The Silent City (Mdina)

Member Name: ks.h

Product:	Mdina
Date:	28/08/02 (966 review reads)
Rating:

Advantages: A Medieval City in the heart of Malta, Stunning architecture , Great day out

Disadvantages: Gets a little crowded in summer

Mdina, also known as the Silent City, is a unique city, the ancient capital of Malta has been in existence as a fortified citadel since Arab times and there are few other cities that can boast a history so long or such an abundance of magnificent architecture. It is one of the few remaining medieval fortified cities in Europe and is built on a two hundred and thirteen metre high hill in the central region of Malta. The Island’s oldest city remained the capital of the Maltese Islands until 1568 when the Order of St. John took over the Islands and built Valletta, the present capital city.

The city is situated next to the town of Rabat; Howard Gardens and Mdina’s fortified walls separate Mdina and Rabat from each other. There are only two ways into Mdina either through Mdina Gate or Greek Gate, both situated on the south wall of the city and you approach these gates through Howard Gardens and over one of two bridges spanning the drained moat, which is now a popular area for local youngsters to play ball games.

Home to Malta’s nobility the city withstood a Turkish attack in 1565 and it was in Mdina, in 1798, that the Maltese conspired against the French and massacred the garrison. Heavily fortified, the city exuded an air of mystery, the reason for its unofficial name “Silent City” and the legacy of Mdina’s long history lives on in the narrow streets lined with imposing buildings and the majestic walls that once played such an important role in its defence and now serve as an ideal vantage point for panoramic views of the island.

There is a calming atmosphere as you walk along the narrow streets and passageways of this tiny city and you have the opportunity to view some of the best Norman and Baroque architecture on the island, several Palaces are situated here and most now serve as private homes. Stroll through the winding streets and visit Vihena Palace (just inside Mdina Gate) home to the National Museum
of Natural History housing a modest selection of fossils, insects, birds, fish and shells, entrance fee converts to about £1.20.

Next to Vihena Palace are the Dungeons and I would highly recommend a visit here, entrance fee converts to approximately £1.80 and the Dungeons contain many very lifelike waxwork models in realistic settings with background music, information boards and in a lot of cases taped stories of the events being depicted; I found these a little too lifelike at times and must admit to feeling a little eerie in the knowledge that a lot of the realistic scenes I was watching actually happened right where I was standing; it was money very well spent even if I did feel rather uncomfortable. Outside the Dungeons there is a set of stocks offering the opportunity to take photos of your companions.

If you head for St. Paul’s Square you will find the majestic baroque Cathedral dedicated to St. Paul, the twin towered Cathedral with three doors was built by Lorenzo Gafa and is widely considered to be his finest work. There are two 17th century cannons on either side of the main entrance of the Cathedral. The Cathedral has floor to ceiling gates made from what looks like about inch wide metal posts in front of the Lady Altar and main Altar, these gates are painted black and our guide told us the gates are actually made of gold that was painted black to protect them during World War II in case the Islands were invaded, although we don’t know if that story is actually true. Entrance to the Cathedral is free however if you wish you can pay to take the guided tour (approximately £1.20).

To the right of St. Paul’s Cathedral is Archbishop’s Square housing Archbishop’s Palace and the Cathedral Museum, entrance fee to the Museum converts to approximately £1.80, the Museum was built in the 18th century as a seminary for priests but now houses a splendid collection of works of art including woodcuts by Durer, eng
ravings by top European artists including Rembrant, Piransesi, Van Dyck and Goya, a magnificent coin collection, religious icons including silver statues, an ivory crucifix that belonged to Pope Pius VI, vestments, books as well as Punic and Roman artefacts. St Paul’s Square and Archbishop’s Square really run into one and this is the only open area inside the walls of Mdina.

It only takes a few hours to wander the streets of Mdina, it is such a tiny city and has a population of approximately three hundred and in the height of summer it does attract a lot of tourists, however it still remains a quiet city and the narrow streets give welcome shade from the sun.

On the whole Mdina is a pedestrian city, delivery vehicles for the few restaurants, cafés and small shops are only allowed to enter the city walls at certain times of the day and other than that the only vehicles allowed to enter are emergency vehicles and those belonging to inhabitants in specified areas.

Visiting Mdina is like travelling in a time capsule, transporting you to another era, tucked away in the narrow alleyways there are an abundance of churches and buildings of architectural interest as well as a few good restaurants and cafes, we chose to have a snack in one of the cafes behind St. Paul’s square, situated right on the bastion wall to the north of the city and as we sat enjoying our cool drink and apple pie we had tremendous views to the Grand Harbour at Valletta, Mosta Dome and the National Football Stadium and Craft Village at Ta’Qali.

If you travel to Mdina by car there are ample parking spaces on the Rabat side of Howard Gardens and Mdina/Rabat is well signposted from all the resorts in Malta however the number 80 bus runs regularly from Valletta to Rabat and the 81 bus to Dingli and 84 to Mtarfa from Valletta both go through Rabat, Mdina Gate is about five minutes walk from the bus stop.

No visit to Malta is complete with
out a visit to the Silent City, there is so much to see and while you’re in the area have a look around Rabat where you will find the Grotto and Catacombs of St Paul (where it is said he took shelter when he was shipwrecked on Malta) and of equal interest are the catacombs of St. Agatha.

I have used the conversion rate of 0.60 Maltese Lire equals £1.

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