A very pleasant surprise (Mombasa)

Member Name: penhas

Product:	Mombasa
Date:	09/04/03 (183 review reads)
Rating:

Advantages: Beautiful location, Guaranteed Sun, Very friendly locals

Disadvantages: High risk of sunburn if fair-skinned

We recently booked a last-minute holiday through Olympic Holidays, to Shelly Beach Hotel near Mombasa. We thought it was a good deal for one week all-inclusive, in a location that would guarantee the sun we were craving.

Then the warnings started - 'what about the terrorist attacks in 2001, what about the begging and the poverty, what about this, what about that', and we began to have doubts. We read loads of reviews (thanks, dooyoo, for some of them) and left from Gatwick with mixed feelings.

Landing at 5.30am on a Monday morning after a nine hour flight in the cramped surroundings of a charter flight is never going to leave you feeling entirely happy, and we were a little jaded to say the least. The journey from the airport to hotel was the biggest culture shock I have experienced, and we were completely unprepared for the scenes of crippling poverty - tiny 'houses' made from corrugated iron with palm frond roofs, rubbish everywhere. After an unrelenting hour of such images we arrived at the hotel, and the security guard lifted the barrier to let us in.

After a quick completion of a registration form - no computers here, they still use carbon paper - we were shown to our beach-front room.

Now, by modern western standards, the room would be considered basic - 2 single beds, a rather old chest of drawers, large wardrobe, and a bathroom with the minimum of fittings - the shower was a mixer tap over the bath. However, it was absolutely spotlessly clean, and 10,000% better than the conditions we had seen on our transfer from the airport, so we were happy with our lot.

By 7.00am we were slumbering by the pool, and by 10.00am we were sunburnt!
Our only niggle at this point was that in a country were you can't drink the tap-water and on an all-inclusive holiday, we had to buy bottled water from the hotel giftshop when we first arrived, as the bar wasn't open. (When the bar was open, bottles w

ere refilled free of charge).

After a blissful day by the pool, during which we apparently didn't apply quite enough suncream for the strength of sun, we took our slightly sun-sore selves back to our room for a shower. At this point we discovered firstly the knob to redirect the water from main tap to shower wasn't entirely competent, resulting in a somewhat pathetic dribble instead of the gushing cool water we so wanted! I gamely went first, and then discovered that a) the water to the rooms was slightly salty, being so close to the sea, and its very hard to remove soap and shampoo with salty water, and b) there was no cold water supply to the bath/shower.

This left me with soap everywhere and admirably scalding hot water to wash in. We improvised with running a bath and a transfer of cold water fom the sink (thanks to the travel kettle!). The hotel fixed the supply (although we never did get that gushing water), and we learned there were two amusing options were showering was concerned. We could either dance around under the shower head trying to get wet, while scalding hot water poured out of the tap, leaving you needing to stand half way up the sides of the bath to avoid scalding your feet. Alternatively, by balancing on one leg and jamming the other foot down onto the knob directing the flow of water it was possible to have an adequate shower, although we never did manage to get all the soap off each time!!

That evening we encountered another niggle - no air-conditioning. We had a helicopter-like fan over the bed which was so loud and made such little difference to the stultifying heat that we didn't get a decent night's sleep all week. On Thursday we were told by another guest that there were rooms with air-con available for a small upgrade fee. Needless to say, we were NOT pleased to hear this with only 3 nights of a week-long holiday left. So, Olympic, why didn't you tell us this when we booked?



We went away for a week chilling by the pool, and that's what we got. The hotel offered a variety of trips and safaris for a range of prices, and a good line in scare tactics regarding the beach boys. The food was plentiful although unimaginative, somewhat repetitive and not always as billed on the menu.

Now, those beach boys. every trip from room to pool/restaurant or return necessitated an encounter with a number of these guys. They're not allowed into the hotel grounds, so they accost you as you walk past - and there's not doubt it can be intimidating. They offer safaris and trips for less money than the hotel charge and also gifts and souvenirs. As I mentioned the hotel and tour rep do a good job in scaring you into not dealing with these guys, claiming they'll take your money and not deliver the goods. Or that they'll offer to take you on a beach walk and then mug you.

I'm sure in every culture there are dishonest people, and as I said, it does get wearing to walk out of you room and see them immediately race up the beach to intercept your walk to breakfast, AGAIN. Based on our experience and that of our fellow guests, I'd say the following:
a) be honest - if you say you'll talk to them later, they will not forget and will hound you all week. If you don't want anything, tell them and they'll just be friendly.
b) consider booking a safari through them - they act as middle-men for agencies based in the city, but charge less commission than the hotels, so they're cheaper - one guest got a £190 2 day safari for £130 by booking via a guy on the beach.
c) souvenirs - they're cheaper than the hotel giftshop - just don't hand over the full price until you have the goods. And take stuff to trade with - they are desperate for t-shirts, socks, shorts, trainers, pens and will make you a good deal.
We bought a beautiful soapstone chess set for 500 KSh (£5 approx)
and a pla
in black Next t-shirt!

In summary, I would 100% recommend Kenya. We didn't do a safari due to budget and lack of time, but we know people who did and loved it. The Kenyans are lovely people, friendly and happy and incredibly helpful. Be prepared to tip everyone, as that's how they supplement their wages.

Shelly Beach Hotel - 10 days is the optimum stay including the time for your safari. You can't go on the beach for much of the day as the tide comes right up, and anyway, it's not the nicest beach. Do go to Diani beach - the hotels can book you a trust-worthy taxi driver to go there for a very reasonable price. It's truly beautiful, and there's stuff to do.

Tamarind restaurant, Mombasa, is one of the top restaurants in Kenya and very definitely worth a visit.

Deep sea fishing - drop me a line and I can give you the details of a very good fishing skipper who can take you out for a day's good fishing.

Lastly, without meaning to sound too evangelical, when buying your gifts and souvenirs, remember that earnings can be as little as 500 KSh per week for many people - so when you're bartering and saving yourself that extra 80p on a painted plate, consider just how much that 80p would mean to the trader with whom you're bartering!

Addendum..... Following a comment made on the original version of this review, I feel I've unfairly forgotten to mention that the concerns other people expressed regarding terror attacks or problems in the event of the war on Iraq were completely unfounded. We hardly heard any world news during our stay, and never once felt under threat. The body and hand luggage search we underwent at the airport on the way home seems to indicate they take their security responsibilities very seriously indeed.

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