How I Long-a for Tonga (Tonga)

Member Name: DannoStanno

Product:	Tonga
Date:	28/05/09 (12 review reads)
Rating:

Advantages: Unique, nontouristy, fascinating place. Friendly people

Disadvantages: Dirty, isolated

I spent 10 days in Tonga in September 2007. Whilst living in New Zealand, Tonga was one of only a limited places to go cheaply on holiday and was far more appealing than Anglo-Australia or Coup-ridden Fiji. Thus we booked flights and flew over to the capital, Nuku Alofa, which is part of Tongatapa the Southern most of the main 3 island groups that form Tonga.

The airport was amazingly different to what you expect an airport to be. A tiny clearing surrounded by tara crop and a couple of grey outhouses holding the usual airport fare. We arrived at 3 in the morning and were thankfully greeted by a small range of touts from some of the local guesthouses. Unlike the touts of Asia or the Middle East, they were friendly, helpful and didn't rip us off.

The island is small, small enough to cycle round in half a day or so (which we did) and though technically tropical it was very dirty. Tongans, sadly have been introduced to the Western world's wastage policy and thus empty cans of corned beef lay scuttled along the roadside along with other rubbish. This isn't a good look to go for but was fascinating to see from someone with no real preconceptions of what Tonga should be like.

The hotel/guesthouse we stayed at was pretty basic but very comfortable. Very open planned (rooms around a courtyard) and spiders and insects scuttled around which didn't bother me and added to the atmosphere. It was run by a very nice old lady who instantly invited us to a party on our first night. Being a slightly wary traveller after experiencing much of Asia, I was a little sceptical, but it turned out to be her granddaughters's first birthday and all the 6 or so westerners staying came along. Wow, Tongan hospitality is amazing. Everyone was so friendly and the food came thick and fast. The people are highly Christian and such hospitality was warm and welcoming. Though we were strangers and westerners at that, it didn't matter as we were ingratiated with their hospitality and gorged ourselves on the biggest feast I have ever seen (2 hog roasts none the less).

Sadly, that was the best food we had all trip. Food in Tonga is disappointingly bad even though pigs crawl the streets and the islands are surrounded by the Pacific swimming with tasty seafood. The local dishes are corned beef from cans (brought in during the war I believe) and mutton flaps (though I'm not sure what part of the sheep this is from!). Restaurants are few and far between and, a word of warning, everything closes down on a Sunday due to the strong grip of religion.

Beach wise, we had to cycle to some isolated spots to enjoy somewhere clean. The water around the 'city' (more like a village) is dirty and polluted but eventually we found a couple of small coves where we could swim and laze and strip to swimwear which is generally discouraged due to religious reasons. There are also a few interesting features around the island: blowholes creating amazing jets of ocean and a South Pacific version of Stonehenge, though smaller, having its own mystery to it.

The town was pretty quiet when we were there and much of the previous years riot aftermath could be seen (lots of buildings were burnt down and this was visiable) though it was safe and friendly and we had the best baby coconuts I've ever had.

Though we didn''t have time to go to see the more northern other 2 island groups (Ha'Apai and Vava'u) which are supposed to be more basic and more serene, we did fly over to Eua, a tiny island off the main island, in a miniature Air Tonga plane. At just 14 minutes long, this is the world's shortest commercial flight. The island of Eua, though near, is very different. Firstly it has a rainforest like feel and was ace to adventure around. Secondly it is surrounded by whales! More whales than I have seen in my life, just from the seafront guesthouse we were staying at. We took a local boat ride and spent all morning watching these magnificent creatures doing their stuff which was totally amazing. However, our trip to Eua was soured by Air Tonga cancelling the infrequent flight back causing much panic as money had run out (no cash machines on Eau!!! Great fun...) yet much excitement, as we had a plane back to New Zealand to catch.

This is really unlike any place I have been and though I wouldn't recommend it to those wanting a beach holiday with tourist ammenities, if you're in that area of the world it's worth having a look

Summary: If you're in the area definitely worth a visit to this isolated bizarre place