A Holiday Town among the Ruins and Tombs (Paphos)

Member Name: Praskipark

Product:	Paphos
Date:	12/01/09 (262 review reads)
Rating:

Advantages: Pretty Harbour, friendly and lots of history

Disadvantages: Sprawling, time share touts and expensive

Tourism didn't arrive in the small town of Paphos until the 1980's and I didn't arrive until December 2006. It was Christmas and I wanted to see my son who was based in Athens at the time. As I didn't really fancy spending Xmas in a bustling, over-crowded and polluted city like Athens, I chose to visit Cyprus and meet up with him there. I remember walking to the coach which was waiting outside the airport to take us on to Pathos and thinking this place looks a bit run down. I could see the sea in the background so I felt a little more cheerful but part of me kept thinking - perhaps I should have gone to Athens after all.

As the coach trundled down the cronky, pot-holed roads and came into the town I suddenly became more engaged with the environment around me. It was early evening and the sun was just about to set, painting the sea a rusty red and orange colour which was silhouetted on the windows of the coach. Our final destination was Coral Bay and the road leading to the holiday complex was a steep climb and seemed to take forever as the coach stopped every ten mintes to drop another holiday maker off at their hotel. The views from the coach windows were interesting if not the most beautiful. A mixture of flat top roofs filled the skyline with television aerials standing upright, like soldiers on a military parade. Palm trees, banana trees, scruffy streets and rubbish heaps immediately caught my eye - but then this is normal for eastern Mediterranean countries and it didn't bother me too much.

I think initially I expected Paphos to be more beautiful than it actually is but after being there for a week or so I realised that it has its own quirky charm and is a splendid place to visit for a holiday. The town is a strange patchwork - a holiday destination among ruins and tombs. The lower town of Kato Paphos lies in the heart of one of Cyprus's most interesting archaeological sites. There are ancient and medieval ruins within this small area and every excavated trench yields new discoveries. Whilst on the artificial irrigated coastal plain row after row of droopy leafed banana trees thrive.

Among the sights of historical interest, hotels, souvenir shops and bars, there is still enough room for the local people's simple homes, even the occasional piece of uncultivated land. Despite the renovation of the old custom houses, which is a bone of contention amongst the local people but I think looks rather splendid, the harbour quarter remains an important attraction and I would say is the most dominant feature of the town. Away from the promenade through a few narrow lanes, the town's bustling nightlife continues well into the night. Most of the hotels are grouped together and and occupy a good position overlooking the promenade.

Paphos town is clearly divided into two, with the upper town of Ktima situated 3 kilometres from the sea. Its simple tavernas and basic shops evoke a sense of rural charm. The classical style complex of school, library and town hall near the municipal car park dates from the era of colonial rule.

There is one drawback and I feel I should point this out. Within the urban confines of Paphos and its stony coastline, there are no natural sandy beaches. If you wish to stretch out on the sand and sunbathe you will have to go to Yeroskipou beach at the end of the promenade. Other sandy and pebble beaches on the west coast are accessible by bus.

A little Bit of History
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Despite the name Nea Paphos meaning New Paphos - to avoid confusion with the Shrine of Aphrodite at Palaa Paphos (Old Paphos) - the settlement here dates from ancient times. It is said to have been been founded by King Agapenor after the Trojan War. Archaeologists believe that Nikokles, the last priest King of Old Paphos, built new Paphos about 320BC. With increasing numbers of pilgrims visiting the Shrine of Aphrodite, a new and larger port was thought to be necessary. Choosing the nearest point to the Egyptian port of Alexandria, the Ptolemaic rulers made New Paphos the island's administrative centre. The Roman governors also used Paphos as their capital and at that time it supported a population of some 30,000 - almost as many as live today in Paphos. The decline set in during late antiquity, but the Crusaders and Venetians still considered the town important enough for it to have a Catholic Bishop. Francesco Contarini, the town's last senior cleric, was killed when Nicosia was captured by the Ottamans.

Interesting Sights
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The castle which was built by the Turks in 1592, overlooks the fishing harbour. Nearby lies a heap of stones left over from the earlier fortifications which the Venetians destroyed in 1570 as they had too few soldiers to maintain a permanent guard. Although not the most beautiful castle I have ever visited, it is quite a dominating structure and is worth a stroll around the fortifications if just to get views of the harbour and the promenade which is always busy from morning to night.

(The castle is open Monday - Friday - 7.30 until 2.30pm, Thursday also 3-6pm, weekends 10am - 5pm)

To the northwest of the harbour lay the centre of the Roman town. In 1962 a farmer ploughing his field chanced upon an ancient mosaic. Since then archaelogists have ucovered further mosaics in this vicinity and these now rank among the most significant and finest sights of historic interest in Cyprus. Even if you do not find ancient ruins particularly appealing you ought not to overlook these fascinating scenes from ancient mythology. The tiny blocks of stone were probably made in Alexandria in the 3rd and 4th centuries and were shipped to Paphos before being assembled. They really are beautiful and so well preserved. UNESCO has acclaimed the mosaics as a World Cultural Heritage Site.

I am not going to describe every mosaic in detail as I know archaelogy isn't everyone's cup of tea. If you are interested then I suggest you take a look at the mosaics in;

1) The House of Dionysos ( the God of Wine) - mosaics here depict several liasions such as Zeus and Ganymede, as well as Narcissus and his mirror image.

2) House of Theseus - Pictures of the heroic victor slaying the minotaur

3) House of Orpheus - here you will see scenes of Orpheus charming the wild animals with his music and wrestling Hercules with a lion.

Harbour Front
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Like most harbour fronts the one in Paphos is no different - it is bustling, full of colour and excitement. There are several shops selling rather bizarre and kitch souvenirs ranging from traditional souvenirs like woven goods and Lefkra lace, clay pottery and engraved copper vessels or brass plates All these are very reasonably priced. Soujoukko which are strings of nuts dipped in grape juice, are popular with youngsters, as are glyko, fruit soaked in syrup, while commandaria, a sweet wine, which is often appreciated by older people. Shopping in Cyprus follows the European practice, so haggling over marked prices is not often acceptable.

Intermingled with shops are cafes and fish restaurants. Some restaurants you can actually go into the kitchen and choose your own fish. Although Cypriots are laid back they are however, tenacious when trying to get you to enter restaurants to eat. So be aware that you may feel hassled and sometimes I even find this tiring at times.

To the north east of the lighthouse you can stroll along the top of the old city wall and from the City Gate a ramp carved out of the rock leads down to the beach.

The Odeon
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The Odeon can still accommodate over 1,000 spectators and it regularly stages open-air concerts and plays. Only half of the 25 rows, built on the slopes of the acropolis in the 2nd century, have been restored, but today's audiences have to do without the roof that formerly offered some protection from summer sun and winter rain. Even though it is open to the elements it is nice to sit on one of the rows and contemplate what life would have been like in the second century.

Catacombs of Saint Solomoni
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I was drawn to these catacombs because a huge turpentine tree casts its shadow over the steps to the catacombs. Once undergound and in the catacombs I could smell a strong smell and I think it was urine - it was difinitely that sort of smell and to be honest I felt a bit spooked by this place. Solomoni was forced to flee from Palestine in 168 and lived in this Hellenistic burial chamber. A spring in the base of the cave is said to cure eye complaints and anyone who ties a piece of material to the tree at the top is said to have had their wish fulfilled as soon as the cloth starts to rot. Well perhaps the smell was the spring and although the tree is of great beauty the cloths tied around it look an eye sore and if I am honest I wasn't bowled over by the catacombs at all and couldn't wait to escape.

Fabrica Hill
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Beneath Fabrica Hill graves and underground chambers have been carved out and in the Middle ages they housed a cotton mill. On the eastern flank a rock chapel has been carved out for lovers to go and worship. The Digenis Rock on the north side of the hill is the subject of a fascinating legend which goes like this.....

Digenis is a giant of amazing strength. He is a good natured giant but not blessed with intelligence. In many stories he fights against the Saracens, driving them off with boulders or else delivering a fatal blow. Once, when he stumbled to the ground, the imprint of his little finger created Five Finger Mountain. It is there where the clever and cunning Queen Rigena lived. The countryside around Paphos once belonged to Rigena and the Fabrica Hills were her palace. When the plain was afflicted by a terrible drought, she asked the giant Digenis to bring water from the mountains. He was happy to obey, hoping that by helping the beautiful Queen he could win her hand. But the Queen merely thanked him for his help and fled from his advances through an underground passage linking Fabrica with the sanctuary of Aphrodite. Beside himself with anger, Digenis attacked her palace with a stone, the Diginis Rock.

Fascinating stuff, don't you think. Well, at leats it adds a bit of romanticism to the place.

The Tomb of the Kings
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This is situated some distance away and is best reached by taxi. Buried here in lavish vaults hewn from the rock are not, in fact, kings, but the upper strata of Ptolemaic and Roman society. With pillars surrounding an inner courtyard, some of these chambers replicate the villas of the living. Amid these monuments lie some more modest catacombs and gravestones. When Christians were being persecuted, in antiquity and again in the Middle Ages, the cemetry was uninhabited. Because of my fascination with graveyards and tombs I found The Tomb of the Kings a wonderful place to visit.

Archaelogical Museum
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Now this is an interesting one. There are four rooms and the artefacts on show are arranged in chronological order ranging from Early Stone Age burial offerings found in Lemba to a Renaissaance baldachin. There is an extraordinary exhibition - a set of clay hot water bottles fashioned to fit the shape of male feet and hands. According to the information - they were probably mass produced for treating a Roman dignitary who had rheumatism.

Useful Info
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Buses are reliable and cheap and they play local Cypriot music which is lots of fun and makes the journey enjoyable.

Hired cars are cheap and very easy to arrange.

Watch out for time share touts especially near the central bus station - they are a nuisance and insistent.

Restaurants - various cuisines, plentiful but expensive, large portions

Language - English is spoken

Hotels/Accommodation - A great variety. My advice is to book a package holiday rather than do it on your own. It will work out cheaper.

Supermarkets - lots to choose from - small and large. Watch out for the huge blocks of halva that you can slice off your own pieces. Delicious.

Summary
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Well, I think that covers Paphos. Although I was a bit sceptical at first I have to say that I really had a great week here in Paphos. The weather for December was warm enough to just walk around in a T shirt. It's suitably placed for trips out into the mountains (see my Troodos Mountains review). It's abit touristy but at the same time the town manages to keep its own quaint charm. Some areas are a bit scruffy but after a few days I didn't notice and compared with some other places I have been to it isn't that bad. I'm glad I've been - it's laid back, pretty, and has a lot of eastern Mediterranean charm

The only thing I regret and could kick myself now is that I never took the boat trip to Alexandriia and didn't catch the plane to Beirut. Never mind - next time perhaps.

Summary: A good base for seeeing southern Cyprus