An attractive cosmopolitan city but not as nice as Bergen (Oslo)

Member Name: Praskipark

Product:	Oslo
Date:	29/06/09 (80 review reads)
Rating:

Advantages: Plenty to do when it rains, attractive and always thriving

Disadvantages: Very expensive for eating out and accommodation

Having just returned from a weekend in Oslo I thought I had better put pen to paper and write a review about Norway's capital city. In the past I have always travelled to Norway by ferry which is a scenic and enjoyable way to arrive. I remember passing endless islands and holms situated in the 100 kilometre Oslofjord to be greeted by wooded hills in the background and shores lined with port installations, ferries and commercial vessels in the foreground. The city of Oslo is hidden amongst all this and on past visits I have often found it quite a dull city compared with Norway's other delightful gems, Bergen and Trondheim.

So why am I re-visiting. Because I needed a break, had limited time and it was the only destination I could find on the spur of the moment. This time I flew and I have to say it wasn't cheap. I flew from Warsaw with KLM and the return flight cost over £200. I don't generally pay extortionate fares for flights but this was the best deal I could find. Most of my trips are done by road or boat but it would have taken too long this time as I only had three days to spare and I was desperate to get out and about as Warsaw can get a bit stifling at this time of year with the humidity.The journey took just over 4 and a half hours and I had to change at Amsterdam. Not too bad. And is Oslo still the dull provincial capital or has it changed to a modern cosmopolitan city. Read on........

First, a small history lesson about Old Oslo.

Situated at the end of Norway's most eastern fjord, the trading centre of Oslo developed into a town around about the 11th century. After being appointed the capital of the Norwegian empire by King Hakon V who reigned from 1299 until 1319, Oslo was the city were kings were crowned until 1514. It was in the Hanseatic period that the Oslo's importance as an influential port diminished.

After the huge fire of 1624, Christian IV rebuilt the town and the name was changed to Christiania. During the 18th and 19th centuries the settlement grew into a European style city with the first Norwegian University being opened here in 1813. The following year it was chosen as the country's capital once again.

Modern Oslo
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Oslo became politically important in the nineteenth century which had an impact on the growth of the city. At the beginning of the 20th century, Oslo became the main important centre for imports. Consequently, the name of Christiania was changed in favour of the city's old name - Oslo. In 1948, when the district of Akershus was included into the municipality, Oslo became one of the largest cities in Europe in terms of surface area encircling over 175 square miles. The inhabitants of the city which comes to around 521,000 only live in a fraction of this space. So what makes the city attractive to its inhabitants and visitors - Nordmarka. Nordmarka includes the ski-ing area of Holmenkollen, many clear lakes of crystal, cold water, vast woodland and scores of footpaths that would take a while to find - probably days, at a guess. This Norwegian city which is set in a broad valley has its own microclimate which is actually quite favourable.

Sightseeing Tour Coming Up
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To see what Oslo has to offer you need a quick, efficient and reasonably cheap way of getting round. I sugest that you buy an Oslo Card (Oslokortet). These can be purchased from tourismos, most hotel receptions and a few newsagents. It is a city wide travel pass and can be used on buses, trains and ferries and gives discounts on some coach sightseeing trips and boat trips. It really is worthwhile investing in one of these as it enables you to get free entrance into most museums and cinemas and if you did have a car you would be entitled to free parking in council run car parks. Oslo Cards are valid for 1, 2 or three days.

My husband and I purchased a card for three days and the price was NOK 410 which is approximately £39. A bit pricy I know but the everything is in this part of the world.

There are concessions for children from the age of 4 until 15 years and for senior citizens from the age of 67. I don't qualify for either of these, unfortunately. The three day pass for this category of people is £15.

So what are the star attractions - Let's take a look and see

Good news is that the city centre of Oslo can be easily covered on foot and is very straightforward. The city pattern is the same as a chequerboard and I would say takes 3 hours to walk around.

First stop is the enormous fortress on the east side of the bay and perched on a hill top. This was built in several stages and started by Hakon V Magnusson (I wonder if he was related to the Mastermind chap) in the year of 1300. Over the years work and reconstruction took place and it wasn't until the late 16th century that it was transformed into a Renaissance - style palace. The fortress was obviously built to ward off any enemies and it certainly did the job as no Swedish or Nazi armies got a look in. It was never conquered by either.

Within the faded red brick walls of the Akershus, stands the impressive Norwegian Armed Forces Museum and the Resistance Museum. The Resistance Museum occupies the harbour end of the castle precinct and consists of several displays illustrating the strategic importance of Norway during the Second World War. The museum is very sombre and detailed. I found the experience quite draining and at the end of the time in the museum I was really tired through concentrating. Photographs, posters, written documents, models, copies of original newspapers and other reading matter illustrate and help us understand what it was like to be invaded and occupied by the Nazis for five years. Amongst the special artifacts are transmitters that were used by the Resistance to communicate with the British Allies. Most written headings are translated to English. We spent nearly two hours in this museum but then my eye sight isn't too good and it took me ages to read everything.

Opening times are Monday to Saturday from 10am until 5pm

If you don't have an Oslo Card the admission charge is the equivalent of £3. Children under 14, students and Senior Citizens - £1.50

Well worth the visit.

The Armed Forces Museum is next to the castle and in the lower area of the fortress and has a warehouse look about it. Square looking grey/red brick buildings with wooden, arched windows. Cannons stand on parade outside the museum. Inside displays of military equipment depict the history of the Norwegian defences from Viking times through to the 1950's. A large section concentrates on the history of Norway's part in the second World War.

If you find this museum a little dry as I did then you can nip to the cafe in the reception area. It sells basic snacks such as sandwiches, hot soup, baguettes, hot and cold drinks and the odd cake or two. The cafe is open the same times as the museum but closes about an hour before the museum closes its doors. Admission is free and the museum is open all year round.

The palace is still used by the Norwegian Government for official receptions, and members of the Norwegian royal family are buried in the Royal Mausoleum.

Out of the two museums, I recommend the Resistance Museum.

Karl Johan's Gate is the city's main shopping street which was set out in 1835. It runs from the station to the Royal Palace, and is an embodiment of modern Norway. This street is very active and a very pleasant place to spend some time in. When I was there at the weekend performing artists were dressed in various costumes and the street theatre was colourful and amusing. Market stalls were set up and seemed a great crowd puller. I did notice that there seemed lots of different nationalities milling round. I like this cosmopolitan aspect of Oslo. The street is also home to a number of brasseries and is a very good place to sit, eat and people watch.

A narrow pedestrianised zone ends by the Storting, the Norwegian parliament building which dates back from the mid 19th century. If you want to be sophisticated and a culture vulture then why not stop and have a coffee in the very dignified Grand Cafe in the Grand Hotel. This is where Norway's famous playwright and writer, Henrik Ibsen, spent many a sunny afternoon. Another option on a sunny day, is at the open-air Sara's Telt which is opposite and has lovely views over the fountain.

Just across the road in Universitets Gata is the National Gallery. Now, I know this sounds ludicrous coming from an artist but I don't generally like art galleries. I think art should come alive and not be stashed away in a boring gallery where everybody walks round in silence. However, this is one gallery I did want to vist and hadn't visited before. The main reason being that apart from holding the nation's main art treasures the gallery has two rooms devoted to paintings by Edvard Munch and this is a man's whose work I admire. All the other paintings, 4,000 to be exact, are on display and they are all by other Norwegian painters. It is worth a visit and I enjoyed my time there.

The gallery is open from Tuesdays to Sunday - from 10am until 5/6pm There are also guided tours in English but only on Monday, Wednesday and Friday from 10am, noon and 2pm.

At the end of Karl Johans gate is the Royal Palace which has a grand park and huge square. The palace was built between 1824 and 1848 and it was the home of Harald V and Queen Sonja and the House of Schleswig-Holstein-Sonderburg-Glucksburg. That's a bit of a tongue twister. The palace is open to the public but on this visit I didn't go in. Instead I took a leisurely stroll in the park which was very relaxing and worth it for the views over the city. To the right of the palace and about a 10 minute walk away is the port.

The harbour area is a very popular area and always thriving due to the development around old west station. Here there is an exhibition centre and the Aker Brygge quay. I should imagine on sunny days, this promenade is delightful but the weather last weekend was dismal and raining. This is the area where old and young sit outside, drinking beer and eating ice creams in one of the many cafes and restaurants. On the other side of the bay, the Akershus fortress stands proud protecting its city and harbour.

To visit the city's best museums I suggest you start with a ferry ride from Radhusbrygge to the Bygdoy peninsula. In my opinion this is Oslo's most exquisite quarter. The ferry moors right next to the Gjoa, the ship that was used by Roald Amundsen when he negotiated the Northwest Passage through Canada between 1903 and 1906.

The ferry leaves from Pier 3 at the back of the Radhuset and I got off at Dronningen. You can also take a bus number 30 which is signed for Bygdoy, from the National Theatre and ask to get off at the Folk Museum. There is a traditional Inn close by on Huk Aveny 2 if you want to stop and eat but it isn't cheap.

Having lived on a boat in Portugal I am always drawn to anything maritime and my favourite museum in Oslo is the Maritme Museum which is split into three museums, Norwegian Maritime Museum, Fram Museum and the Kontiki Museum. A stroll through all these rooms will introduce you to exhibits of Norway's heroic explorers including the Fram, the exploration ship used by Nansen and Amundsen, most notably o their Antarctic expedition; the Kontiki raft, an amazing piece of work built in 1947 by Larvik born Thor Heyerdahl who sailed from Peru to Polynesia to test his theory that the first Polynesians came from South America; and his papyrus raft Ra II, in which he sailed across the Atlantic in 1970.

A few minutes walk away from the polar vessels takes you to the three Viking ships which in many respects were the forerunners of ships commisioned for more modern explorers. Oseburg, Gokstad and Tune in the Viking Ship Museum confirm the remarkable boatbuilding skills of the Norseman. Platforms enable you to get good views of the hulls. I found all the exhibits in fantastic condition and the museums were well laid out, well looked after and scrupulously clean.

Another mmuseum that I really enjoyed and one every one visiting Oslo should try to fit in - is the Folk Museum. The museum first opened in 1894 and it offers a comprehensive insight into the Norwegian way of life from the Reformation to the present day.

Examples of both rural and urban architecture are preserved in this open-air museum, which features 155 reconstructed authentic timber houses. Displays inside include contemporary furniture and household goods and utensils. Probably the most striking medieval building in the open air section is the God stave church. There is a lot to take in here and to be able to scrutinise everything you are looking at least 2 days to see all the exhibits. As we were only in the city for 3 days and wanted to see as many different things as posssible we chose mainly to look at displays illustrating facts about Norwegian music, medicine and the Sami culture. Outdoor activities which included traditional dancing and cooking took place which was colourful and lots of fun to watch even though the weather was a bit of a downer.

The Norwegian Folk Museum is open daily to the public from mid May until mid September.

If you like art and nature and still, after seeing the attractions I have already mentioned, want to soak up more Norwegian culture, then I suggest you did what we did and jump on a bus number 20 to Frogner Plass and visit the Vigeland Museum. This museum is named after the Norwegian sculptor Gustav Vigeland (1869-1943) and the park, Vigelandspark is open 24 hours and is home to 200 monumental sculptures. It is a good trip outside the city and seems to be a playground for young and old. Don't let the weather put you off - it is still worth a trip. Some of the sculptures are fascinating and I actually think Vigeland was a genius. He definitely stood out amongst his contemporaries. I love the smoothness of his work and the rounded shapes of his bodies which are then twisted and wrapped around other bodies in the most unusual shapes. Even though he was recognised as a great sculptor he never really made a living from his art and as a result, in 1921, he offered his life's work to the city of Oslo and in return received a studio and a park. The former studio is now the museum.

A ten minutes walk away from the park will bring you to the International Museum of Children's Art. This is a very bright modern museum and I was pleased with this as I love the simplicity and primitiveness of children's art work. The museum not only displays children's art from more than 180 countries, but allows youngsters to let their imagination run riot in the hope that one day their work will be shown here.

Opening times are Tues - Thurs - 9.30am until 2pm, Sunday 11am - 4pm. The museum closes on the 8 August until 17 September.

If you have read any of my other city reviews you will know that I usually like to leave the city for a few hours to see what is on offer outside. The area that surrounds Oslo is very pretty with its villas, woods and footpaths. The Froen subway station is on the Holmenkollen line and every 15 minutes a train stops here on its way to Oslo's best summit, some 227 metres above sea level. The Ski-ing Museum beneath the Holmenkollen Ski Museum and Jump tower is worth a peek and if you are feeling brave there is an opportunity for you to try the ski simulator and imagine making the jump. However, I do suggest that you make the ascent because of the view which extends across the city centre and over the fjord. Oslo, is a wonderful city, especially from this perspective. The first ski jump was built in 1892, and has since been updated and expanded about 15 times.

This recently expanded national ski facility is open throughout the year with a cafe and souvenir shop. The museum exhibits the history of ski-ing over 4,000 years. There are also displays illustrating polar exhibitions made by Roald Amundsen and Fridtjof Nansen, and the sk history of the royal family.

Open Daily in the summer from 9pm until 8pm - Spring and Autumn 10am - 5pm

That's the run down on the attractions available in the city of Oslo now I will just give you a few tips about accommodation. Most of the hotels in Oslo are quite expensive. Big chains like Best Western, Comfort and SAS Raddison are well represented but I am not a fan of these type of hotels as I think they are generally quite banal and you could be staying anywhere in the world. There is one rather posh hotel which is one of the capital's long-standing institutions and offers a high level of comfort. This is the Grand Hotel and I have only stayed here once when running a conference. The hotel is spacious and has a pleasant atmosphere, particularly in the lobby area. Facilities include an indoor pool, sauna, health club and several restaurants. I know from the Internet that there are big discounts on at the moment if you book 3 nights you get a discount of 30%. You are looking at $143 per room for three nights. Actually, that's quite good value because this is a very classy old-style hotel.

Seeing that I had overspent on the flight I didn't stay at the Grand but at Ellingsens Pensjonat which is very central but in a quiet location in an old wooden villa surrounded by a lovely type of cottage garden. It is well located near the Royal Palace, the tram 19 stops outside and the price we paid was $55 for a room. Rooms are basic but clean and comfortable. Toilets and bathrooms are shared but they are spotless and very quaint. Breakfast is not included in this price but there is a nearby cafe where you can eat and are entitled to a small discount.

There are some fantastic restaurants in Oslo but very expensive. We only ate out once and that was at the Lofoten Fiskerrestaurant which is on Stranden, 75 in the Aker Brygge area. This is a very good fish restaurant with maritime decor. The atmosphere is boisterous but a lot of fun. If you go at lunch time it is better as the prices are cheaper. To save money, my advice, is to buy food from a supermarket or find a department store that serves meals - these are usually quite cheap and wholesome. If you want to eat fast food then the choice is between a restaurant serving continental style food such as lasagne or quiche or a gatekjokken - takeaway street kitchen.

As you might have gathered from my restuarant reviews I am partialled to a beer or a glass of wine but Norway doesn't make it easy to have several drinks as it is so pricey. Before this trip I took my own bottles of wine into Norway but I was travelling by car. I didn't drink any wine on this last trip as it is too expensive in a restaurant and I don't like going in the state run retail shops, the Vinmonopolet. These outlets are to sanitised - they give me the creeps.

The Vikings knew a lot about brewing beer and there are many different regional variations, including the celebrated Arctic ale brewed by the Mack brewery in Tromso. Spirits are subject to strict state control but are available at most restaurants and in the Vinmonopolet. Akevitt, is Norway's most important alcoholic export and the country's only spirit.

So, did I think it was a dull provincial town. No, they have made a lot of changes to the city since I was last there. This trip I enjoyed even though the weather was wet and drizzly. It made a nice change from the greyness of Warsaw. The good thing about the city is that there is plenty to see and do if it does rain. The bad thing about the city is that accommodation and dining out is very expensive and you really do need a Gold American Express card for this city. Overall, it is an attractive, bustling city which is very colourful and cosmopolitan but I still think I prefer Bergen.

Summary: No longer a dull, provincial town