| Product: |
Queenstown |
| Date: |
19/08/02 (251 review reads) |
| Rating: |
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Advantages: Fun, Fun, Fun.
Disadvantages: Don't Get Over Excited.
There are alternatives of course, you could venture to nearby sleepy Wanaka where the opportunities to get your blood pumping are near endless. There's also the near coma inducing charm of Lake Te Anau with its myriad of activities. Most people, however, plump for New Zealand's South Island adventure capital, Queenstown.
For a hamlet with an year round population of just 7,500 people this town has a huge geographical spread. Perhaps the fact that there are 15,000 tourist beds in the vicinity explains the urban sprawl. Nearby towns of Arrowtown and Frankton have now been usurped by the onward march. When we arrived there were huge road works to widen the main artery into townso you can see that full on resort status is not too far away.
Queenstown started out as a mining town over 150 years ago but as the gold finds dwindled so did the population. Today it has discovered that the tourist dollar can be just as profitable and on that basis it goes from strength to strength. Apart from being the home of the bungy jump Queenstown is perfectly situated within reach of two of the southern hemispheres premier ski fields. The Remarkables ski area is world renowned and the Coronet Peaks have a fantastic reputation, not least for their nightly skiing! Milford Sound and New Zealand's fiordland is a mere bus ride away so there are plenty of day trips vying for your attention.
Queenstown's town centre is tiny, making it easy to get around on foot. There are only 4 main streets so getting lost is not really something you should worry about. The shores of Lake Wakatipu and the snow capped splendour of the Remarkables mountain range provide the stunning backdrop. Lake Wakatipu is a natural wonder in its own right. Every five minutes its depth varies by up to 12cm and nobody can explain why. There are several probable causes including the belief that as yet uncovered underground feeds affect the l
akes size.
During the Summer season (October to March) and Ski Season (November to April), in other words all year round, you will need to book accommodation in advance. Many of the town centre hotels and hostels fill up by mid morning so arriving homeless may mean looking beyond the obvious. Sometimes going beyond the obvious throws up better alternatives, however, so don't panic.
ACCOMMODATION
With so many beds available it's hard to believe that there could ever be a shortage of accommodation in town but it occurs almost daily. Queenstown is on nearly every travellers itinerary so be prepared to look around. We booked ahead with a hostel called Bumbles who were situated on the edge of town on Beach Street. At $40 it seemed quite cheap on paper. Arriving at dusk it was obvious we had been given the runt room. A bunk bed crammed into a matchbox in the television room was our fate. No sleep was the inevitable outcome, but being within excellent earshot of some fab soap operas meant we could catch up while resting at the same time.
Our experience with Bumbles led us on a hillside walk to the Lakeside Holiday Park just off Isle Street. This place really clears away any ill feeling you might have about staying in a holiday park. It has really nice cabins starting at $60 that sleeps up to 4. For a few bucks more ($76) you can get an apartment which really shows up many backpacker hostels for what they are. There were 3 of us travelling together so the nightly rate proved very economical.
Every apartment has ensuite facilities, a TV, delph, kettle, 2 in-house movies a night and a storage heater. There are several laundries spread throughout the park and 2 spacious and fully equipped kitchens to cook in. The camp office is open until late and has a good booking service and internet kiosk. Within the grounds there is Mini
-Golf
and a rickety old trampoline (for the brave...or the drunk!).
Black Sheep Backpackers, the self confessed (and drolly) 'outstanding in its field' is nearly always packed but gets rave reviews from travellers and guidebooks alike. Booking ahead is pretty much essential. Southern Laughter just beyond the town centre on Sydney Street is a great little hostel. Based on a log cabin it is warm and has very friendly staff and competitive prices. The best thing about them is that they afford a 10% discount on the Shotover jet and you don't even have to be staying there.
ATTRACTIONS
You could say it all started in 1988 when A J Hackett jumped off a bridge near Queenstown with only a strengthened rubber tied to his feet between him and a nasty end. Bungy jumping is now a world-wide phenomenon and its hometown is positively overflowing with opportunities to hurl yourself towards the ground. While we denied ourselves the treat, you've got admire anyone who is willing to suffer burst eye blood vessels for a momentary adrenaline rush.
Queenstown is close to several rivers but it the Shotover river that gets the most attention. This is where the Shotover Jet plies its trade all through the year. The Shotover Jet is an aluminium speedboat with some tricky mechanics that allow it to turn 360 degrees at great speed. Add this thrill with the sight of a driver aiming for every large boulder within range and you get 30 minutes of heart pounding action. When we did it the temperature was artic so our senses were somewhat dulled. The price is a little steep too for the length of time you get on the river. The normal retail price is $80 but the Southern Laughter hostel and a few agents in town give a discount to bring it down to $71.
With so many peaks in the background it was inevitable that they would be put to good use. T
he Remarka
bles and the Coronet Peak are popular skiing resorts but you really need to set aside about $100 a day if you are arriving without gear. Sometimes it feels like everybody is carrying a snowboard in town so it may be difficult to resist the urge to make at least one stop at the slopes.
Through a combination of will power, poverty and frostbite we managed to stay away from the ski fields so we had to come up with alternatives. Ice-skating was as close as we got to hurtling along on slippery surfaces. I'm not usually a big fan but the rink in the Queenstown Gardens is huge so there's no need to worry about crushing anybody when you lose your balance. During the summer the rink doubles as an indoor karting track. Sessions on the ice cost $15 (concessions for 10% are available at Bumbles hostel) for as long as you want. Ice boots cost a mere $3 although getting a snug fit is not always possible.
Within the same gardens you'll notice the totally naff yet unfathomable popular frisbee golf. The aim of the game is to glide your saucer towards the 18 sticks positioned throughout the gardens in the least number of throws. Avoiding greenery, woodland creatures and humans is a continual hazard but when your having this much fun it's worth the risk.
As with most of the South Island of New Zealand tramping is huge in Queenstown. The most impressive walk extends to the summit of the Ben Lomond peak. The track is accessed from the top of the gondola near the starting point for the luge. Reaching the summit can take up to 5 hours but with near treacherous conditions in winter (due to snow and ice) you have to allow more time. A much more manageable climb (but still backbreaking at times) goes to the Ben Lomond Saddle. The views along the way are breathtaking even if you feel like death is a only a badly judged step away.
The track has plenty of lookouts on
the town and ge
tting up really close to snow covered peaks is a life affirming feeling. As you get higher the snow gets more prominent and conditions can get very slippy. We crawled through on our runners but well gripped boots would have certainly hastened our journey.
The Skyline Complex towers over Queenstown. Access is by an unforgiving walk or by one of the towns premier attractions the Skyline Gondola. The Gondola ride offers unparalleled views of the town although the $14 return fare is a little steep (excuse!). A combo deal with the skyline luge costing $25 makes much more sense. For this you get 5 luge rides down a scenic or advanced track as well as the gondola trip.
A luge is a take on a go-kart and is propelled by the gradient of the track alone. The scenic track is a good introduction but its the advanced track that will appeal to those over 14. Crash helmets are provided but accidents are inevitable (just see all those people limping back on the gondola). The converted ski lifts that are used to ferry luge riders back to the start of the track are a thrill in their own right.
Parasailing is very popular in Queenstown for 2 reasons. The air currents are near perfect and the views from the air are stunning. Prices start about $130 and there are several touts plying their trade near the Skyline buildings who can be very persuading. The buildings themselves house a restaurant, souvenir shop and some excellent viewing decks.
ENTERTAINMENT
The World is the grand old dame of Queenstown nightlife. It is huge and even has internet facilities. There are several Irish pubs in town but the pick of the bunch is Pogue Mahones on Beach Street. Don't be fooled by the paddywhackery of the name this place has the smell, furnishings and atmosphere that mimics the real thing perfectly. Pity then that the prices are typical
ly high which means
that getting drunk there requires a thick wedge of cash.
The Red Rock Bar on Camp Street is perfect for apres ski drinks. It is built like a log cabin and the open fire and intimate lighting just add to the ambience. There is a pool table out back but this place is perfect for cosy conversations while the wind rustles through the trees outside.
Budget Communications is about the cheapest internet facility in town. Try to go between 9 and 11 in the morning or the evening and you'll get an hour on the web for $3 (even less with 10% concessions available from some of the towns hostels). Budget Communications have head sets and a quick connection and are situated on the 3rd level of the O'Connell Mall.
EATING
I normally call this section 'Eating Out' but because Queenstown can be a little pricey when it comes to dining what follows is a few ways to fill your belly without breaking the bank. Apart from a few calls to the O'Connell mall food court (which has a limited run on Asian and fast food) we generally cooked for ourselves.
The Alpine Supermarket has a great location near the town centre but its bloated prices meant that we used it as a last resort only. The huge Fresh Choise supermarket on the rather crudely named Gouge Street (no they didn't sell eyes there, of the sheepish or otherwise) was excellent for all our needs.
There are plenty of restaurants in town such as Roaring Megs (named after an infamous bar maid from the goldrush era), Little India (Shotover Street) and the Skyline restaurant at the top of the gondola. The latter has great evening deals where for around $35 dollars you can indulge on an 'all you can eat buffet' and receive a return trip on the gondola.
MISCELLANEOUS
Unlike its nearby neighbo
ur the New Zealand native
s the Maori have integrated quite well with the rest of the population (this despite the fact that when the white man arrived he made a nice garnish!) Many of the original Maori names remain which means that you find yourself travelling to places you can neither spell let alone pronounce.
Booking a bus company to see the country is a big issue. There are quite a few alternatives that appeal to various sections of the backpacking community. You have the Kiwi Experience (avoid if over 20) with its youthful attitude and liberal morals. There is the Magic Bus that is aimed at a slightly older traveller (but not much). Stray have the get away from the crowd brochures and tend to go beyond the main stopoffs.
We plumped for the government run Intercity bus company for several reasons. First of all they have the most daily services, they have a pass called the Pathfinder that is as cheap as you'll get ($408, only 200 euro) and lastly and most importantly there is no pressure to stick to affiliated hostels that the private bus companies push. In the end we were delighted with our decision because Intercity tend to be fantastic for being on time, are comfortable and the driver commentary is superbly detailed and often hilarious. Intercity Bus have a depot at the Station under the clock tower on Camp Street.
With its abundance activities and places to visit New Zealand can be a little overwhelming for making choises on what to do. Fortunately Lonely Planets 'New Zealand' is one of their better efforts and excels in offering advise on accommodation and historical notes. There are other good sources however such as the backpacker centric 'TNT' which has good synopsis's on all the main tourist trails.
Queenstown is close to being the adventure travellers perfect destination, there is just so much to do. Most of the time
filling your days with activit
ies can end up costing an arm and a leg (depending on what gets your blood adrenalising, and quite literally sometimes). Add to this the fact that the natural environment that envelops the town is the most stunning that you will ever see and you have a destination that begs to be visited.
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Last comment:
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Mauri - 14/11/02 Excellent review, well written and informative.
BTW thanks for adding me to your COF much appreciated. |
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