Gateway to Bahrain (Manama)

Member Name: OllieCourts

Product:	Manama
Date:	20/07/09 (39 review reads)
Rating:

Advantages: Safe, interesting, relaxing

Disadvantages: Not a huge variety of things to do. Can be dirty.

Within 500 years, Manama has been ruled by the Portuguese, the Persians, and the Al Khalifa family, the current ruling family of Bahrain. I feel all have left their mark on what is the modern day capital of Bahrain.

Located in the north-eastern part of the island, it will be the first proper city you see once you land at Bahrain International Airport. Although the airport is on the island of Al-Muharraq, a causeway links the two, so it is only a 20 minute drive from the airport. It has a population of around 150,000, but I'm unaware of where the boundaries of Manama and Seef are so it's difficult to say how densely populated it is.
The land in Bahrain is predominantly flat, so the skyline is dominated by Manama's up and coming economy centre. Architectural beauties such as the twin towers of the World Trade Centre and the Almoayyed Tower wouldn't look out of place in Dubai, so it does look impressive, especially at night with the variety of lights. Some buildings still maintain having a searchlight on top though in their search for Allah! They say that a third of the worlds cranes are currently in the Middle East, and the rest of Manama's skyline would support this. Building work is extensive in the city. Otherwise the appearance of Manama is varied. Traditional ex-pat homes along with Arabic designs make it an interesting place, with the levels of cleanliness varying among the different districts. Don't be too surprised to see rubbish and stray cats in one street, only for the next to be perfect.

Bahraini's seem to spend a lot of time either shopping or watching sport, with good malls located in the city, although you have to go to Seef for the best mall, which is only next door. For the sport side of the culture, Manama has 3 sides participating in the Bahraini Premier League, a relatively poor league, but the fans are as passionate as ever. Cricket is being played increasingly as well. The overall culture of Manama I feel is one of tolerance and being open minded to Western cultures along with maintaining their own identity. Manama ports the US Navy's 5th Fleet, and Juffair especially has adapted to suit them, so in some places be prepared for strong American customs!

Alcohol remains legal in Manama, and therefore it is the centre of the countries social life, with Arabs from neighbouring countries visiting for their weekend to drink and eat bacon. This also allows a nice Western feel to the city as you get a substantial array of western bars along with fast food restuarants in nearby Juffair such as McDonalds or Burger King. There are more upmarket restuarants however such as Cafe Italia and Mirai Sushi, both very smart and frequently visited by celebrities and the royal family. A new pedestrianised section by the former Prince's residence also has many very good restuarants, although I forget what the area is called. Overall, the options for eating out in Manama are nice and varied, although there are many supermarkets if you prefer to stay in.

I recommend hiring a car for Bahrain, as Manama is undergoing a huge restoration project in its roads. Some still remain dirt tracks, but most are of high quality and well co-ordinated, allowing for relatively easy driving, but bear in mind the locals aren't the most patient! There are bus routes linking the various cities for as little as 200 fils, but they do get busy and can be slow, so I find it more economical to just rent a car. I managed to rent a 4x4 for as little as £10 a day last time, although the company was a bit dodgy! taxi's are the best bet if you don't fancy driving. They are now metered by law, and the drivers are always very kind. On Christmas day our cabbie told us how his wife was from Essex and insisted the journey was free as if we had a mutual friend!

When exploring the city, the best sights are generally the quintessential Arabic sights. The Bahraini Royal Palace is gorgeous and next door is the city's main draw. Al Fateh Mosque, Bahrain's largest and one of the worlds largest, allows over 7000 worshippers in at one time. It has the largest fibre glass roof in the world and is a thing of pure beauty. Tours were free the last time we visited, although it is closed to tourists on Bahraini weekends and holidays. Definitely worth a visit, regardless of whether you're interested in Islam. if not, head to Manama souq, to be surrounded by millions of pounds worth of gold and traditional items. A labyrinth of stalls make it enjoyable to walk around, even if you don't wish to purchase anything, and a police presence makes it very safe. A sight worth seeing.
Local hotels are generally of a good quality, mainly with Asian staff who like to help, and they know many local wonders to fill your day.

To summarise, Manama is a mixed city. Clean yet dirty, beautiful yet scruffy, and Arabic yet Western. There isn't bundles to do like New York or Paris, but it's a nice, safe introduction to both Bahrain and the Middle East, and worth a visit if not just to say you've been. Temperatures can reach around 55 celsius in ambience though, so pick your time wisely!

Summary: You'll either love it or hate it.