Sabai dee! (Lao salutation) (Laos)

Member Name: WendyMacc

Product:	Laos
Date:	09/08/00 (88 review reads)
Rating:

Advantages: Sunset

Disadvantages: Boats

Our general impressions of Laos can be simply stated with "Wow".

Four days after leaving Chiang Mai, we arrive at our destination in Laos. Oh, but i dare not leave the journey, for we all know that's where all the action is! We crossed the border at Chiang Khong, Thailand after overstaying our visa one day (oops). Chiang Khong is a sleepy little border town that thrives on giant mekhong catfish and trade with neighboring China, Thailand, Burma. I fell in love with its quiet charm. We stayed the night to catch the morning ferry down the river. I woke at dawn to give alms (offerings) to the monks with the other residents of the town. The moks depend on the alms for their daily sustenance. It is usually in the form of freshly prepared rice and meat cooked in spices and wrapped in a banana leaf. They humbly accept the gift and offer a buddhist prayer of blessing in return. It's a wonderful tradition of humility, reciprocity, community, sharing, and sacredness that cultivates the spirit of the divine into your daily thoughts and actions.

All this said, I want to add that it did not detract from the experience that when I actually did offer my bits of food, they couldn't keep a straight face. The younger ones tried to suppress their giggling as the elder monk didn't hear their transgressions. They were too confused to offer me a prayer, but I think they got a kick out of it.

Once across the river in Huang Xai, Laos we were faced with our choice of transport down the river. Fast boat or slow boat?

Slow boat: a bit larger version of a wooden longtail, with two wood benches going down either side of the boat. These are your seats for two days. Packed to the brim with farang (tourists), villagers, bags of rice, cases of beer, and whatever else they can cram onto it. No bathroom. Bring your own food.

Fast boat: 8 hours. a small speedboat, usually packed with 6-8 passengers decked in lifejackets, motorcy
cle helmets and earplugs. Need I say more?

During our two day journey, we witnessed some of the most spectacular scenery we've encountered on our trip so far. This was best enjoyed sitting on the roof of the boat, the preferred seat by far for soaking in the fresh air and avoiding the crowd and smell below. We passed endless rolling green mountains on all sides and small villages of only 10 thatched huts and a handful of dirty, barefoot children in tattered clothes shouting "Sabai dee!!" from the shore. We stopped for the night in Pakben, a small logging and fishing village on the banks of the Mekong. Aching from the day's ride, we took a walk through the village and came upon a monastary on a hilltop. A surreal sound brought us to an old temple. Inside the tiny candlelit room, orange-robed monks chanted thier mantras. The sun was just falling behind the mountains. The view was unreal. A moment I will never forget.

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