Dumplings and Dragons (Krakow)

Member Name: Puggers

Product:	Krakow
Date:	11/06/09 (113 review reads)
Rating:

Advantages: Something for everyone, possibly Poland's most welcoming, attractive city.

Disadvantages: Bargains aren't quite what they were.

With flights coming in from all over Britain and the rest of Europe, Kraków is one of Poland's most accessible cities, and almost certainly its most welcoming. The surge of popularity the last decade or so has seen, however, has brought influxes both good and bad. On the positive side, the flow of tourists in the city has seen supply more than meet demand, resulting in a wealth of accommodation and entertainment options, and a varied, cosmopolitan cuisine that only the capital, Warsaw, can really rival.

The flip-side of this has been the arrival of hordes of stag-parties looking to make the most of favourable money-to-inebriation exchange rates. Those arriving in search only of Poland's celebrated resources of beer, vodka and beautiful women (of which there is much of each), however, miss out on one of the richest, most attractive cities in Europe, bearing comparison with the likes of Paris and Tallinn.


+ + + + + + + + + + Kraków's Place in History + + + + + + + + + + + +

Poland's capital from 1038 to 1596, Krakow (or Cracow, anglicised) shows off proudly all the remnants of its days as a seat of royalty. The Old Town (Stare Miasto) at the centre of the city, surrounded by a ring of greenery, contains these most picture-perfect attractions, from St Florian's Gate at its northernmost end to the lair of the fearsome Smok Wawelski, the dragon of Kraków (who was vanquished by Krakus, the supposed founder of the city) at the southern apex. Above it all, Wawel Castle overlooks the bend of the Wisla (Vistula) river, which winds south-north through Poland, cutting through Kraków, Warsaw and Torun, amongst others, en route to the Baltic Sea.

More recent events have of course been a darker, bleaker part of the history and the city and the surrounding area. The remains of Oswiecim Detention Camp, better known by its German name, Auschwitz, lie not far to the west, and visits to the site feature on many Kraków itineraries. The scars inflicted by the Second World War are also evident within the city, in the former Jewish ghetto in the Kazimierz district, south of the centre.


+ + + + + + + + + + Orientation + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + +

For most visitors, the Old Town and the sights along the Royal Road which runs through it are the base and focal point of the stay. If you arrive by bus or train, the walls of the Stare Miasto are less than five minutes' walk to the south-west, if you can navigate through the new shopping centre which has swallowed up the railway terminus. Pope John-Paul II Airport is seven miles west of the centre; a short hop by taxi (expect to pay 20-30 zlotych) or train, taking around fifteen minutes.

If you happen to be leaving the city, trains depart from the central station for cities across Poland and a number of international destinations. The capital, Warsaw, is a two-and-a-half/three hour journey to the north, whilst the mountain resort of Zakopane, surrounded by the dramatic scenery of the Tatra Mountains, is two hours away to the south, and if you've the time, makes a refreshing change from the city. The bus is slightly quicker than the meandering train heading south; the stations are next to each other in both Kraków and Zakopane.

The Market Square (Rynek Glowny) is the heart of both the Old Town and the city of Kraków at large. One of the widest squares in Europe, it is a striking space, dominated by the Cloth Hall (Sukiennice), an imposing building at its centre which now only seems to trade in hit-and-miss tourist souvenirs inside. The Basilica likewise is an impressive structure overlooking the square, and the Rynek is lined with all manner of bars and restaurants which exhale in a cloud of tables and chairs across it come the summer months.


+ + + + + + + + + + + + Wawel Hill + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + +

The Royal Road splits the Old Town, running north-south, leading from the Market Square to Wawel Hill and its stunning castle. Overlooking the Wisla River, Wawel Hill was the seat of the Polish kings and queens for years, and many are buried here. The castle is open from 9:30, although on Mondays many sections are closed (the Treasury, Armoury and "Lost Wawel" areas are free entry during the summer months, though), and offers a chance to explore the innards of these great monuments. However, for the tight-fisted and/or short of time, one can get a good impression of the scale and majesty of the place exploring the walkways and courtyards that are open to all.

Being something of a sprawling complex, there is no ticket that gains entrance to the castle as a whole; rather, each of the areas and attractions on Wawel Hill requires its own admission fee. Tickets cost from 3 zl for the Dragon's Den to 24 zl for the Royal Private Apartments; although the latter includes the compulsory guide. If you wanted to see everything, the cost would of course mount up - however, there's a lot to get round (about a dozen attractions, including those within the cathedral), and the system will work to your advantage if you decide just to visit a few of them.

Prices are generally a little lower during the winter season - entry to the State Rooms, for instance, falls from 17 zl to 14 zl from November to April. If you're a student or a teacher, reduced rates are available, and if you happen to be either under seven or a holder of The Order of the White Eagle (bonus points if you're both ...), admission to all attractions is free.

There's plenty here that everyone should enjoy something - and the views are both excellent and free. For those with children, the Dragon's Den, where the fabled Smok Wawelski is said to have lurked, will appeal - and one can meet a less dangerous, more metallic, but still fire-breathing version of the dragon at the bottom. You might want to save this one for last, as the exploration of the grotto is a one-way trip that takes you from Wawel Hill and deposits you down by the river.


+ + + + + + + + Piwo i Pierogi; Filling One's Stomach + + + + + + + + +

As mentioned at the outset, Kraków offers diversity and quality in its dining options like few, if any, other places in Poland. Wherever your tastes lie, you'll find attractive restaurants and cafes to satisfy them in the Old Town and the surrounding City Centre. There are the usual Italians (which the Poles tend to do rather well) and a scattering of Mexicans - but you'll also find more unusual cuisine, including the ever-elusive Indian. Alongside this, of course, you'll come across Polish eateries that will cater for every budget.

Although it's near-impossible to exhaust the possibilities the centre of the city offers, a visit to the Kazimierz district offers a chance to explore a different side of Kraków. A run-down, dilapidated part of the city until recently, it is still a much less polished neighbourhood than the Old Town, but has a low-key charm quite of its own. Eating and drinking options are plentiful here as elsewhere, and are likely to offer better value than those around the Market Square. Much of the appeal of Kazimierz is to be found in exploring at leisure without following a particular itinerary; find food and drink in the same manner.

At the lower end of this price-spectrum, Milk Bars (Bar Mleczny) are a canteen-style arrangement, offering simple, tasty (and cheap) eats. Most of these are likely to be found outside the Old Town, where more touristy options prevail. There are so many decent restaurants in the city, I would hesitate to recommend based on my limited samplings, but for the first-time visitor, it's worth trying Zurek (a sour soup), Pierogi (filled dumplings, in a variety of flavours) and Bigos (a tasty, filling sausage & sauerkraut dish). Make sure to give Smalec a try; a dish of mixed onions and lard that tastes a lot better than it sounds!

In terms of drinking, Irish Mbassy has a good reputation, and manages to carve out a good halfway-niche between being a heaving sports bar and offering some rather good food. Nic Nowego styles itself as a "modern" Irish pub, and is also well thought-of - again offering something more than the
average venue.


+ + + + + + + + + + + + Why Visit? + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + +

Dumplings and dragons, castles and flagons; years of history, glorious and tragic, the best beer in the world, rumour has it ...

Ahem. Excuse my dodgy poetry. The point (there is one!) is that Kraków really does have something to offer all visitors; and perhaps most attractively, it's all within easy walking distance. Poland has a lot going for it as a whole, and this city shows it off best - culture and history to rival any European city, and everything at a fraction of the cost of Euroland. The Zloty doesn't represent quite the value it used to - when I moved to Poland in 2006, it was at about six to the pound; now it's more like four - but this is still an attractive rate for a weak pound.

With the concentration camps, mountains and Wieliczka salt mines all relatively close to Kraków, there's enough here to comfortably fill an extended visit; even living in the country, I've been to neither the first nor last. That said, you needn't fill a stay with ticking off boxes on a tourist's itinerary. Great pleasure is to be found in taking a seat at one of the endless streetside bars which appear come warm weather, watching, drinking and relaxing. Whatever works for you, Kraków provides a rich, welcoming backdrop against which to do it; even the resident dragon is taking in visitors now.

Summary: The best of Poland, easier and cheaper to reach than ever.