A mixed bag - crass yet classy (Warsaw)

Member Name: reknaw

Product:	Warsaw
Date:	01/04/01 (91 review reads)
Rating:

Advantages: Discover a hidden European jewel

Disadvantages: Some bits need more hiding

I spent five days in Warsaw not so long ago, and still remains one of the most characteristically unique place I have travelled to - Warsaw is much like a a city in a blender.

Historically speaking, it has many fine features, including an incredible Old Town Square, complete with cobbles and cobblers. Sadly, much of the Old Town was wiped out by Hitler's short sojourn, but what is left is clearly cherished and well kept. The Museum of Warsaw in the Old Town is poor by western museum standards, but kept me highly amused. A shortage of funds for electricity/ security, they instead had elderlypolish ladies, who knit furiously as they watch you from room to room, and turn the lights on and off accordingly. This sort of behaviour will seem surreal on your first day in Warsaw, but quite normal on your last.

It is not the cleanest city - it still feels very industrial, and the replacing concrete monsters don't improve the ambience much. There seems an obsession with western football teams and rap that features heavily in the Polish graffiti, but at least this beats "Tina 4 Kev". There are some problems with the homeless, but not to the point of harassment (generally, they cry on the pavement). The main characters to watch are men very early in the morning - they are usually blasted. If in doubt, travel in pairs, or use the excellent tram system.

Ah yes, the transport. Shortly after the war, the Russians asked if Poland wanted anything, to help stabilise the capital. Poland asked for a tube system, Russia said no chance, have a hideous grey building instead. Thus, the Warsaw Monument. Universally hated by natives, it still offers fantastic views over Warsaw and the surrounding countryside. This may seem peculiar, but Warsaw really does end up in countryside faster than you think.

The locals give the air of being slightly wary of Europeans of non-slavic descent, almost a "what are you doing here for?" look often
greets you, when trying to point out which cigarettes you want from the many kiosks dotted around the city.

(As an incidental note, one ex-pat told me a story about a cheapo cigarette factory that actually put wood scrapings in their fags. When a new company took over and stopped this practice, smokers wrote in and complained.)

The food is fair in quality and fantastic in price. Most of it is as you would imagine a Germanic/ Baltic mix would be - lots of sausages. THe foods are often accompanied by heartily boiled vegetables, but since you won't have a clue what you are ordering, who cares. The supermarkets are like dodgy 7-11 shops, which sell all sorts of things (I saw guns in one, Sainsburys potatoes in another), but because of a good economy, you needn't bother cooking yourself. A good meal for four people will rarely cost more than £15 in total, allowing for drinks.

Yes, you read that right, Poland is superb for those on a budget. The Zloty is beginning to stabilise, but is still a bit cuckoo, so use this to your advantage. It is more practical to take US dollars, as they are seen as a second currency. NEVER exchange with someone on the street - you will be ripped off. Use a bank or hotel. On the subject of avoiding dodgy types, don't take a taxi from the airport - it is literally a 15 bus ride to the city centre, and is foolsplay to do.

If you want to have a cheap trip involving exploration, culture, cold spas and unbelievable hangovers, go to Warsaw. If nothing else, it will give you about 100 stories to tell your friends that they'll actually find interesting.

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