The 'Bourne Identity (Melbourne)

Member Name: indiecater

Product:	Melbourne
Date:	09/08/02 (319 review reads)
Rating:

Advantages: Sporty And Spicy.

Disadvantages: Not So Posh.

Melbourne, in the state of Victoria, is Australia's second city and is home to over 3.5 million people. It has a concentrated city centre with a clutch of gleaming sky scrapers but is resolutely green in its approach to the environment. As well as a thriving inner city scene it also boasts the bohemian suburbs of St. Kilda and Richmond.

Melbourne sits on the Australian south coast which means that there are suburban beaches to be lapped up. Unfortunately the surf on offer pales in comparison to Sydney. What Melbourne lacks in beaches though, it more than makes up for in sport and the arts. Many of Australia's favourite television programs have their base in town such as 'The Secret Life Of Us' and 'Rove Live'. Melbourne is also the hotbed for Aussie Rules Football with several top teams based in the city.

Getting from the cities international Airport in Tullamarine is a nightmare if you are on a budget. Situated 22 km away, there is a complete absence of any form of public transport. The only options available are pricey privately run shuttles. At $13 dollars one way ($21 return) they only make economic sense if you are travelling alone. A better alternative is to take a taxi, which in itself is overpriced ($50 to St. Kilda!) but at least gets you to the door of your hostel.

As you descend on the city quarter several radical architectural designs are in evidence. Standing by the side of the airport road like enormous yellow chips that crisscross in an red Indians head gear style there is something interesting yet immediately disposable about the whole concept. The noise barriers that protect nearby residences are much more conventional if a little like a Blade Runner concept that ran out of money.

Like many other Australian cities the Melbourne’s heart is like a grid with parallel streets intermittently crossed by others running at right angles. This makes finding your way around relatively straig
ht forward. Most businesses are based in or around Collins Street while the shopping district has its base in the Bourke Street Mall. Outside of these main arteries there are plenty of dimly lit lanes that just ooze cool and give Melbourne something that Sydney central lacks.


ACCOMMODATION

Although there are plenty of places to stay in town a lot of travellers tend to end up in the beachside suburb of St. Kilda. As well as being jammed packed full of restaurants and coffee houses there is a huge range of budget accommodation available. The most recommended by both travel guides and travellers seems to be the Coffee Palace on Grey Street. The Oslo Hotel also gets good reports even if it resembles a St. Vincent De Paul drop-in centre from the outside.

We arrived in Melbourne in mid-winter (July!) which meant that there were quite a few accommodation deals to be had. Quite by chance (through the rough guide travel webpage to be precise) we happened upon an website called wotif.com that offered last minute accommodation deals. For $55 we scooped an apartment with the Easystay group in St. Kilda (Raglan Street) that slept up to 3 people. For this you got a kitchen, TV and separate bedroom with ensuite facilities. This worked out much cheaper than the cheapest hostel. The normal rate for the apartment was $109 per night so this was a major discount. Another site to check for similiar deals is quickbeds.com.

In the city the All Nations Hostel looks dreadful from the outside but has a reputation as a top party place. The Nunnery a little further out gets mixed reviews but is worth chancing. The Flinders Station Hostel looks much better. Its location, facilities and reasonable rates make it a great choice if you couldn't bothered tramming it St. Kilda.


TRANSPORT

It's easy to be overwhelmed by the transport infrastructure in the city at first. Trams are the predominant vehicle and once you get a han
dle on the r outes they are a great way to get around (if a little dangerous when you disembark). For $5.50 you can buy an unlimited day ticket which can also be used on the cities trains and buses. Even if you don't make use of the suburban trams the free city circle tram line is brilliant for getting your bearings when you first arrive in town. Balaclava station is the suburban train we used most to get from our accommodation to town. Trains were regular (at least one every 20 minutes). By walking a little further to St. Kilda Road we could catch the 96 tram all the way to the city centre.


ATTRACTIONS

You can sense that Melbourne has the tourist in mind when it lays on a free tram that shuttles around the city centre. These trams are regular too, one skirts in each direction every 10 minutes. The Circle Trams are distinctive because they belong to a forgotten time, picture a black and white photo of Dublin's Streets at the turn of the century and these trams are there in the foreground. The clattering trams do a loop of the town centre while an automated recording describes what is going on outside. There are loads of brochures onboard so the tram is a great way to map out your itinerary.

Luna Park on the Esplanade in St. Kilda has been on the go since 1912. It was built on the model that emerged in New York at the beginning of the 20th century. Luna is an outdoor amusement park that has all the fairground attractions you would expect but charges an astonishing $6 per ride. Add to this the fact that a lot of the attractions have seen better days (especially the crumbling rollercoaster). The place is worth a visit if only to marvel at the huge moon faced character that greets you at the entrance.

Just north of the city centre opposite Queen Street is the Victoria Market which is the venue for 100 or so tacky stalls. Since we are suckers for the stuff we loved the place. You get the usual suspects like souvenir T
-shirts and caps as well as dirt cheap electronic gear and bargain basement neck rubs.

The Melbourne Museum just off Le Trouve Street is a cut above the ordinary. It has a huge natural history section as well as a futuristic take on science and technology. The $15 entrance fee makes it great value for money. The Old Melbourne Gaol is famous for being the place that outlaw Ned Kelly was hanged. Much of the building from those days remains and it resonates with a creepy vibe. It is perhaps a little pricey at $15 but if you have your Koh San Road student cards you can get in for half price!

Fitzroy Gardens on the outskirts of town has enough going for it to make the journey by foot or tram worthwhile. Centred on a lavish fountain it contains a conservatory (no entrance charge), a model Tudor village and the home of Captain Cook (the famous explorer). There is a $4 entrance fee to view the house (that closely resembles Hansel and Gretal´s) but by walking around the perimeter wall you can get the gist of how the old scallywag spent his non sea faring days.

The Melbourne Cricket Ground (MCG) is the most celebrated Aussie Rules stadium (funny that) in the country. It has a capacity of 100,000 but that figure is rarely threatened outside of end of season matches. There are daily tours of the stadium but nothing quite matches seeing the Aussies break each other up (and for little more than the tour price). Colonial Stadium is the cities second stadium but has the edge over MCG due to its retractable roof. It has a capacity of 65,000 which means that when its full the atmosphere is special.

Phillip Island just off the South Australian coast is within easy reach from Melbourne. The island is a wildlife sanctuary that hosts a special event every sunset. As the sun drops thousands of penguins make there way ashore to nest for the night. Thankfully tour groups are kept out of sight and the habitat of the creatures is left untouched. Cameras
and camcorder s are strictly prohibited so all you'll have is the wonderful memories.

Perhaps the greatest adventure within touching distance of Melbourne is the Great Ocean Road. Stretching over 200 km this coastal road provides exotic allure all year round. Add to this the fact that there are numerous quaint towns along the way to break up the journey and savour the sights even more. There are numerous operators that provide transport and/or accommodation to the Great Ocean Road. We chose Otway Adventures who offered a multi-stop journey all the way to Port Campbell. The tour cost $65 and could be completed in 1 day or split up over as many days as you pleased.

The highlights of the tour includes Bells Beach which is where the surfing world championships are held every year. The swells are huge and even on the coldest winters day the water is full of blue tinged surfers. Other highlights include the coastal town of Lorne that has a laid back atmosphere combined with a coffee house/trendy restaurant etiquette. This is the most fashionable town on the coastal route but boasts great walking trails that include fabulous views at Teddy's Lookout that make all the difference.

Loch Ard is a popular stop on most Great Ocean Road itineraries. It is the location of the sinking of the Lock Ard ship that crashed against the rocks to kill all but one of its passengers, an 18 year old Irish girl. She was saved by a local lad to set up a potential titanic romance. Sadly it never worked out but the tale is fondly recounted by the locals in the area. The 12 Apostles is perhaps the most famous attraction on the Great Ocean Road. Situated just outside the township of Port Campbell, it is made up of 7 (there used to be 12) pillars of rock that stand imperious just off the shoreline. The views from the lookouts are outstanding at sunset. It is probably just a matter of time before the monoliths finally succumb to the sea but for the moment they r
emain one of Australia's biggest attractions. There is a visitor centre near the car park but it lacks any information of substance.

Port Campbell is basically a one street town but it has all the ingredients for a enjoyable stopover. There is heaps of accommodation ranging from camping grounds to 4 star cottages. The shoreline isn't ideal for swimming but the wave pummelled jetty is great for clearing your head or marvelling at the weather ravaged fisherman (some of them even wear sailors caps and have the grizzled outlook of men with sea scrapes on their minds). There's plenty of fish and chip shops and a pub to divert your attention from the fact that internet resources are as scarce as the public transport in and out of town. We stayed at Oceanhouse Backpackers in Port Campbell which is a renovated beach house with several 4 bunk bedrooms. The homely atmosphere is helped by the myriad of puzzles strewn everywhere and the log fire in the sitting room. A rate of $20 is charged per bunk but all linen is supplied.


ENTERTAINMENT

Melbourne has a thriving cultural edge. There are at least a half dozen noteworthy theatres worth visiting. The most famous of these is the Regent. The Regent puts on big shows like the Wizard Of Oz but prices tend to be a little quite steep. $59 was the cheapest ticket available for the above show which is beyond most budget travellers pockets.

Town Hall on King William Street runs events throughout the year. When we were in the city it hosted Circus Oz, an Aussie take on all things acrobatic. The show was delightful and as we booked our tickets at the aptly named Half Tix offices (further down King William Street) we got in for half price. Half Tix are always worth checking out for all manner of events at discount prices.

The Crown Entertainment Complex around the corner from Flinders Street Station was once the biggest casino in the world. Nowadays it is merely the biggest
in the Southern Hemisphere but it still makes for a great night out even if you don't spend a cent. There are plenty of big shots spending money like it is going out of fashion. The decor in the lobby is magical, orchestral symphonies and sculptured water displays recreate a little bit of Disneyland down under.

Becoming a member of the casino is easy (just fill out a free application form) and as a member you are entitled to a free bet ($5) and a free meal (also $5) at the snack bar. We somehow doubled our free money on the poker machines despite the fact that we knew nothing about how the game worked. Outside of the casino the entertainment complex contains a multi-screen cinema, several restaurants and bars and a huge indoor games world. The complex hosts hourly fire displays visible from the entrance and the restaurant.

Melbourne has a pretty cool underbelly when it comes to pubs and clubs. In St. Kilda the Prince Of Wales on Fitzroy Street has a great music policy and the decor that would do justice to any indie dive. The Hotel Esplanade is similarly tailored and is within a minutes walk from the Prince Of Wales. To round off the evening the Ninth on Elizabeth Street is a superb alternative club that has pretty good happy hours.

There is a good selection of freebie magazines in the city that are great for checking what's on. Many include a reviews section and some even have handy discounts. The best one is called Inpress which is dominated by leftfield music news and interviews. Another more general publication is the MX newspaper which is available at pick up points throughout the city. MX has a daily TV guide and provides good overviews of what is currently going down in town.


EATING OUT

St. Kilda is the epicentre of all things gastronomic in Melbourne. Fitzroy and Ackland Street are chock a block with eateries ranging from salubrious to trendy. Unfortunately this often means that prices are beyond
most backpacker budgets. 'Big Mouth' on Ackland Street is very popular, a great place to people watch and cheap if you stick to their all you can drink tap water.

Cafe On Elizabeth (Street) is a fine example of a joint where you can read and drink inexpensive yet tasty coffee without being roused by staff eager to squash in a few more punters. If you are weak with hunger and willing to suffer truckloads of grease and pulmonary artery clogging tasties then the Melbourne Bar & Grill in the Bourke Street Mall is ideal. It offers lunchtime 'All You Can Eat' buffets for $6.50. The food is mostly Chinese fare and tends to taste like its being stewing for days. For that price, however, you should be able to suffer this tiny inconvenience.

The Crown Entertainment Complex on the outskirts of city centre offers $2 meals during the week. These meals generally fall under the fast food heading but do enough to fill the gap. For our stay in the city we generally operated on a self-catering basis. Coles supermarket on Carlisle Street in St. Kilda is just perfect for this condition.

Getting to Melbourne from Sydney can be done on the cheap. The cheapest alternative is not necessarily the bus because Air and Rail deals are ubiquitous especially if you have a backpacker card (VIP or YHA). One such offer at the Global Gossip internet cafe at Bondi Beach had one way air fares to Melbourne for $40. If you are not driving, however, busing it tends to be very popular. There are quite a few companies plying their trade on the Sydney - Melbourne route. The cheapest (but not the most frequent) is Firefly with one way fares from $45. McCafferty Greyhound have the most extensive bus network in the country and frequently have internet deals that come close to matching Firefly's offers.

Melbourne is a city that revels in the joys of life. The place looks like it has more sport stadiums than anywhere else on earth. The city is fringed b
y large tracts of greenery which adds to the healthy feel. There is a certain amount of rivalry with bigger brother Sydney but its hard to fault either. Even among travellers opinions vary widely on preferences between the two. In the end both cities come out with flying colours. Sydney has the feel of a big metropolis that is totally in touch with where it wants to go. Melbourne has a slower metabolism that concentrates on the more traditional joys such as the arts and sport. All in all it makes for a wonderful base to begin or round off your Australian adventure.

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