Take a gander at Uganda (Uganda)

Member Name: marcel_beren

Product:	Uganda
Date:	24/03/03 (510 review reads)
Rating:

Advantages: Scenery, People, Wildlife

Disadvantages: Mossies

The stomping feet and chanting voices grew louder - punctuated by occasional screams. I was terrified. Little did I know that not only was I safe, but about as safe as I could be.

###Introduction###

In March 2003, I visited Uganda. I was only there for a handful of days, to see some of the projects funded by the charity I currently work for (International Care & Relief, ICR*).

Given the short amount of time that I was in the country, I was a little loathe to write a full-blown opinion, which might influence people in their choice of holiday destination. However, I reflected on how much I enjoyed being there, the huge impact the people and landscape had on me and the fact that I'm desperate to return. And that decided me - I just had to tell Dooyooers about this magnificent place.

###Idi Who?###

OK, first things first. I only knew a couple of things about Uganda before I joined ICR. One was that 100 years ago, the British offered a chunk of the country as a Jewish homeland. And the other was - Idi Amin.

I suppose that if you've not heard of Idi Amin, you're probably under 30 and you probably know nothing at all about Uganda. Apart from him, there are and have been (subjectively) no really famous Ugandans. And if you have heard of him? Well, he's been living in Saudi Arabia since his regime was overthrown in 1979. This isn't the place for a history lesson about Uganda, but what is far more pertinent is (as Laurence Olivier said (repeatedly) to Dustin Hoffman) "Is it safe?"**

###Security###

Well, the point I was trying to make with my burbling about Amin, is that Uganda is a pretty stable country.

Since Amin was kicked out, the country has come through civil war and strife and gradually (and particularly since the mid 80s) settled into a prolonged period of what might just about be termed democracy. There are elections, and although the main newspaper (New Vis

ion - see www.newvision.co.ug) is state-owned, it does carry articles critical of the government and also offers itself as a platform for debate.

The main problems with security in the country lie in the extreme north, along the border with Sudan. Southern Sudan is highly unstable and there is a rebel force (the Lords (or possibly Lord's or even maybe Lords' - I'm not going to ask them) Resistance Army) that operates across the Ugandan border. Their distasteful activities are currently well restricted by the Ugandan forces and they are unpopular with the populace - not a sound basis for a guerrilla force.

Particularly in the current climate of world affairs it is wise to check the current Foreign and Commonwealth Office guidelines before planning a trip (www.fco.gov.uk). Bear in mind that they'd rather no-one travelled anywhere and watch the careful diplomatic language ("strongly advise against" v "advise against" v "you should avoid").

While staying in the Masindi District in the west of the country, I had the experience outlined in the opening lines of this op. It was 5 am, totally dark and the noise was rather frightening, coming from just outside my window.

Little did I know that the noise was of the police recruits (from the police college next door that I didn't know was there) going for a morning run. I was even more reassured when I discovered that, on the other side of the 'lodge' where I was staying, was a large police station and across the road was a Magistrates' Court. I doubt I've ever been so safe in the UK!

I guess what I'm winding up to is this... if you're sensible and follow the spirit (if not the absolute letter) of the FCO guidelines, you'll find yourself in a pretty safe country. Yes, there is crime and like pretty much anywhere on earth if you're not stupid, don't ignore advice and keep your money out of sight
, you
should be fine.

###Health###

I guess I'll do my best to put you off going by following the security advice with the bad news about jabs.

The long and the short of it is that you'll need some, plus anti-malarials and aside from various discomforts, they can be pricey.

You will need a Yellow fever certificate to get into the country. This cost me £30 and an uncomfortable upper arm, but I have the distinctive yellow form clipped into my passport and it's valid for 10 years. You need this certificate to get into many countries, so it's quite worth having.

Uganda is in a malarial area and you'll need protection. My supply of Malarone cost about £2.50 a day (you need one per day, plus about 9 more days - 2 before you go and a week after). Worse, they made me very unwell (shall we say, for the sake of delicate readers, "runny"?) for a day and queasy for another 3 days. The general advice is to avoid the brand Larium, as there have been reports of nasty psychological side effects, although a former boss of mine said Larium gave her 'filthy dreams' - which I suppose could be considered a benefit. She certainly walked around with a grin.

Take anti-mosquito spray or wipes, cover up at dusk and a sewing kit can be handy to mend small tears in mosquito nets. Despite all precautions, my blood was enjoyed by many of Uganda's smallest inhabitants and I was grateful for some bite-relief cream.

A notable health threat in Uganda is HIV/AIDS. There is a very high prevalence of HIV/AIDS in Uganda (indeed, this is one of the issues ICR is addressing). As with the UK, sensible behaviour is advised!

###The Geography and Climate###

I flew into Entebbe (the old colonial capital, now superseded by Kampala, but still the location of the airport) following a transit at Nairobi airport in Kenya. As the plane landed and took off at Nairobi, I saw a yellowy-grey sav
annah-type
landscape, punctuated by the occasional tree, or line of green following a water-course. "Hmmm... Africa!" I thought to myself.

Although Nairobi and Entebbe are relatively close (an hour's flight, mostly across the vastness of Lake Victoria, see below) and are at a similar line of latitude, (approximately the Equator!) the difference is stark and startling.

Uganda is largely a very green country, blessed with fertile, orange-coloured soil and lush vegetation. There is plenty of rainfall and although there is some savannah-type land and rainforest, it's largely characterised by plains covered with abundant vegetation.

It's a fairly flat country and much of it lies under fresh water lakes, like Lake Victoria. There is much wildlife to see, if that interests you. According to the Ugandan government website, (www.government.go.ug) Uganda is in the top 10 of countries when ranked by number of mammal species found there. Of particular note to tourists, there are mountain gorillas in the Bwindi Impenetrable Forest and Mgahinga Gorilla National Park. To visit either, you will need a Gorilla Permit. These are tightly controlled and used to protect the Gorillas from too much interference from humans. There are also strict rules about the behaviour of anyone visiting the Gorillas. If you do wish to see the Gorillas, I strongly suggest you book through a recognised tour operator before you travel.

###The Sights###

Lake Victoria is spectacular. Apparently, it is not uncommon for visitors to Uganda to think they have flown in over the ocean - it is the third largest freshwater lake in the world (after the Caspian Sea and Lake Superior).

The Lake teems with fish, tilapia being a popular and tasty local dish. I recommend the "whole tilapia" charcoal grilled in the traditional manner. Yum.

As mentioned above, there are several National Parks, although please note that FCO a
dvice currently advises against visiting several, so make sure you check.

Jinja is a city and also the source of the river Nile. It seems extraordinary that the river that
spills into the Mediterranean in Egypt has flowed all the way from central East Africa, but... it has.

Other tourist attractions include The Kasubi Tombs, resting place of the former 'Kings' of Buganda, the pygmy homelands around Ntandi and the 400 year old rock paintings at Nyero.

###The People###

I was struck by the formality and gentleness of the people I met. Their English is almost Victorian in its stiff courtesy and can be difficult to hear because it is softly-spoken - which made quite a change from raucous Londoners.

I was welcomed like royalty everywhere I went, which may have given me a stilted impression of the more usual tourist experience, but I found people to be extremely hospitable and keen to please. Sometimes too keen. Particularly in the rural areas, the tradition continues to this day of women and girls bowing (and I mean RIGHT DOWN) to men, something that took me by surprise and I found I was not comfortable with.

###Traveller's Tips###

1) The Ugandan shilling (approx 3,000 to the pound at time of writing) is benefiting from the country's stability in political and economic terms. Nonetheless, as a traveller from the UK you'll find prices for locally made / grown products are terrifically cheap. I bought hand-made wooden items (souvenirs and household items) that were beautifully made and very cheap at a daily craft market in the capital Kampala.

I took with me a stock of dollars and found that there are two exchange rates used by locals. You'll get more shillings for your dollars if you have high denomination bills - and that's probably the most useful tip I can give you.

2) Uganda is about an 8 hour flight from the UK, if you fly direct with British Airways or K
eny
a Airways. I'd suggest you choose your carrier by convenience of take-off times. That precise issue forced me to fly via Nairobi. This adds about another hour of flying time,
plus your transit time in Nairobi airport, which isn't exactly Utopian in its comfort levels for those transiting. OK. I'll level with you - it's a pit. Use the loo on the plane.

3) Uganda was a British colony for a long time and many locals, particularly young people and city slickers will speak perfect English. However, they will often find your accent, choice of words and speed of speech difficult, a problem that is reciprocal. Speaking slowly and avoiding colloquialisms helps (shouting, a la Basil Fawlty is not recommended), but it is a peculiar feeling, not being understood by people who speak fluent English.

A host of other languages are also spoken and although Swahili is useful, I doubt it's worth investing in a phrase book.

4) Uganda has retained a quirky Britishness that is often handy, from the use of English (as mentioned above), to driving on the right side of the road (i.e. the left) and even using "English style" electrical sockets.

5) Entebbe is pretty much famous for one thing and one thing only - the "Raid on Entebbe" and the generally appalling films true life spawned. Curiously, the original airport where the raid took place is still there, apparently frozen in time, with a newer (quite charming) airport built right next to it. Look out for it (the old one - you can't fail to look out for the new one, as you'll be using it) when you arrive or depart.

6) If you're a bloke and trying to make a reasonable impression, e.g. you're in Uganda for business reasons, don't wear shorts. The locals dress quite formally - a farmer's co-operative meeting I attended looked more like a teacher training session. While they'll forgive you because you're foreign and
they're polite, I didn't see any local males above the age of puberty wearing shorts, except for some guys playing football in Kampala. I'm sure no-one would say anything, but I felt uncomfortable in shorts.

7) Food. Apart from tilapia, other local delicacies include matooki (cooking bananas) which taste like a cross between sweet potato and banana and is a staple carbohydrate, beans and ground nut dishes, plus chicken. I found that (well-off) Ugandans will think there is nothing unusual about having two types of carbohydrate with a meal (matooki and rice for example) which struck me as odd, but perhaps isn't so bananas after all.

<if you laughed at that pun, you're clearly in need of a break from the Internet>

###Conclusion###

Some people go to Africa and fall in love with it. Some people go and vow never to return. I visited what is, by African standards, a small corner of the continent and absolutely loved it. I would love to go back - this time, with my family for a holiday.

Could there be any greater endorsement?


* - For more info, see ICR's website at www.icr.org.uk. Alternatively, keep your eyes peeled for a forthcoming op about ICR and its work.
** Ref - Marathon Man (1976). And if you haven't seen that film, forget about going to Uganda, or anywhere else for that matter, and head down to Blockbusters to rent it TONIGHT. But take my advice - either don't buy anything sweet to eat during the film, or eat it bloody fast. You won't want to visit a dentist for a while.

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