A melting pot of culture, music, colour, food and football (Marseille)

Member Name: Praskipark

Product:	Marseille
Date:	17/08/09 (152 review reads)
Rating:

Advantages: A city that is full of life

Disadvantages: None for me but some might be a bit trepidatious

Looking back at my reviews I have realised that I have only written one review about France. Before I moved to Poland two years ago I spent two years living and working in France. As usual I didn't stay put in one place. I lived in three regions of France; Midi Pyrenees, Dordogne and Provence/Cote D'Azur - all very interesting and beautiful in their own ways.

However, I do have one favourite region - Provence/Cote D'Azur and one favourite city - Marseille. A lot of people seem to worry unduly when they are making a trip to Marseille. In fact I have had a phone call this week from a friend worried sick because his parents are going on their own for a vacation. Why anyone should be more worried about walking around the oldest city in France, is beyond me. It is no different than any other major city. As long as you don't walk around with your money bag tied to your hip and your Rolex shining brightly on your wrist, you will be fine.

Joking apart, Marseille is a city full of life. When those Greek visitors came for a visit over 2,000 years ago they knew they were on to a winner with its stunning location facing out to the ocean and surrounded by a backdrop of chalky cliffs and rambling hills. That was a long time ago and the city has had no sleep since that day - it is such a melting pot of culture and a hub of markets, life, noise, music, fun and football.

There are many reasons why I love this city; the old port with its small boats, yachts and terraced cafes, the new port with its giant cranes loading containers on to steel tankers, the markets with a kaleidoscope of colour and shapes, the noise of its people, always hustling, shouting rebelling, dancing, singing and cheering on their football team. I love the crazy sounds of ethnic music wafting through open windows in Le Panier, the oldest area of Marseille. Aromas are everywhere - fish, fish and more fish. This is the home of the fish stew that people struggle to pronounce properly - bouillabaisse - with it's evocative tastes of spices, herbs and tomato.

Oh, Marseille you are such a picturesque and vibrant city. Let's take a look into your world and see what else we can find.

I am going to start at the Old Port as I think this is the life and soul of the city. Most of the commercial traffic has moved over to the new port but the Vieux Port is where friends, family, strangers gather together alongside the quais chatting and drinking the days away. The atmosphere is always lively whatever time of day you visit. The boats in this part of the port are not your swanking million dollar yachts like the ones sitting in the bay of St Tropez. Most are small fishing boats, yachts and some pleasure boats. When it comes to festival time this is the area to be in. It is one of the liveliest places I have ever been to.

There are many small streets in the old town absolutely packed with fish restaurants and shops. If you like a good fish market then take a walk down to the bottom of the port, the Quai des Belge, where a bustling and noisy market is held every morning of the week. This is certainly a different kind of world and I suggest if you have a hangover then give it a miss.

The quais are very wide and a good place for a quiet morning stroll. Terrace cafes are dotted all along the quais and I often used you to spend mornings sketching in the shade with a coffee and an iced water.

Of course the old port has some fantastic architectural buildings - it isn't just boats and seafood restaurants. The old La Major Cathedral lies north of the old port near to the new docks. The domes of the cathedral are quite awesome to look at and can be seen from various angles of the port. The style is Romano-Byzantine and it was built in the middle of the eighteenth century. There is also a smaller, older cathedral strapped to its side which is Romanesque and was built in the eleventh century. At some time in the 19th century part of it was sliced off to make way for the new cathedral.

Half way down on the Quai Rive Neuve is 'Le Criee', the National theatre and Marseilles most famous theatre. Named after the old fish auction rooms where the theatre is now situated. I have visited the theatre a few times and always found the experience very enjoyable if a bit pretentious at times. My favourite shows were always cabaret as they were usually so kitch. I am always amazed how much the French really love this type of theatre. I have also seen a rendition of Macbeth which was quite amusing only because it was so over dramatic. Still, a very nice building and worth a night out.

I'll move on now before I get carried away.

At the north of the port, behind the city hall lies another favourite area of mine - Le Panier, one of the oldest quarters in Marseille. I love the tiny streets in this area and the fact that it is the home of many immigrants which bring exuberance and colour to the area. It's great fun walking around, listening to the colourful accents and taking in the different cultures. This is what I miss in Warsaw. As a capital city it is lacking the cosmopolitanism that Marseille has.

The main attraction and the heart of this old quarter is the Vieille Charite. This masterpiece of a building in pure baroque style was originally built to house Marseilles' poor. It was part of the town council's plan to clean up the streets of Marseille by hospitalising beggars and people who couldn't feed or clothe themselves. A charity organisation in the late 17th century commissioned the King's architect at the time to design a hospital for the poor. The architect, Pierre Puget had been brought up in the quarter as a child.

The feature that stands out the most of this building is the egg shaped dome which is part of the chapel located in the centre of the courtyard. The building became a National Heritage building in 1951 and since the late eighties has housed many an exhibition and cultural function.

Garde Hill towers behind the city of Marseille and in the early evening when the sky is still warm and hazy from the day's sun it is a magnificent sight to view. Not only is the hill an observation post, and a fortification it is also a place of worship and the gleaming gold statue of the Virgin Mary can be seen from every point of the city. The church of Notre Dame with its Romanesque exterior and Byzantine domes is the symbol of Marseille and the first image that always comes into my head whenever I think of the city.

The church was built in the 1850's and part is actually built into the rock that overlooks the city. As you can imagine the views from the top are tremendous as you can see far and wide.

Restoration work was just starting on the interior of the church before I moved away and having visited once since 2007 I was amazed at the multi coloured marbles used and the bronze and gold leaf work on the ceilings. Mosaics have been added and touched up and the whole interior is quite spectacular and a feast for the eyes.

It is free to walk around the church and it is open every day from 7 in the morning until 6.30 in the evening.

Palais Longchamp is a grand edifice and a very ostentatious building to say that originally it was built as a water tower. The city has had problems with water shortages throughout history especially in 1835 after an acute cholera epidemic. Shortly afterwards plans to build a 85 kilometre canal were passed but before this could be initiated a series of underground ducts and 18 aqueducts had to be made. The whole project covered ten years and the same architect who built Notre Dame de la Guard was commissioned to erect the remarkable palatial building that is now in place.

The design of the building is very evocative in the way it depicts fertility, growth and abundance all made available by the birth of the canal. Fountains, decorated columns and animal statues are representations of the beauty of life. In the former chapel a gallery and museum of Fine Art has been opened up and a Museum of Natural History. There is also a Botanical garden which I reallly liked to stroll around as it was very peaceful especially with the sound of water in the background. A small zoo is also worth a peek.

Apart from paintings there are two other things I collect - pottery and rugs. Marseille is a great city to buy both but especially pottery. There is a fabulous meseum located in the Chateau Pastre which is a fine 19th century house that overlooks the sea. The location in itself is a gem set in lush grounds between the rolling hills and deep blue ocean but the exterior and interior is also quite stunning. I particular love the facade of the house as it is a mixture of brick and soft sandstone depicting the era of the second Empire. Inside the decor is warm, rich and sumptious and the collections are a large assembly of faience pottery, ceramics and earthenware from the 17th and 18th century in Marseilles and Provence. It is one of the largest collections I have seen in this part of the world - covering fifteen hundred items. Pieces represent the major manufacturers of the era - names like Clerissy, Fauchier and Savvy to name a few. I found the displays interesting as I could see how individual the manufacturers were and how different styles developed, progressed and became more sophisticated as time moved on. A great place for learning just how deep Marseille's culture is.

I can't possibly introduce you to all of Marseille's highlights as there are too many. But I would like to take you out of the city to my husband's favourite haunt - Les Calanques

If you go drive out of the city centre for about ten or fifteen minutes you will soon find yourself in a beauty spot. This area, Calanques, reminds a bit of the Costa Brava. It is wild, rugged area and and and I love how the rock formations dive into the sea. The road winds round into small coves/creeks - hence the name calanques. These little hidden places are very pretty with a few houses, bars and cafes. People from Marseille come here at the weekends to relax. We used to spend Sundays here just eating, drinking , talking and swimming. I hope this 'bit' of Marseille never develops as it will be a tragedy.

After the village of Les Goudes the road disappears and even though there are more stunning coves and picturesque scenery this area is difficult to get to by car. By foot is the easiest option or even by boat. If you are feeling very brave - you could swim.

That's the artistic and creative part of the review over - now let me tell you a few basics and give you some tips!

Getting around

Driving around the city can be a nightmare as it gets very congested. I always walked or used the metro. The metro is easy to use and never really presented any problems but then I never travelled on it late at night. Buses are regular and fares can be integrated. A single ticket can be used on any combination of transport for one hour only. Day passes and books of tickets are available. This works out much cheaper.

Shopping

It really depends what you are looking for. If you want to take something home that is Provencal then look no further than Souleiado. This shop is situated on Rue Paradis at number 117 and sells clothes, fabrics, tableware and linen.

My favourite shops are usually to do with food and wine or pottery and art.

There is a fantastic deli on Rue Fontagne, G Bataille, that sells the most delicious cheeses and cold meats. The shop always has a lovely aroma of aromatic spices and actually, a great selection of wine.

What about a bakery? Everyone loves a bakery and there is no finer than Le Four des Navettes. This is the oldest bakery in Marseille and and is famous for the invention of a traditional biscuit called, a navette. A small biscuit, similar to a cookie, shaped like a boat, flavoured with orange blossom; delicious and so pretty to look at.

If you like ethnic clothes like I do there is Madame Zaza's. These designs are known outside Marseille in other parts of France. They are real fun to wear being creative in design, colourful and have a touch of playfulness.

One big tip - in the summer months all prices whether in the food shops or clothes shops will go up with a bang! Best times to visit are May/June or Sept/Oct.

Before I forget - here's a bit of kitsch which I love and do collect. Terracotta figures of fruit, vegetables and meat all hand made and enamelled in garish colours. They are sold in a shop called Faiencerie Figueres and they look so real you would think they were real. You can find the shop on 12 ave Lauzier. I bet they will bring a smile to your face.

I can't really go into hotel accommodation because I had no need to stay in a hotel living in the area but I do know from relatives that high season is a nightmare. If you are on a budget or if you haven't booked anywhere in advance then you will struggle to find accommodation. Even campsites will be full. Independent camping is discouraged as is sleeping on beaches.

Eating and Drinking

I can advise you on this. There aren't many budget restaurants in the city but I have found two that I really love. Pagnol is one of my favourite French writers and no one can describe Provence like he does. He was the master of description. Bar de la Marine is situated at number 15 Quai Rive-Neuve. The bar only serves lunches but the food is wholesome and delicious. It isn't so much the food that draws me to this bar but the setting of the bar itself. If you have read Pagnol's books you will recognise this bar.

Another reasonable priced establishment serving meals under 30 euros is Chez Madie. This is an exceptional place seving exceptional food. All the food is Provencale fare and my favourite dish is pieds et paquets, This is a succulent dish of lambs feet and stuffed sheep's stomach cooked in white wine. Another favourite dish, Daube, wild boar or beef marinated and simmered in red wine with garlic and herbs.

There is something else about Madie's house that is inviting - it is full of art work, some original pop art, all painted by Provencal artists.

If you really wanted to visit a Marseille institution and one of the best bouillabaisse restaurants then Le Miramar is the top restaurant. It is extremely expensive ranging from 50 - 60 euros per meal but it is worth it for the views of the old port from the terrace. Plus the fish stew is the best I have ever tasted. One for a special occasion I think.

So there you go - a trip down memory lane for me of somewhere I once lived and hopefully some tips for readers and travellers how to go on in Marseille. Don't believe all those stories about hanging on to your wallet. Marseille is no more dangerous or troublesome than any other major city. Just keep your wits about you and enjoy the colourful and boisterous world of the Marseillais and if you get time pop to the Stade Velodrome - a place of worship for French soccer fans.

Summary: A great place to live and visit