A Place For Tourists and Turtles! (Kefalonia)

Member Name: Machair1

Product:	Kefalonia
Date:	29/09/09 (67 review reads)
Rating:

Advantages: Stunning scenery and an unspolit landscape

Disadvantages: None

It seems hard to imagine that less than 48 hours ago I was standing on the top of a mountain top village, Markopoulo in Kefalonia, watching the procession of church goers following the priest into the picturesque church. Sitting under an olive tree and watching the colours of the landscape change, as the sun emerged from a wispy slate grey canopy casting an amber ray of light, like a giant fan illuminating the layers of terraced sun baked earth beneath. The sound of the Greek Orthodox service resonating over the hillside was a perfect end to what had been a week of discovery as the island of Kefalonia gradually unfolded its delights to us.

The largest island in the Ionian chain this picturesque place was virtually decimated by the earthquake which struck in 1953, leaving only the far north untouched, and so everything you see on the island is what has been reborn since then. Don't think Cycladian blue and white houses, but a sun caressed terracotta which has the Venetian influence. Sometimes it is hard to remember you are in Greece as the landscape is lush and green, with mature trees and is very pretty, despite being a tourist destination which is growing in popularity.

We stayed in the south of the island in a little sleepy village called Katelios, and our studios were situated away from the sea front at the edge of where the old town meets the new. A few minutes stroll and you were submerged in Greek life, amongst the orange groves, whilst towards the beach were the sleepy tavernas and the quiet waterfront.

We took a book with us from the local library called "Kefalonia" by Brian and Eileen Anderson, which is a simple but comprehensive guide to the island, and what it has to offer. It is a Landmark Visitors Guide and certainly a good place to start.

Hubby and I are a couple who seek solitude and peace on holiday, and a chance to immerse ourselves in the culture of the place, so for us it was a very good choice. I know from my coach transfer that many do not think too carefully about their holidays, but for us we see travel as an adventure, preferring not to seek out 5 star luxury, but to instead enjoy the flavour and the feel of an experience, which more closely reflects the life around the place, which is untouched, or at least not spoilt, by tourism. One lady on our coach explained that she stuck a pin in a brochure, and this revealed her destination, not for me I'm sure, but this time I think her pin landed somewhere she would have been delighted to visit.

One of the fundamental things to remember in Kefalonia is that trees and lush vegetation could never thrive without rainfall, and even in September you are taking a gamble if you are a sun worshipper, think very carefully. We had 4 beautiful days with 25 degrees and unbroken sunshine, followed by 24 hours of solid thunder and lightening, with torrential rainfall which was unbroken by not even the slightest hint of summer.

Walking along the beach between Katelios and Kamina which stretches for miles, the deserted sprinkling of sun beds told a tale, in fact I could have been in The Outer Hebrides with the wind lashing the rocks and the crashing waves, it made me feel as if I had come home!

So with an open mind and a sense of adventure this island is waiting to be discovered.
Only 3 hours from the United Kingdom it's a short hop to the airport at Kefalinia from Gatwick. Many regional airports also fly to the island too.

The island is dominated by the highest peak Mount Ainos which towers over the island to a height of 1268 metres. The roads are winding and the bus service patchy, so if you hire a car just be careful. The hairpin bends are treacherous and care is needed at these as oncoming traffic, especially coaches and trucks, will need to be over your side as they sweep round the bends. Having said this it is quiet off the main routes, and the views are breathtaking. Petrol is a little more expensive than the UK and very few garages accept credit cards, so if you are planning to do a lot of driving you will need Euros in cash at many service areas.

My overall impression of the island is one of admiration. Yes tourism is developing, but not at such a rate that the natural lives are being changed. You don't see the signs of development as you do in Cyprus, but it is in progress, and new builds are emerging all the time, but still the place keeps its Greek ambience, and its natural beauty. Flights are only direct to the UK between May and October, so the winter involves an arduous journey via Athens, so this keeps the island serene in the winter and gives it time to breathe.

The sights not to miss are certainly a trip to Fiskardo in the north where the quayside is littered with the nautical tablecloths of tavernas, and where yachts dance on the water, illuminating the harbour with their bright sails which dazzle against an azure blue. Here it is time to sit and people watch, or maybe sample a delicious ice cream from the home made parlours. This picture postcard scene is an ideal spot to sit, and watch and on a sunny day it is certainly the place to be seen.

The island makes some delicious wine and although Greek wine has a less than famous reputation this is certainly worth trying. Robola is the main variety, and it is possible to visit the vineyard and to taste some of the main wines they produce.

There are some spectacular caves to visit including the one at Melissani where a boat takes you to explore the underground lake. These caves, though spectacular are not some of the best I have been to, and certainly though interesting, are to be admired but not necessarily to be recommended as "must see" spots on the island.

Myrtos Beach is a photo stop on the island for the many coach trips and this beach is the one so often seen in photographs. Nestling at the bottom of a very winding and steep approach road this is impressive, though mostly shingle, and has the compliment of beach loungers, so often seen on spots like these.

Assos is a delightful place to visit with its old castle and its shaded quayside tavernas. Lassi and Gialos have golden sandy beaches, and a day trip to the nearby island of Ithaka is possible.

The capital Argostoli is well worth a visit, if not just for the possibility of seeing turtles in the bay as the fishermen bring in their early morning catch.

No for me the real place is not at these spots, but just seen by walking through the many sleepy villages which are littered all over the island like confetti. Here life goes on as it always has done, with chickens seeking shade under the giant wings of olive trees, and the ripening lemons sitting proud on the citrus trees waiting for the autumn rains to turn the groves into a cascade of yellow and orange. Around every corner a cat sits in the sunshine, or a sheep or goat with a bell round its neck clanging and ringing as it wanders around a sleepy field nibbling on grass.

The turtles nest on the beaches and this area is famous for the Loggerhead, an endangered species. The females crawl onto the shore at night to bury their eggs which sit and incubate for 6 to 8 weeks. The constant war between humans and these creatures is so apparent. The need to fulfil the tourists requirements with loungers and umbrellas, versus the need to protect these beaches, not allowing them to be compacted with sand, but letting it sit like icing sugar so that the turtles can do what they have done for eternity- lay their eggs. The beaches have any nests identified with wooden tepi like structures over them, and it is really important not to block the channel between these and the beach by building sand castles and not destroying them afterwards, as otherwise the little turtles never reach the shoreline, but fall from the so carefully sculpted turrets into the moats below.

Many people associate the island with the film "Captain Corelli's Mandolin" and this was certainly very important to the island and its popularity, but you have to look beyond this image to appreciate all the many colours and shades which make up this island. It is friendly and welcoming, and it is only just in its infancy as regards development.

So yes only 48 hours ago I sat looking over the landscapes of Kefalonia from the vantage point high in the hills above Katelios, and thought to myself this was the perfect destination to have brought hubby to celebrate turning 50. It has just the right balance between nature and tourism, but I wonder for how much longer?

This review is also published on Ciao by myself under my username there of Violet1278.

Summary: Somewhere to escape the pressures of life and to unwind.