink with young Spaniards. Of course you are allowed to sample some of the wines which are mainly dry and come from the Palonimo grape which grows successfully on the chalky soil surrounding Jerez. Also, fascinating to watch is the art of pouring sherry which is from a long handled, slightly bent utensil with a metal measuring cup on the end. This is tilted using the right hand and held at least a foot in the air so the liquid trickles into a glass held in the opposite hand. Somehow I don't think I could do this without spilling it all over the place. It is obviously a special technique. Also in the grounds of the bodega is a small chamber made out of steel which was designed by Gustav Eiffel - the same chap who designed the Eiffel Tower in Paris.

A number of buildings around the bodegas are worth a peek - such highlights include; the Alcazar, the Colegiata del Salvador, Plaza de la Asuncion. The best place to start a short tour of the town is at Plaza de los Reyes Catolicos, where you will see an equestrian statue dedicated to General Miguel Primo da Rivera who was born here in 1870. His dictatorship lasted from 1923 for seven years. This is a very pretty area and I find the statue very lovely to look at although it dominates the square but somehow it just seems so regal. Here there is a pedestrian zone which will take you to the late Gothic church of San Miguel which was built around 1430. Inside there is a remarkable altarpiece based on a design by Martinez Montanes.

At the highest point of the town you will see the Alcazar which was built during the Almohad era - amazingly the mosque inside has survived. The brick structure was an octagonal dome and is a rare example of a 12th centuury palace mosque.

From the back of the Alcazar you will see the Colegiata del Salvador, sometimes called the cathedral, which was built on the foundations of a mosque. The building nowadays with its huge open staircase dates back to the 18th century. What I find interesting here is the extended butressing in a Baroque building - very remarkable. The unusual painting in the treasury called, The Sleeping Girl was painted by Francisco de Zurbaran.

Flamenco
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Flamenco is a legacy of Spain's distant Arabic past with some gypsy traditions and Jewish/Hebrew elements added along the way. Hovering around one note, singing several notes for a single syllable, and using scales with intermediate notes are all strange to western harmonies. Flamenco emerged from the poorest areas of Ronda, Seville and Cadiz. This wailing music was a cry for help, a response to alienation and the suppression of the gypsies, rural peasants and Moriscos (Muslims who were forced to serve Christianity or suffer great pain and sometimes death). It is a song of pain, of deep anguish, of desperation and of rebellion.

Initially, Flamenco was only sung in private or in small bars, called juergas. Dancing developed out of the songs. Originally they were accompanied only by rhythmic handclapping. In the 1920's Flamenco began to become popular and for commercial reasons it was considered best to drop its hard edges and defiant delivery which stood in the way of commercial success. The song and dance performances in the cafes cantantes soon became popular throughout all levels of society.

Flamenco's audience grew and choreographed sequences were added and were performed in tablaos, aficionados' bars. These dance routines had hardly anything in common with the cante jondo of real flamenco - where the singing from the depths (or duende) when the singer experiences a profound and mysterious immersion in the emotions of the music or dance.

I adore flamenco even though I know it isn't everyone's favourite type of music. If you are interested in music and dance I do recommend a visit to Jerez for the Burleria Flamenco festival in September. Here you will have an opportunity to see genuine flamenco. Even if you aren't a flamenco fan the festival is worth seeing just for the costumes; beautiful dresses in silks of carnation red with billowing sleeves designed like a can can dress; layer and layer of red and white material forming the skirts of the dresses - so much material that when the dancers twist and turn to the jagged edges of the music the swishing noise is so loud you think the waves of the sea have just tumbled upon terra firma. Raven black hair, long and flowing - shining like the mane of a thoroughbred stallion. Men and boys wearing black flowing trousers sometimes with braces. White silk peasant shirts slightly hiding underneath waistcoats of red velvet and we mustn't forget the black Fedora hats worn by the males or the decorative combs, flowers, intricate lace shawls, tassles, fans and coloured bangles worn by the females. Stunning, magical, beautiful. A sight to behold and not one to forget.

http://www.festivaldejerez.com/

Horses and Horse Schools
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Now, I have had a love of horses since I was very small and I love riding. From the age of 11 until 16, I was fortunate enough to live on a farm in Lincolnshire that had riding stables and consequently I became involved with horses and so on. At the side of our house my Dad fenced off a piece of ground and made this area into a paddock where my brother and I used to ride bareback. My father is an expert on horse breeds and he has always had a great love for the Carthusian breed and used to spend hours rattling on about this breed and how it was related to the famous Lippizaners which are a breed of horses usually associated with the Viennese School of classical horsemanship. So you can imagine how thrilled I was when I visited the school in Jerez and to actually see the Carthusian breed. Oh boy! They are certainly wonderful to look at with their white muscular bodies and beautiful plaited manes.

The Real Escuela Andaluza del Arte Ecuestre is a horse school where you can go to watch dressage performances in the vast arena. Doma Vaquera is the name of a Spanish form of dressage and you can witness this fantastic art form here at the school. The atmosphere is overwhelming as it is so silent when the horses are parading around and then when they have finished performing the audience becomes so animated, clapping and cheering. If you are an experienced rider you can take part in dressage classes and on some mornings you are allowed in to watch the rehearsals and training sessions, which is almost as interesting as the main performances.

The school is situated in Avenida Duque de Abrantes and performances are staged every Thursday from March until October at 11 am and also on Tuesday at noon.

Shopping
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Things to look out for in Jerez de la Frontier are obviously wines, sherry and brandy but embroidered mantillas and genuine flamenco dancing shoes make good gifts to take home. You will also find painted fans and horn combs, finely cut jewellery and a variety of pottery. Traditional baskets are on sale here which are woven from esparto grass and alpargatas, shoes of the same material, are sold here also. Shopping in Jerez is a pleasant experience because the streets are wide, pedestrianised and shaded.

Hotels
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In Jerez there is quite a good selection of hotels ranging from budget to luxurious accommodation. One hotel I will recommend is la Fonda Barranco which is situated in the historical heart of the city. The building is an old merchant's house dating back from the mid 1800's and has been renovated to a high standard. Without giving you to much detail because I will probably review the hotel at a later date, I will just say that the building has a Moorish feel to it with rustic lamps, beamed ceilings, wrought iron arches, stone walls and luxurious and sumptious furniture and decor in mellow colours. Last time I visited which was over a year ago prices were about 50 euros for a single room and 75 euros for a double room which isn't too expensive. The building has been beautifully restored and I highly recommend it.

Restaurants
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Restaurants in this part of Spain are of a very high standard and generally serve seafood, fish and traditional Jerez stews consisiting of game and incorporating a drop or two of the famous wines or sherry or even brandy of the region. Jerez vinegar is also used in all salads. Remember, food is generally only served after 9pm as this is the earliest time Spaniards go out to eat. Also, restaurants can get boisterous as you know how they love life in this part of the world.

One restaurant I recommend is La Mesa Redonda which you can find on Calle Manuel de la Quintana 3, in Jerez. The food served here is fine cuisine in the Andalucian style. Filling and delicious food, washed down with a glass of crisp, chilled fino sherry is a heavenly experience and one I recommend.

So there you are - Jerez de la Frontera - not the biggest city in southern Spain but much more than a border town. Not too many tourist attractions but still a wonderful town/city to visit, in my opinion. I like the fact that the city isn't jam packed with attractions because sometimes I find this to be overwhelming. Beauty can be found in the historic centre and at the Flamenco festival and the wonderful horse school. The food and wine is excellent and so are the people of this city. They are warm, colourful, full of life and very welcoming. I am looking forward to visiting again in September but not the drive from Warsaw which is a mammoth task but one I am sure to encounter.

Summary: A picturesque town in Cadiz province.