An emerald necklace in the calm waters of the adriatic (Kornati National Park (Croatia))

Member Name: Praskipark

Product:	Kornati National Park (Croatia)
Date:	20/04/09 (220 review reads)
Rating:

Advantages: Beauty, peace, tranquility - a chance to chill out

Disadvantages: Not a good choice if you don't like sailing

I think I have probably said how beautiful Croatia is as a country many times and I apologise for repeating myself but looking at the coastline I can understand why the Turks and Venetians have tried many times throughout history to steal this territory. I don't know why I think it is more stunning than other countries I have visited whether it is the colour of the calm azure waters or the moodiness of its mountains. I don't know, but there is definitely something very special about its islands and one set of islands that stands out above the rest is Kornati National Park.

The best view of these islands is from a window in a plane when you are flying into Dubrovnik airport. On a clear day you can see the whole stretch of 89 islands. They are like a necklace of emerald stones, starkly beautiful, shining against the deep blue of the Adriatic. I have never seen anything quite like it in the rest of Europe.

The islands were designated a National Park in 1980 and the only way to visit this paradise is by boat. The terrain consists of rocky strips of land and the islands inhabitants have struggled to make a living so they are sparsely populated. The islands are very popular with day trippers, sailors and stressed out city dwellers looking to chill out.

There are three ways to explore these islands and they are; a) day trip by boat from Murter, Sibenik or Zadar. In the summer, boats are authorised to take visitors to the National Park and they will be lined up on the waterfront of these three towns. A ltttle advice - always ask to see a map and to make sure that the tour operators do include a visit to the park.

b) Another way and the most exciting is to hire your own yacht which is what we did. The waters of Croatia are very calm and perfect for beginners.
Before you sail remember to check the local guidelines with the Association of Nautical Tourism and make sure you have all the necessary paperwork eg. third party insurance, list of crew and any passengers and obviously papers to show that you are authorised to sail the boat . It would be wise to check that the boat is seaworthy also. Better to be safe than sorry!

c) You can also charter a skipper and there are reputable operators that have established businesses throughout Croatia - Sunsail and Cosmos Yachting. I will leave links at the end of the review. The good thing about this is that the skipper will know the waters and if you are lucky may even cook for you.

So where are these islands?

The National Park is located about seven nautical miles west of Murter and15 nautical miles from Zadar and Sibenik which are of course on the Dalmation Coast. So now you have your bearings let's explore these islands - should we?

Let's start with the island and town of Murter. The harbour in Murter is the main starting point for trips into the National Park. Many ex Kornatari (ex- islanders) have re-located to Murter from the more primitive Kornati islands due to the fact that they were unable to eke out a living from the land they purchased in the 19th century. The island is very sheltered and you can generally guarantee good weather making it a popular starting point for novice or inexperienced sailors. There are three marinas on the island - one at Betina, Jezera and one in Murter town which is quite a large town in the north of the island.

A fifteen minute walk will take you through olive groves to the west of the island which is a pleasant trek. Here you will find lots of pebbly coves and small beaches which are ideal for swimming. From some of the coves on the western side you will be able to see the stretch of the other islands and when I visited I saw some amazing sunsets. July and August is very busy with day trippers but I think gives the place a bit of character. The good thing about Murter is that all development is low key and there are no ugly concrete complexes.

Lavsa
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There isn't a lot to say about the island of Lavsa except that when you visit the island you will know why you are there. It is so stunningly beautiful. It's position, sheltered sandy coves and protected bay make it a popular destination with the yachting fraternity. It's just great to stop off and idle the afternoon, swimming and basking in the sunshine.

Kornat
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This is the largest island in the National Park. Kornat is just 25 kilometres long and 2.5 kilometres wide. Seagulls and dry stone walls have stayed in my memory regarding this island. I was fascinated by the strings of stone rock walls which I guess where made by shepherds and farmers to protect their pastures and meadows. The sea here is a wonderful shade of blue and teemimg with fish hence the squawking and jabbering of seagulls. Sprinkled amongst its old stone houses are a few restaurants, a 6th century Byzantine lookout tower and a very tiny church.

Mana
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On the island of Mana you will find a ruined village but it is in fact not a real settlement. It is a movie set built for the 1950's movie, The Cruel Sea. The Kornati islands are famous for their steep, overhanging cliffs which are known as 'crowns'. These vertical cliffs facing out to sea are the sides of a large tectonic rift that stretches from Istria to South Dalmatia. The longest crown is actually on the island of Mana and it is a spectacular sight to see when the Adriatic swell crashes against these cliffs.

To look at, Mana has the empty desert look yet, the island abounds in plant and animal life. There are meant to be over 300 plant varieties on this island and lots of small creatures like rodents, snakes, lizards and wild sheep everywhere. Apart from the noisy seagulls I did notice the odd kestrel and buzzard flying high in the sky which are always fascinating to watch.

Piskera
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Piskera is an island with a discernible Roman legacy. There was once a large village here, though all that is left nowadays is a ruined shell of this settlement and an old church. The marina on Piskera is one of the most developed and the island has one of the deepest 'crowns.' Close to the marina there is a grocery shop and this is one of the very few places were you can buy provisions such as food and drinks out of the main holiday season.

Katina
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At the northern tip of this island, the Mala Proversa waterway seperates the Kornatis from Dugi Otok on the mainland. In the middle of this channel lie the remains of an ancient villa, dating back to a time when the islands were a fashionable holiday resort for wealthy Romans.

Restaurants
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Spread throughout the islands are around 20 - 25 restaurants. They are very simple and usually the menu will consist of seafood or lamb. In summer there are a number of local entrepreneurs who will turn their stone cottages, some with jetties, into restaurants. They offer top rate seafood dishes to passing sailors.

Accommodation
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You can anchor your boat in the Kornati Park and there are 16 bays allowed for this purpose. It's a wonderful experience to lie on deck and look up at a sky that is so heavy with stars you think it will burst open with light. You can smell the salt from the sea and there is always a cooling breeze. I have never ever experienced such a sense of peace and tranquility than on these islands. It is a fantastic experience.

There are a number of rustic houses on the islands that are rented out to visitors and you can arrange for supplies to be dropped off. Information is available in the tourist office in Murter.

If you have ever fancied living on your very own desert island for a short time it can be arranged. You can be Robinson Crusoe and hire your own private island. Without electricity or running water, your only human contact will be the supply boat that drops by every few days. As long as I had enough supply of beer this would be perfect for me because I have lived without electricity and running water on the land in Portugal before and it doesn't bother me. There I used to cool the beer in the stream but we did have a vehicle to go out for extra supplies. You wouldn't be able to do that in most of the Kornati islands.

So if you love sailing, swimming in crystal clear waters, wild deserted hills, crashing waves and vertical cliffs, skies filled with stars, peace, tranquility, excellent seafood and Kornati cuisine - then the Kornati islands are an ideal destination.

These islands made an an unforgettable impression on me - they are so remarkable and haven't changed for centuries. The Kurnatari people live a very simple life. They are gracious and good natured and will always make a visitor welcome. A visit to the Kornati National Park is a geat cure for the everyday stresses of our hectic lifestyles. You will never witness such beauty as these islands - trust me - they are absolutely amazing.


http://www.activityyachting.com/croatia/day_saili ng.htm - link to hire yachts

Association of Nautical Tourism, Bulevar Oslobodenja 23, 51000 Rijeka.

Links for hiring boats with a skipper - www.adriaticholidaysonline.com
www.sunsail.com
www.cosmosyachting.com

Weather Forecasts - remember when out sailing to always check the weather on your VHF radio. For Dubrovnik the requency is73, for Split, 67

Summary: Croatia's most beautiful archipelago