City of Islands (Venice)

Member Name: cathy

Product:	Venice
Date:	14/07/00 (61 review reads)
Rating:

Advantages: Stunning

Disadvantages: Smelly when hot

The original inhabitants built their homes on a series of islands in a lagoon - a pretty good form of defence. It left Venice somewhat cut off from the rest of Italy - and it grew into something strange, exotic and very, very rich. And it still is - Truman Capote said 'Venice is like eating an entire box of chocolate liqueurs in one go'.

Good times to visit

February for Carnevale - 10 days of masked fantasy and fun culminating in the unforgettable climax of masked balls, candlelit boats processing down the Grand Canal and an explosion of fireworks in St Marks Square. Carnevale used to last 2 months - and they call this progress!

May for The Wedding of the Sea - a ritual dating back to pre-history in many cultures. In days of old the Doge rode his golden barge out into the lagoon and threw a golden ring into the water - symbolising the marriage of Venice to the Sea. (Or in even older days gone by, the marriage of the king to the sea goddess). These days you have to settle for the mayor - but it's still a pretty good show.

July for Festa del Redentore - 3rd Sunday in July when the city gives thanks for its deliverance from the plague. (OK that was in 1567 - but they're still grateful, right!)

September for Regatta Storica - Probably the most spectacular festival of all - 1st Sunday in September - an amazing procession of historic boats with beautifully costumed crews, followed by boat racing along the Grand Canal.

Winter is actually a good time to see the city - but it's cold and damp and more of it than usual may be under a foot or two of water - including popular tourist venues.

Bad times to go

Venice is notoriously smelly in high summer - it's not as bad as it used to be - but it still smells. It's also at its busiest during July and August.

More about Venice

There is no traffic! And it's small enough to walk just about everywhere. Obviously,
you will be tempted to try a gondola but expect to pay around £30 per hour. OK for groups (maximum 5 people), or a romantic gesture. Singing gondoliers are extra. Negotiate your price before you embark or you could find yourself paying well over the odds. A bit pricey for everyday travel.

Try the public gondolas - they'll ferry you across the Grand Canal for a mere 30p! On the downside you have to stand up and keep your balance. A much better deal are the cheap and cheerful vaporetti or public water buses whizzing up and down the Grand Canal and round the 118 islands that make up the city centre, some visit outer islands in the lagoon and the Lido beaches. Standard fare of about a pound a trip.

St Mark's Square

At the heart of the city, many pigeons, artists, musicians. Tiny, ancient cafés still charging in gold ducats - nip down the side streets to find reasonable prices. Try the tiny creaking lift up the Campanile that dominates the square. A fabulous way to get a proper look at the city. In fact you can see the entire lagoon. In fact, you can see the Alps on a clear day. Sadly, it fell down in 1902 but was promptly rebuilt. Galileo first demonstrated his hot new invention the telescope up the Campanile - bet that was pretty bloody impressive!

That strange pile of buildings over there is St Mark's Basilica - one of the oddest churches in Europe. 5 domes, 5 doors, vast, dark, glittering interior. You will not be allowed in if you're wearing shorts or anything else 'unsuitable'. Worth digging out a decent outfit for. It's a bit of a robber's den - even the body of St Mark was nicked from Eygpt and smuggled in. Much loot from the Crusades also ended up here.

The pink confection next door is the Doge's Palace - be there when the doors open at 9.00 or you'll be drowned in tourists.

The Grand Canal

Take the 'accelerato' from Piazzale Roma. It will take you
the entire length of the Grand Canal, under the famous Rialto Bridge, past St Mark's and out into the lagoon to the Lido - basically a sandbar beach. This is where Lord Byron liked to go riding.

Other Islands

Murano is a must - home of the famous Venetian glass since the 12th century - and you can watch the same techniques still being used by today's craft workers.

Burano - home of the famous the Venetian lace since the 12th etc. Watch out for the souvenirs here - a lot are machine-made somewhere in Asia. Burano is very picturesque with pretty candy coloured houses skirting the canals.

Food and Drink

Well, you can't move in Venice without tripping over somewhere to eat and/or drink. Not world class cuisine but the fish and sea-food are good. Try Frito Misto if you don't feel very adventurous or risotto alla pescatore if you're up for it. If your only experience of liver is those weird grey school dinner slabs, you must try fegato alla veneziana, a local delicacy of impossibly thin slivers of meat sauteed with thinly sliced onions. Hey - look at that name again! Could this be the origin of the humble faggot? (Pure speculation on my part - it's just struck me).

Great deserts and ice cream available everywhere - in fact Venice is home of the wonderful Tiramisu - but I don't want to talk about that.

Expensive treats

An expresso at Florian's and a bellini cocktail at the famous Harry's Bar near St Mark's. (San Marco).

Good buys

Well all the good stuff is pretty expensive - why not bring back some of the local wine - Soave, Bardolino and Valpolicella.

And the rest

Wander about, cross bridges, go down alleys, get lost - and find Venice for yourself.

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