The City that loves you back (Pennsylvania)

Member Name: cathy

Product:	Pennsylvania
Date:	16/10/00 (118 review reads)
Rating:

Advantages: Cosmopolitan for an American city

Disadvantages: ... you need a car to travel further afield in Pennsylvania

Philadelphia comes as a bit of a surprise to most Europeans. It’s surprisingly cosmopolitan and parts of it are surprisingly old – it was the USA’s first capital city after all.

GETTING AROUND
A great way to get around is on one of the many little purple mini-buses, (called a Phlash – see Philadelphia in a Phlash – geddit?). You can buy a day pass from any driver for $3 and hop on and off all day. Although you can cover a lot of the center on foot. Start out at the tourist office at the central rotunda to pick up useful free maps and brochures.

Visitors Centre
The Centre’s at 3rd & Chestnut Streets. There are lots of exhibits and a film about the history of the city called “Independence”. You can also find out about current events and activities in the city. Admission is free.

THE LIBERTY BELL
Philadelphia is, of course, home of the famous Liberty Bell – which you’ll find on Market Street between 5th/6th Streets. It’s open all year round with virtually continuous taped commentary about it’s history, (available in many other languages on request). . If you arrive outside opening hours – don’t worry – you can still view the Bell and listen to the tape at a special viewing window. The bell’s inscription reads “Proclaim liberty throughout all the land unto all the inhabitants thereof” and you can buy foil wrapped chocolate replicas all over the place from about a dollar upwards.

CITY DISTRICTS
Waterfront District
The historic waterfront district starts around 6th Street and runs down to Penn’s landing on the Delaware river – this is where the first settlements began. These days there’s a number of fine old colonial buildings complete with cobbled streets. The Liberty Bell lives here in what’s known as America’s most historic square mile. Most sites are free admission.


Old City
The heritage trail continues to the north of Market Street where you’ll find amongst other things – Betsy Ross’s house. Betsy Ross sewed the first American flag. Just round the corner is a real little gem – Elfreth’s Alley the oldest residential street in America. A delightful terraced street that could easily be an expensive mews in London. Lots of nice hanging baskets etc. Around this area you’ll find a host of art galleries and nearby an outdoor art and craft market where you can get a lightning sketch of yourself by a starving artist for a very reasonable $10.

South Street
The "hippest street in Philadelphia," South Street is famous for its bohemian atmosphere, diverse and interesting little shops, loads of restaurants and nightlife. It’s a great place to hang out and watch the world go by. You can also buy lots of repro art deco/art nouveau stuff at a fraction of the price you’d pay over here. (Although transporting several fragile glass shades back to the UK intact can be a problem). But be careful – by the time I’d bought conversion kits for these very desirable desk lights – they cost nearly as much as in Debenhams. South Street is also the main gay area with lots of shops, bars and clubs and – a first for me – a gay pet shop – “and Toto too!”

Washington Square District
Centered around Washington Square (surprise, surprise!) this area contains a lot of speciality shopping areas and the famous Walnut Street Theatre. Particularly good for antique shops and jewelers. Look out for Jeweler’s Row on Sansom Street America's oldest Diamond District (est. 1851). The ‘Row’ actually runs from Sansom St between 7th & 8th Streets to Eighth Street between Chestnut & Walnut Streets, (look at your nice free map from the tourist office). Hundreds of jewelry shops offering very good prices and all accepting a
ny major credit card. Washington Square itself was actually planned and designed by William Penn himself, (the founding father of Pennsylvania).

Reading Terminal Market
Wonderful Farmer’s market housed in an old railway station. You can get anything to eat here – it’s brilliant. Try all the wonderful fresh seafood at prices you won’t believe. You’ll also find quite a few stalls run by the Amish who bring their produce into town from rural Pennsylvania. Great for unusual souvenirs – try the watermelon preserve and look out for ridiculously cheap hand embroidered goods. You’ll find the market at 12th & Arch Streets There’s 70-80 stalls from a wide variety of ethnic backgrounds so it’s food-fan heaven. You can also buy crafts, books and other non-food stuff here too. More good buys are the flagons of genuine maple syrup and, of course, chocolate replicas of the Liberty Bell. (I did loads of my present shopping here).

Chinatown
The "Chinese Friendship Gate" at 10th and Arch Streets ushers you into Chinatown. Philadelphia has had a thriving Chinese community for over a century. Great restaurants and very cheap ceramics. Look out for the exciting dragon murals on the district's fire station.

Rittenhouse Square District
The posh bit. A surviving part of Penn’s original city plan this lovely public square lies at the heart of the top shopping district – take wads of cash if you plan to do more than widow shop.

Manayunk
Just west of the Center City lies Manayunk - one of the newest hot spots in the area. Declared a National Historic District in 1983, "Philadelphia's Main Street" has more trendy shops, bars and eateries than you can shake a stick at.

South Philadelphia
A tapestry of long-established ethnic neighbourhoods but probably best known for its outdoor Italian Market and home of the famous Philly cheesesteak


THE FAMOUS PHILLY CHEESESTEAK
Cheesesteaks were invented in South Philadelphia in the 1930's at ‘Pat's Steaks’, in the heart of South Philadelphia, originally topped with pizza sauce, (this variety is now known as a pizza steak).

The classic cheesesteak consists of onions, mushrooms and peppers sauted until soft, thin, thin, thin, shavings of steak fried (but not crispy) all dumped in a soft Italian roll and topped with cheese whiz. Ok it’s heavy on the grease and hardly gourmet cuisine – but you can’t go to Philly and not try a cheesesteak.

There are two major claimants to the title of best cheesesteak maker – Pat’s and Geno’s both on Passyunk Avenue near 9th Street.

OTHER ATTRACTIONS

Edgar Allen Poe
Poe lived in Philly during the most prolific period of his life publishing around 50 works in a six year period including “The Pit & the Pendulem”, “Fall of the House of Usher” and “Masque of the Red Death”. You can visit his house at Spring Garden.

Benjamin Franklin
The BF National Memorial can be found at the Franklin Institute Science Museum. There’s a big marble statue of the man himself plus lots of his original experimental equipment and personal possessions. The National Memorial's activities include tours, publications, annual convocations, perpetuating the legacy of Benjamin Franklin, and studying the problems facing humanity, admission is free.

PLACES TO EAT & DRINK

BARS - Cafe Nola 119 South Street - quite nice. Downey’s – one of Philly’s most famous Irish bars, you’ll find it at the bottom of South Street. Live entertainment nightly at the Grape Steet Pub, (see if you can work out where that is). McGillin’s Olde Ale House 1310 Drury Street, est 1860 and boasting a display of every single tavern licence from then to the present day.
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br>EATERIES - Chart House, 555 South Columbus Blvd. Spectacular sunsets over the Delaware and huge portions – mainly steak & seafood. Katmandu on North Columbus Blvd is a nice bar/restaurant/nightclub. Liberty Belle, Penn’s Landing – a Mississippi style riverboat serving lunch and dinner during a Delaware cruise. Meiji-en 19 North Columbus Blvd. Wonderful Japanese-American waterfront restaurant. Rock Lobster, Pier 13-15 Columbus Blvd – many times winner of the “Best of Philly” award. If you like lobster - go here!

OUT OF TOWN DELIGHTS

King of Prussia Shopping Mall
This is where really devout shoppers go when they die. It’s outside Philadelphia but there are buses from the center, costing around $3. This is, (I think) the second or third biggest shopping mall in North America. There’s 8 department stores including the divine Neiman Marcus not to mention Bloomingdale’s, Macy’s and Sears plus a shop for every day of the year, (365) and well over fifty places to eat and drink. But if none of the menus appeal – just cross over the road to the nearest Denny’s – a prime example of the classic American diner.

I had a great time in Philadelphia – including secret assignations and world-class sex – but that’s another story..

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