A fascinating trip viewing China from the River. (Yangtze River Cruise)

Member Name: garymarsh6

Product:	Yangtze River Cruise
Date:	19/10/09 (138 review reads)
Rating:

Advantages: Relaxing and interesting.

Disadvantages: Went to fast.

Yangtze River Cruise.


The Yangtze River is the longest river in China and the third longest river in the world. It rises in Tibet and flows for 2300 kilometres through China down to near Shanghai. It is called the Chang Jiang River by the Chinese which means Long River. There are many small rivers and streams that flow into the Yangtze and every year there used to be terrible floods which cost the Chinese hundreds in human lives due to the sever flooding.

One of the most picturesque landscapes is around the area known as the three gorges called the Qutang Gorge, Wu Gorge and Xiliong Gorge with very high cliffs on either side. Along the side tributaries and small rivers there were many beautiful little villages and farmsteads.

Due to Chinas booming population and the requirement for energy it was decided to build a massive dam which would not only provide hydro electric power but would also prevent the annual flooding of the plains. Over 33,000 people were killed in 1954 in one of the worst floods in history and more recently 1000s of deaths occurred in different floodings. However there were millions of people living in villages, towns and cities which would become flooded by the rising waters from the river.

We went on the cruise before the completion of the Dam and all away along the river there were sign posts with measures on it showing where the level of water would rise once the dam was operational. It was horrifying to see whole villages and towns would be wiped out and covered by the rising flood waters lost for ever because of the Dam. There was a monumental task of re-housing and relocating literally millions of people from their homes. Some went voluntarily and others were forcibly removed from their homes. As we traversed the Yangtze River we could see that the buildings were literally being stripped of all reusable stuff like wood, glass and metals. Some of the buildings were then razed to the ground so that they did not cause a hazard to shipping. People who were used to living in the open countryside and have lived in little farmsteads perhaps for hundreds of years now found themselves living in huge impersonally built tower blocks. So not only had they lost their livelihoods they also lost the beautiful countryside in which they lived only to be put up in an alien urban environment. The pros and cons of this are another subject altogether.


The cruises.

You can start your cruise in Chongqing in the far west of China all the way down to Shanghai in the Eastern coastal area or join it in Wuhan or Lichang. Chongqing is an absolutely massive sprawling city whose population is approximately 32 million people. Imagine half the population of the UK living in one city it is very hard and beyond comprehension to understand this concept.

We joined our cruise in Lichang although we were staying in Wuhan the capital of Hubei province. This involved a seven hour coach transfer between the two cities. China is an absolutely vast country and distances between the major cities is quite long.

The different boats that ply the river include luxury 5* cruising boats with all modern comforts down to not so luxurious local ferry boats to transport people up and down to all places. There are river buses and river taxis and it is not unusual to see people standing beside the river seemingly in the middle of nowhere waiting for a river bus or taxi to take them to one of the cities.

The Yangtze River is very much a working river and you can see all sorts of commodities being moved from one place to another from food, vegetables, livestock, cars, coal, coal and all sorts of things. It is constantly in use. One major use is for the tour boats which pass some very beautiful scenery, towns and villages.

Our boat was called the MV Pingu and was absolutely beautiful. When we reached the boat we were welcomed aboard by the crew who were standing on the quayside banging drums and a giving a dragon dance display. This happened every time we boarded or left the ship. All crew members lined the gang planks and walk ways greeting us as we boarded or alighted the ship. We given our room keys and had an hour to get ready for the compulsory safety briefing and everyone had to report to the reception area wearing their life jacket stowed in the wardrobe of the cabin.

The room was quite large with panoramic windows. There was a shower and toilet and a small television although we never used it. The room had adequate storage facilities with a wardrobe, a mini bar, two arm chairs, a lamp and coffee table. A fresh flask of hot water was available to make tea and coffee which was replenished throughout the day.

The boat had the following facilities. Two bars, a gym, large restaurant, a ball room a massage and sauna treatment area and a gift shop. There were observation decks both at the front and rear of the boat and also on the top deck.
The boat was nicely decorated in gold and red colours with tasteful ornaments here and there.

The first evening we were invited to the Captains welcome banquet which consisted of local specialities and delicacies. Unfortunately most of the food was prepared in aspic and was of a very slimy consistency which none of the passengers were able to eat or stomach. Sadly most of the banquet was wasted as none of us could eat it.

Each table of 8 people were allocated a waitress who was always at our elbows waiting to help us or offer us more drinks or food. For some reason the young lady took a shine to me and where ever we were she was always there smiling and waving. Her name was apple and she was a delightful young lady. Embarrassingly the captain observed that none of us were eating the food provided but being oh ever so polite and not wishing to offend we did not complain or create a fuss. This did not go un noticed.

After a couple of night caps we went to our cabin to be told that at 02:30 we would be passing through the Yangtze River Dam and for those who wanted to witness it would receive a phone call. Although we were shattered we did not want to miss this opportunity so we reluctantly got up at 02:15 and threw on some clothes to go upstairs to witness the boat passing through the locks. Several boats entered the lock at the same time then the rear lock gate closed and they began to fill up the lock with water. It took about 20 minutes before the water was at the same level as the lock in front then the lock gate opened and we moved forward into the next lock. Altogether there are five locks to go through and in total it takes four hours to get through. After the first lock we all returned to bed and slept till 06:30 to get up for breakfast.


After breakfast we were taken by coach to have a look at the Dam. The Yangtze River dam is the biggest dam in the world and was completed and operational in 2008. We had visited it in 2007 before its completion and we did say that we would like to return to see the effect of the dam had on the local areas. There are 32 generators producing electricity through the movement of water through the dam. This year alone the dam has prevented mass loss of life due to the massive flooding that would have occurred had the dam not been built.

There are two sets of five locks that take boats up and down through the dam. They are also building a hydraulic lift which will move a ship from the base of the dam to the top in about 40 minutes saving at least 3 hours. The ships capacity will be around about 3000 tons so quite large ships can be moved in the lift. I don't think it has finished being built yet. The area is surrounded by electricity pylons that carry the electricity away from the Dam. It is quite a picturesque area and a little park and viewing area to the right of the dam that allows you to see how magnificent the Dam is.


At lunch time we returned to the ship to be welcomed aboard. I think there had been a hasty change in the menu as they offered us for lunch a western style diet of pizza, fish, ham, chips, and a variety of salads. I think the captain had felt sorry for us after none of us ate anything the night before. During lunch the boat set sail on its course up the Yangtze river.

The three gorges.

Xiling Gorge was one of the most dangerous parts of the river due to dense reefs and shaoly waters. After many years of engineering and conservation it has improved the flow of water so that it is safer and less wild. The gorge here is absolutely massive with sheer rocks rising up high above you on either side. In the cliffs are burial tombs where people used to bury the dead. Some are very high up in the cliff face and would make it very difficult to reach.

Wu Gorge is perhaps the prettiest parts of the Dam. We stopped at Wushan where we transferred to a smaller water bus for a side trip up one of the side tributary rivers. As we progressed up the river we passed isolated little farmsteads with local farmers and their families tending the cattle and livestock they had. The area was so peaceful and relaxing and as carried on the water became shallower and shallower. We came to another point where we had to transfer into even smaller boats to traverse the very shallow river. Along the sides of the river were people walking goats, gathering wood etc at one point we passed a couple of people singing. On the return trip the pilot of the boat sang some traditional songs. None of which we could understand infact it sounded very much as if it was a chicken being strangled. I have never heard such awful singing in my life and even today I think he had the worst voice I have ever heard. This little trip was very beautiful and the surrounding area was very scenic. It seems such a shame that once the valleys were flooded what we had seen it would no longer be seen again in the same state.

Finally the Qutang gorge again the sheer mountain sides rise again on both sides of the river. We reach the town of Fengdu known as the city of ghosts. We got off the boat and were taken to the base of the mountain side. We passed the town which had been stripped of all recoverable and reusable materials some of the flats were being demolished. This was like a ghost town in itself. We started to climb the mountain first crossing over a high bridge and then up a small lane gradually going up the hill towards the Temple at Fengdu. Reaching the temple which is quite beautiful and affords wonderful views over the valleys below and the Great Yangtze river. The temple is dedicated to the dead. On one side of the temple hidden from general view is a caged display of tortured people some of which methods of execution were horrific. People being lowered into great vats of burning metal and other liquids, People being cut open whilst still alive and people being sliced in half by large saws. It was not a very nice sight but quite interesting however the terror on peoples faces was quite obviously demonstrated in the statues. There is a beautiful black pagoda on the edge of the mountain which gives brilliant views across the valley. In all there are over 70 temples dotted around the mountains at Fengdu and 0ver 70 cemeteries and is the only ghost city in China. There are statues all over the local mountains to Buddha and a massive one on one of the higher mountains.


We continued the journey up the river where we finally reached Chongqing our final stop and destination. This city is really very big. We visited the local market and witness all kinds of animals for sale and for people to buy. In the fish part of the market fish were killed in front of the shopper and gutted so that they could take them home to cook. There were all kinds of vegetables some familiar and some not so. There were different types of eggs and eels cheeses milk anything and everthing you could think of. There were even snakes for sale to eat.Our interpreter joked saying that the Chinese will eat anything with or without legs. The only thing they will not eat is the dining table!

We visited the local city Zoo and saw some pandas who were lying around in their pens we not only saw the familiar black and white ones but also the very rare red pandas.

All in all I enjoyed out trip up the Yangtze river and would love to return there just to compare the difference since the completion of the dam. I am sure that the landscape has changed dramatically since the completion of the Dam as so many towns and villages have disappeared and are now under the waters of the great Yangtze river. I would love to return one day to see how it looks today.

Summary: A lovely trip on the magnificent and powerful Yangtze river