Mongolian Mutterings (Mongolia)

Member Name: moongod

Product:	Mongolia
Date:	04/03/02 (1292 review reads)
Rating:

Advantages: Fantastic people, Unlike any other place on earth, Cheap

Disadvantages: Disorganised (no infrastructure), Language barrier, Difficult to get to

Here is my lowdown on Mongolia. But it is a vast country with a wealth of experiences - these opinions are based on the collection of experiences I had.

THE OFFICIAL STUFF
Tourist visas are valid for 30 days. Best go through an agency for it, especially if you are doing the Trans-Siberian railway. It will prevent you having to send your passport back several times and it also costs more for an individual to get a Chinese visa. In theory, you can get a visa at the border, but expect to be in for a wait with no guarantees. Latest situation was that Americans and Israelis don't need a visa, but the passport inspectors were not always aware of this. Don't let go of your passport when you're in Mongolia - there is no visible form of policing and tour agents can be unscrupulous. Travel on a day-to-day basis with your embassy details as they're the only people that will have any form of clout to be able to help you should you get into a fix.

GETTING THERE
Your main port of call will most likely be the capital city, Ulaanbatar/Ulanbator (it's open to interpretation). The Tran-siberian railway (from Russia or China) seems to be the easiest way of getting into the country. A real experience too as the international trains are packed with all kinds of people, not least Mongolian traders smuggling all kinds into their country. Keep a hold of your bags on the very busy platform. Although the Mongolians need to buy platform tickets (keeping out most of the rabble), there are still plenty of relatives there to help with the numerous bags the traders travel with.

The brave can risk the planes. They fly in from Moscow, Berlin and Japan. MIAT (Mongolian International Airlines) use the oldest of planes and the airport, although it has some semblance of organisation) is extremely outdated and when a plane arrives, it turns into a cattle market (Mongolians don't have a word for 'queue', it is replaced by &
#39;push' and 'shove'). Watch out for the cab drivers at the airport. They WILL try to rip you off. ONLY go in one with that has a meter and make sure he switches it on (universal sign language will help!). If you want to risk it, you can go some distance THEN tell them to switch it on (cheaper fare), but the fares are so cheap, just get them to do it at the start.

STUFF YOU NEED TO KNOW
Money
The currency is togrog, it was around 1300 togrog a dollar just after September 11th 2001. As Mongolia's shops are mainly filled with cheap Chinese and Russian imports, money goes a long way (not as far if you're talking souvenir shopping). Only change money through official channels. Money changers offer better rates than banks. The best of which is in 'the cinema' (ask anyone...)
Language
Mongolians speak Mongolian. Few speak English. Some understand Russian. Best to arrange tours and initial accommodation in advance. The Mongolians are reverting from Cyrillic to traditional Mongolian script (looks like vertical Arabic) which makes matters even more confusing. Mongolians on the train will happily teach you phrases though. The first two questions you will invariably be asked are 'how old are you?' 'Are you married?'. The Lonely Planet phrasebook will help you.
Names
Mongolians only use first names after the Soviets abolished clan names.
Weather
The weather is very hot in the summer and freezing the winter, going down to -40C. Temperatures dip sharply from mid-September. If you are coming up from China from early September, then buy a warm coat!

THE PEOPLE
Mongolians are extremely warm-hearted people and speak very softly with a lilt. Even if they can't speak your language, they will help with actions (a huge Mongolian lifted my rucksack off my shoulders, marched me down the train and deposited me in the correct compartment!). Although mainly nomadic,
Mongolians are shifting more and more towards towns, still living in their gers in huge districts; not belying their nomadic roots and moving from town to town with their work for months at a time (some travelling back and forth constantly, trading on the trains). However, the Soviets left their legacy of alcoholism and many men just sit around drinking all day often drunk by 3pm. Be careful when you're going back to your guesthouse and have to enter via a dark staircase. Most taxi drivers will offer to walk you to the door - don't worry, unless you get bad vibes, they are just trying to see you home safely! Men and women are equally physically powerful and it is an awesome sight to see them playing basketball together. The women are extremely capable and invariably milk the horses, work and look after the children all at the same time. The Mongolian children are the cutest children in the world, especially when they are bundled up to protect them from the cold. Many of them are persistently dirty-faced and it is impossible to tell between the children playing in the trash and the street kids that have no parents and live in the drains. Bring small gifts, especially for the ladies.

There is little rhyme or reason in Mongolia and things can seem extremely disorganised. It doesn't help that Mongolians seem to share some kind of subconscious, seeming to know automatically where to go and when to go there without even speaking. However, things seems to have a way of working themselves out in the end and don't despair at your agent's complacency that the ticket man will turn up 10 minutes before your train is due to leave!

COUNTRYSIDE
The countryside is vast and austerely beautiful. Only a small percentage of the country is desert, much of it actually being steppe (only able to support grass). Mongolia doesn't get a lot of cloud cover because it is so far inland, hence beautiful blue skies and incredibly starry
nights (but take a blanket as the temperature plummets at night). Most of the population is still nomadic, living in gers (round, felt tents) living in harmony with their surroundings. A nomad's tent is open for fellow travellers - you will be offered food and drink (usually airag - fermented horses milk which you are obliged to drink), a bed if necessary. It's best to come bearing gifts. Something practical is usually appreciated, such as bread as shops are far and few between in the countryside! Don't assume that these gentle but hardy farmers are poor, the cashmere farmers are the richest in Mongolia (it being the country's only export). Respect their way of life and culture and they will welcome you with open arms.

To get to the countryside, you'll need a guide. Go through an established agency as there are plenty of entrepreneurs on the make. Typically, you will either camp (if you are visiting the Gobi desert) or stay in a ger camp. I went through Shuren who own Elstei Ger Camp. Upon comparison of notes, this seems to be much cleaner and less affected by tourism than places like Terelgia (a national park). You will stay in a ger, furnished with traditional orange furniture. There is usually a shower block and provisions for food adapted to Western stomaches. There is nothing to do except walking and horse-riding. Incidentally, I am allergic to UK horses, but not their stout Mongolian counterparts. Western saddles are usually provided, but they do not ride with helmets and be warned that first aid is likely to be very far away and Mongolian hospitals leave a lot to be desired. Make sure you are clear about your riding ability as some of the horses are extremely docile and some very spirited. It is amazing to see Mongolians handling horses as they are integral parts of their lives. I had an amazing sense of being, as I rode out on the Edelweiss fragranced steppe with my guide singing traditional songs to me. Hors
e riding is about $5 an hour as I remember it, including the saddle and your guide! My young guide was Gans and was extremely knowledgeable about all things Mongolian and fluent in English.

ULAANBATAR
Ulaanbatar stretches along a mountain valley. North to South can be walked in about half an hour, but stretches further than the eye can see East-West. The city is a curious mix of Soviet public architecture and grey apartment blocks, with little form or order. A building could just as likely be a squat or a museum. Shops and offices have small signs if any. Beyond the central concrete jungle lies the ger district. Most Mongolians still live in tents, congregating on the edges of towns. How Mongolians stay in touch, without telephones and without door-to-door mail, is a wonder. The country is like one huge family and everyone seems to be related to one another. For a good view of the city, head up to the Soviet monument that still presides over the city, an awesome example of Communist architecture, backing onto a large Shamanist ovoo (piles of stones with a blue rag flag that are situated in places of natural or spiritual significance). Below the monument is the Bogd Khan palace that lies on the south road into the city. An endearingly ramshackle look into an imperial past. Continuing North, towards the centre, on the right hand side is Voistavka, an exhibition space - come shopping arcade. In the parkland behind this, hides 'Tumen Ekh' a cultural show for tourists. Throat singers, tea cup dancers, contortionists (that will make you wince) are a must-see. Typical of towns in this area of the world, at its heart is the grey Sukhbatar Square; where day and night, photographers supply kitsch toys, paintings and even live deer to pose with (and you collect your photo later that day). Museums, the central post office and the State Department store are all within a stones throw of this large patch of concrete. Further afield, but stil
l within walking distance is the Gandan monastery. The Soviets left this monastery to stand as a testament to the others that were destroyed. Beautiful, but unspectacular from the outside, it houses the largest buddha in the world. An awe-inspiring sight that transcends the tourists that clamour around it, coming straight out of an Indiana Jones film. Stunning. It is surrounded by the monastery complex and if you visit around 10 in the morning, you can catch the monks chanting.

ACCOMMODATION
I've covered this in the hotels section. However, your best bet is to get sorted out with a hotel for a night or two, then find a guesthouse, or if you come in on the trains, then you can risk one of the touts that populate the train platform when the international train comes in. Accommodation is extremely variable and it's best to go on recommendation. Prices vary between $4 and $100!

Food
Mongolians are generally unimaginative people and as a result, they have 5 mutton-based dishes, Boz - mutton dumplings, Mutton pancakes, Goulash - mutton with rice, mutton with pasta and mutton soup. These will usually be extremely high in mutton fat (even the money smells of it) and accompanied by salty milk tea (by chance, there may be tea in it). These are available from 'Guanzes' (kiosks selling hot food) and you need to go in and just ask them which of these is available today...usually there is little choice. Restaurants have begun to appear in Ulaanbatar but are extremely pricey compared to the guanzes. Hygiene leaves a lot to be desired (lack of running water and dried dung being used as fuel) and most foreigners are promptly ill upon contact with Mongolian food. I was the only foreigner I knew that actually got along well with the food and enjoyed it. It's best to ask around though as some of the food is REALLY dire. There is a green-roofed round building just south of Sukhbatar square that sells palatable food at decent p
rices (if you want to stay away from the guanzes). Generally speaking, you can judge from looking at the food. Cooking food yourself is always a safe option. Noodles cooked with fatty salami and pickles is a good, tasty and cheap meal. Bring spices with you.

SHOPPING
Shopping in Mongolia is a fairly new phenomenon. Until recently, the State Department store was known as 'The Store'. However, shops are beginning to spring up - all imports except for the cashmere shops. Chinese and Russian goods predominate and are very cheap but extremely poor quality. Goods from further afield are extortionately expensive. If you are brave enough, go to the market (where the locals wear face masks to protect them from the dust and other air-borne nasties), but pick pockets evidently work in teams and foreigners are definitely targetted. This has a better array of goods than the State Department store (best for souvenires, provisions and as a meeting place) and is a good place to pick up locally-priced cashmere, but get an idea for prices by looking in stores first. Ulaanbatar has recently gained a Western-style shopping mall in the form of the Sky Mall. Prices to match. There are lots of 'delguurs' , small shops that sell groceries although the State Department store has better variety, but is quite costly. There is little fruit or vegetables in Mongolia (they can't grow on the steppe) and you will need to go to the State Department Store for them or the market. Best thing to do is bring some fruit with you. Top tip - stock up on super-cheap souvenirs in the Gandan Monastery shops - pendants for 5/10p and packets of incense for under 20p. Not top quality, but the prayer flags are very unusual. Note - Mongolians are not very business minded and bargaining usually just confuses them.

NIGHTLIFE
There is no nightlife in Mongolia...not as we know it. If you want a truly Mongolian experience, then visit the Carlsberg Club.
Entrance is a dollar. Be prepared for dancing (in circles, school disco style as couples dancing is totally unheard of) to the same music over and over again (usually Russian kitsch such as Ivanouschka International and German phenomenon Modern Talking), clearing the dance floor for fashion shows, strippers, a Mongolian Nirvana, jugglers and body builders! Foreign men will be in their element as they attract huge attention from the beautiful Mongolian ladies, albeit for all the wrong reasons. Foreign women, watch out as the Mongolian men are usually drunk before they get to the club and are used to being quite 'forthright' with their ladies. Check your bill as they will probably try to cheat you.

GETTING AROUND
There are two types of taxis - official taxis and private cars. If you can't speak the language, stick to the official ones. They are cheap as long as you make sure they switch on the meter! If you go for a private car, then agree the price before getting in. Buses are almost impossible to navigate without knowing Mongolian. If you want to travel within Mongolia, then you can get jeeps at the market which basically leave when they're full and as an example, 3 days travel off-road to Hovd in Western Mongolia is $60 or thereabouts. The drive is continuous and usually extremely bumpy due to a lack of formal roads. It is much safer to organise a jeep and driver through an agency. If you're extremely courageous, you can fly, but you will be taking your life in your hands. Flights are often overbooked (60 people for 48 seats when I went which meant some baggage had to stay behind), but if you have a problem - go to the director of the airport who will only need proof that you're foreign which will mean that your ticket will be signed as some poor Mongolian (who is still a paying fare, but at less than half the price) will be sitting in the hold with the luggage. You will need to push and shove to check in, push and
shove to get through to the departures hall and push and shove to get onto the plane. Be prepared and hold onto your belongings. If you are making a round trip, leave your baggage at your guesthouse and collect it later as there is a strict 10kg hold baggage limit.

OTHER TIPS
Take a digital camera if you can. Mongolians rarely see cameras, let alone ones where they can see the image instantly and will ensure rapturous expressions for further shots!
Anti-bacterial handwash (the type you don't have to wash off) is useful.
Packet soup is handy for making food tasty (as stock) and er...drinking!

Mongolia is unlike any other place on earth. Due to its remoteness, it has been left relatively untouched by tourism. It is rich in culture (undergoing a resurgence post-Soviet times) and the nomads are in supreme harmony with their environment. Living with the land and its animals, not on it. A real jewel that continues to shine brilliantly.

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