L.ovely U.xurious X.hilarating O.verwhelming R.emarkable! Luxor. Egypt. (Luxor)

Member Name: GillMN

Product:	Luxor
Date:	08/05/09 (281 review reads)
Rating:

Advantages: Fascinating historical sites. Friendly helpful people.

Disadvantages: Heat. Noise. Bustle.

Being in Luxor is like walking into a vast museum which just happens to be situated in an oven. It is situated on the banks of the River Nile in Central Egypt.

Because of the rich agriculture provided by the annual flooding of the Nile there has been civilisation here for the last 4,000 years. Every age has left it's mark, from the Ancient Egyptian tombs and temples, the roman carvings and artefacts, the mediaeval mosque sites, up to the modern day tourist hotels. It's all there side by side and absolutely stunning in it's mixtures and history.

Modern Luxor consists of three cities, Luxor, Karnak on the East bank and Thebes on the West Bank. Luxor is where most visitors stay and it is central to the other two places.

The population is around 150,000. I would say that a some stage during your stay you will meet about 20,000 of them trying to get you to go in their taxi, caleche (horse drawn carriage) or felucca (small sail boat). Whilst their demands for attention is persistent and pervasive, a firm "No Thankyou" (Laa Shukran!) will eventually be heeded and they will generally wish you a pleasant stay.

~~~Things to see~~~
*Karnak Temple.*
This is a huge site which actually houses 22 different temples of succeeding and (fairly competetive) Kings of Ancient Egypt. Each new dynasty tried to outdo the others with their particular temple to their Gods and Goddesses. Trying to take in who built what and why, was totally beyond me! It was amazing to see the vast sculptures and intricate carvings. We went to a Son-et-Lumiere show after sunset, that walks you round the site and picks out the main features with lights whilst telling you the history. I found this the best way to see the temple and the commentary was lucid and at times amusing. We finished at the huge sacred lake and had a well earned rest.

*Luxor Temple.*
Situated on the Corniche (Main road along the Nile waterfront) this temple is bang in the centre of Luxor, you would have to be blind to miss it. The ruins house a mosque and a church built over them by later generations. The sculptures and layout is breathtaking. Built by Amenophis III, he also constructed a road lined with hundreds of small sphinxes to connect his temple with the one at Karnak. That road is still in good repair and parts of it can still be followed for a more peaceful walk away from traffic.

*The mummification museum.*
Situated under the corniche, opposite the Luxor temple.
I loved this little museum. It tells and shows you everything you might want to know about making mummies! (and some things you might not want to know!) The displays are fascinating and the exhibits are well notated in English as well as Arabic. The hooks that are used to pull the dead persons brain through his nose were pretty grisly to look at, they made my nose hurt just thinking about them.
There was one human mummy and quite a few mummified animals!
It's cool and quiet in there and a good place to be out of the bustle. The staff are helpful and answer questions with charm and friendliness.

*Luxor Museum*
A large modern building built on the Northern part of the Corniche.
This museum is a bit of a culture shock to those of us who are used to wandering around museums unmolested. Even inside the museum there are men trying to hassle you to buy or look or 'visit their mothers house for tea!'
I can't tell you much about what is in there because of the distractions. Many statues and artefacts from the temples and tombs, a lot of information about the layout of Thebes and about three dozen touting taxi drivers etc! That's all I can remember, sorry!

*The tombs of the West Bank*
The West Bank (Thebes) is home to the Valleys of the Kings, Queens, Nobles and Hatshetput's fabulous temple. Each valley deserves it's own review. I can't do justice to them in this overview of Luxor. I have reviewed the Valley of the Queens and will get around to the others eventually!
I'll just say it would be crazy to come to Luxor and not visit these places, and leave it at that for now. An organised tour is the best option, then you can come back by taxi to parts you might want to spend more time exploring.

I also reccommend,
The Brooke Animal shelter, a must see for animal lovers.
The Market (souk). Go to the real one for Egyptians rather than the tourist one behind Luxor temple.
Banana Island, a nice boat trip and a bit of peace.
The papyrus museum. See how papyrus is harvested and made.
The Collossi of Memnon. Incongrously sat in the middle of fields!

There is so much to see here it would be a huge task to list them all.

*Travelling around Luxor.*
Taxis.
Taxis are plentiful, you can't avoid them. You can only hope, with the crazy driving, that they avoid you. Having said that, I didn't see any accidents or even minor bumps. I suppose if everybody drives like a lunatic every lunatic learns how to avoid the others! Negotiate your fare before you get in. Be clear about whether you are talking about each person or the whole party. Be clear about whether you are talking about English or Egyptian Pounds and be very clear about where you want to go. Resist excursions to the taxi driver's Uncle Achmed's shop. Or Cousin Fatima's wedding or Brother Walid's restaurant. The taxi driver will get a cut of everything you spend wherever he manages to divert you to. Backsheesh rules in this city! Taxis are cheap and convenient. You can hire taxi drivers by the day if you want to get around a few sites and they can be invaluable and amusing if you get a good one.

*Horse drawn cabs. (Caleches)*
There are almost as many of these as there are taxis! All of the above advice applies. Plus...look at your horse before you get in. If it is healthy and sleek then you know the animal is loved and well cared for. If the animal is dusty, skinny and looks tired, avoid that caleche because the poor creature is almost certainly being overworked and underfed. Some caleche drivers, not all, are notorious for neglecting and abusing their horses despite the work of the Brooke animal charity. Try to use a Caleche where you are happy about the state of the horse. Then you can enjoy your journey with a clear conscience.
Like the taxis, the caleche is cheap and it's a lovely way to see the city.

*Mini Buses*
These are always blue and white and plentiful. The locals use them and they don't seem to have an upper limit on how many can be carried. So be prepared for an interesting ride. They are a great way to meet the locals. They are incredibly cheap but you have to know what you are doing because of course, the destinations are written in Arabic. You might end up anywhere in the city if you get in the wrong one!

*Feluccas*
These pretty little sail boats can be hired by the day or hour and are a lovely way to spend time on the River Nile. It is so quiet and peaceful on a Felucca and the owners are very skilled in their handling of the boats. For about £10.00 a group of you can spend the afternoon on the river and for a little extra the owner will bring a picnic for you. Just ask!

Motor boats.
Same price as the Feluccas but not as quiet obviously!

*Ferry*
The ferry costs about 20p to cross to the West Bank and it is quite an experience! Join the locals and their animals too! It is good manners, but not obligatory for the women to sit with the other women and the men to all sit together. The kids are great fun and are easily beguiled by sweets from your pockets! Don't try to get off quickly because you will almost certainly lose in the big machismo thing the Egyptian Men have about getting off first! It's odd but very funny to watch! Ferries run until very late.

*Walking*
Everywhere on the East bank is reachable by foot. However, it is a very hot place to walk around in and you will waste a lot of time being hassled. I don't mind the constant offers of 'this' or 'that', but they do take your time and attention from what you are trying to do or see. Walking alone as a woman is safe enough, you won't come to any harm, but the constant attention and importuning can be anxiety provoking or irritating if you are not used to it. I was alone in Luxor a few years ago and hired a guide/bodyguard to make life easier for me. He was an absolute gem and just arranged things for the Weird English Woman.
So you can walk, but it is often easier and makes better use of your time, not to.

*Eating out*
Hundreds of places offer food and drink. Most of it is very cheap and appetising. An evening meal for two with drinks can cost anything from £5.00 to £50.00! Many hotels offer voucher books. Our hotel offered 6 four course meals for £35.00 which is unbeatable value if you don't want to explore all the other places to eat.
My favourite places were the restaurants on the riverside, there are about ten along the Corniche.
Don't miss visiting 'Africa' on the West Bank, the rooftop venue gives stunning views of the River Nile and the menu is of fabulous traditional Egyptian food and very cheap! Just don't expect to get your food in any order or to know exactly which dish you are eating. I am sure we got given a few extra which were 'on the house'! It was the best meal we had in Luxor.

*Shopping*
Last but not least. Shopping in Luxor is either a dream or a nightmare depending on your personality.
Some tips! (not that I could come close to Duncan's amazing review on haggling!)
Expect to pay about one third of the first price offered.
Don't get excited about anything!
Perfect the art of looking disdainfully at things, or bored.
Accept the tea you are offered, it is polite and doesn't mean you have to buy anything. It tastes good too, especially the acacia tea.
Don't buy on your first day, you will pay more than you need because you probably haven't got the hang of it yet.
You will eventually find yourself arguing over ten pence or something ridiculous like that. You are on Holiday, give in gracefully!

Best buys are Egyptian cotton sheets and towels, clothes, inlaid boxes, alabaster, papyrus paintings. (make sure it is papyrus and not banana leaf.)
Gold but not Silver. I had a large opal replaced in an antique ring for £6.00! I was absolutely thrilled, so it might be worth your while taking any jewellery you want mending with you! (Jack the Jeweller, up a side street, opposite the St George Hotel!) Just say Gill sent you! :o)

Haggle as though your Grandma's life depended on it! You won't upset anyone or be allowed to cheat anyone. The vendors know exactly what they are doing and will stop when they can't make a profit.
Above all, enjoy yourself! The people of Luxor generally are helpful, friendly human beings who are just trying to make a living.

I won't go on any more. I wish there was a review available to discuss attitudes to single women in Luxor and how those single women often don't help the situation but that is a whole other debate!

Thanks for reading.

If you ever get a chance to visit Luxor, grab it with both hands! It is amazing, vibrant, ancient, modern but mostly an endlessly fascinating place to be.

Summary: Immerse yourself in a place where the Ancient and Modern Worlds co-exist.