The Stare Mesto that Refused to Die (Warsaw)

Member Name: Praskipark

Product:	Warsaw
Date:	15/11/08 (161 review reads)
Rating:

Advantages: A Fantastic Reconstruction of a Beautiful Old Town

Disadvantages: Quite busy wiith tourists in July and August

Warsaw Part 1 - Old Town

As I have reviewed the Old Town of Krakow I think it only appropriate that I review Warsaw's Old Town, seeing that I live only 15 mins away and often catch the 13 or 23 tram to the Stare Mesto which stops outside my apartment block. Autumn and Winter are my favourite times to visit; all the visitors have gone and a serenity envelopes the brick walls, walkways, main square and cobbled streets of this immaculate Old Town.

After the war the town was totally destroyed, buried under twenty million cubic metres of rubble it resembled a shattered shell; over half the population had been killed, and 85% of the city raised to the ground. The Old Town had been hit with particular Nazi efficiency, and by the time the Red Army rolled across the river it was little more than a smouldering heap of bricks. To their credit the Capital Reconstruction Bureau chose to rebuild the historic centre, a painstaking process that would last until 1962. Using pre-war sketches, paintings and photographs the Old Town was carefully built, though only at the considerable expense of Poland's 'recovered territories'. Sczecin, for instance, was co-erced into demolishing many of its historic buildings in order to 'donate' an estimated 27 million bricks to Warsaw per day. Although its barely half a century old, Warsaw's historic quarter is an architectural miracle, and a breathing tribute to a city that refused to die.

The best place to begin on your tour of the Old Town is on Plac Zamkowy, and the locals love to meet right under the statue of Zygmunt.There isn't a more popular meeting spot in the city, and in the summer, there's not a minute of the day when the steps to the statue aren't beseiged by dating couples or banjo playing irritants. Erected in 1644 by Zygmunt 111's son, Wladyslaw 1V, the twenty two metre column was originally designed by Italian architects, Augustyn Locci and Constantino Tencalla, and the figure of Aygmunt ranks as Poland's second oldest monument. Local legend asserts that Zygmunt rattles his sabre whenever Warsaw is in trouble, an occurence that was first reported during the 1794 Kosciuszko Uprising and again during World War 11. One fact that can't be disputed is his good fortune. With the Warsaw Uprising in full swing the column took a direct hit from a tank shell and came crashing down. Amazingly Zygmunt survived, losing only his sword, and he was returned to a new perch in 1949. The column he fell off is still knocking around as well, and you can find it lying on its side spitting distance from the Royal Castle.

Moving forward head down Swietojanska to run a gauntlet of buskers, ice cream queues and shoe shine boys. Somewhere amid the melee you'll spot the cathedral, well worth popping into, not least to check out the Baruckowski Crucifix - a 16th century cross renowned for its mysterious powers. Famed in particular for its crypt this neo-Gothic masterpiece also contains art works courtesy of Wit Stwosz, as well as tank tracks on the exterior wall recovered from a remote control German tank used to attack the cathedral in 1944. The overall effect is quite something.

Its hard to believe that by the end of 1944 all before you was just a skeletal set of ruins, but that's exactly what it was. Evidence of this can be viewed on ul. Zapiecka where some black and white photographs show aerial views of the war time devastation. The Old Town's subsequent inclusion on the UNESCO World Heritage List in 1980 is remembered in the form of some cobbled stones set into the ground. As tempting as it is to make a beeline for the main square, the Rynek, save yourself for now. Head instead down ul. Piwna, or Beer Street as it translates. Although there is no evidence of the 15th century breweries that once thrived here you will find a couple of half decent hostelries, though the real reason many visit this street is for a glimpse of St. Martin's Church on ul. Piwna 9/11. This place was utterly annilhilated during the war, and the only fragment to survive was a half-burned figure of Jesus. Since its inception the church has always been linked with theological and political dissent, and this was never more true than in the period of Martial Law, when Solidarity supporters would convene here for both worship and secret meetings. As with the rest of the Old Town, the real beauty of Piwna lies in the details - check out the elaborate paintings and gargoyles that peer from the facades, and don't miss the portal at No. 6. Known locally as Pod Golebiami (and housing a restaurant of the same name), this place acquired its name after the war, when a batty old woman settled in the ruins and made it her calling to look after the flocks of pigeons that stalked around the post-war debris.

Stay on the left flank of the Old Town to check out the area around ul. Piekarska and ul. Rycerska. This area was formerly home to a small square used primarily for executions. Nicknamed Piekarska this is where witches and other bad eggs would be burned at the stake, hung or have their heads lopped off. Marking the end of Piekarska, just outside the old city walls, check out the sword waving figure of Jan Kilinski a legendary Polish patriot and a hero of the 1994 Kosciuszko Uprising.The man who gave his name to that uprising, Tadeusz Kosciuszko ( the same man who would fight with distinction in the American War of Inependence, and would later have Australia's highest peak named after him), lived at Szeroki Dunaj 5. This wide street was formerly home to Warsaw's fish market, while the street running at a 90 degrees angle, Waski Dunaj was the towns original Jewish Quarter back in medieval times. Set in a white arched building at the end of the street is Pub 14, a dark, multi-floored bar which has proved the undoing of more than a couple of student types. Directly behind the wall, and on to Podwale, you'll find one of Warsw's most photographed landmarks; The Monument to the Little Insurgent. Depicting a boy weighed down by a machine gun and outsized hemet the monument honours the memory of the child soldiers who fought and died in the 1944 Warsaw Uprising, and it's not rare to find the bronze statue surrounded by school groups on their day out to the capital.

Follow Podwale as it curves northwards, and if you're feeling peckish at this stage search the radar for signs of Podwale Kompania Piwna at number 25. Resembling a typical European beer hall this place is an absolute legend, with servings of meat and cabbage practically fork-lifted on to tables. At this stage it's fair to say you'll probably be feeling like a python who swallowed a pig, so waddle with care and attention to the Barbakan building, making sure to avoid those annoying street dudes who'll try and lead you to their executioner's block to have your pic snapped. Crowning the set of defensive walls which once protected the city is the Barbakan, a fearsome rotund structure that dates back from 1548 and was apparently the work of a Venetian architect.Today it serves as a bridge between Old and New Town, and is also the hangout of choice for teenagers drinking super-strength lager. In summer tours of the interior are available, and well worth the look if you don't have an aversion to confined spaces. Interestingly the moat that pins the Old Town is another relatively recent addition to Warsaw. The original ditch was filled in back in the 18th century when the defences became obsolete, and the walls were incorporated into the dense tangle of town houses that mushroomed up around. Fragments of these forgotten defences were unearthed in 1937, and a decade later, with Warsaw in ruins, architects took the decision to restore and expose these ancient walls.

It's at this point you'll find your nose pointing straight down ul. Nowomiejska, a street revered for Warsaw's best ice cream - you'll spot the shop in question when you note the queue that often stretches out the door. Continue forward to reach the Old Town Square (Rynek). No matter how often you see it, it can't fail to leave you breathless. The burgher houses that line the square are particularly striking, with many boasting intricate details on the facades. Measuring 90 metres by 73 this square is Warsaw's defining highlight, and presents unlimited ways to squander your money - tourist junk stores, crappy restaurants populated with stuffed animals, and even a strip club on the corner. One place that is worth popping into, even if its just to steal the cutlery, is U Fukiera at number 27. The culinary tradition here dates from 1810 when the Fuker family turned this place into Warsaw's top winery. Today the restaurant is in the hand's of the Gessler's and their guest list reads something of a Who's Who of stage and screen. Culture vulture or not, don't miss the chance to visit the Historical Museum of Warsaw. Not only will you come away with an encyclopaedic knowledge of the city(like me), but you might end up trading blows and insults with one of the curators who snoops in your wake.

Back outside take time to slalom past the parasols and beer umbrellas to check out the centre of the square. In the 15th century this was occupied by a town hall, though this was pulled down in 1817 and never replaced. Instead, today you'll find a couple of water pumps dating from the 19th century, as well as Warsaw's best loved monument - Syrenka. Cast in 1855 this mermaid's form graces every bus, tram and coat of arms you'll find in the capital. You're also liable to run into a platoon of street artists. Most famous of the lot is Piotr Bol, a weird, cloaked little man who plays one of Europe's last music boxes with a parrot alongside him. But for real comedy gold check out the mime artists who stand in frozen posture - a few years back one such chap, dressed as a monk, collapsed after a marathon booze binge leaving his giant genitals exposed to the world.

Leaving the square head down ul. Kamienne Schodki. Not only is this the longest stairwell in the Old Town, it is also where Napoleon stood in 1806, pensively staring eastward on the eve of his campaign on the plains of Russia. From here walk south down ul. Brzozowa until you reach the grassy bank that offers sweeping views of the River Wisla. Known as Gnojna Gora (Compost Hill), this small knoll once served as the town rubbish dump, and at one stage was also renowned for its healing properties - this is where the rich would come to be buried up to their necks in rubbish in a supposed cure for syphillis.

Head back towards the Old Town by walking towards ul. Dawna, whose trademark blue archway is one of the most picturesque sights in the city. Finally, conclude your epic walking tour by swerving on to ul. Kanonia. Once a graveyard, this small little square features a cracked cathedral bell recovered from the war time debris, as well as what is touted as the worlds narrowest house at number 20/22. Close by, note the covered walkway linking the cathedral to the castle. This was built after a failed assassination attempt on Zygmunt 111. The King escaped unmolested, but the hapless hitman, Michal Piekarski, found himself skinned alive, stretched by four horses and then chopped into pieces with an axe. And on that happy note, consider your tour at an end.

Summary: One of the prettiest old town's in Poland