When Santa needs a break (Lake District)

Member Name: gollygumdrops

Product:	Lake District
Date:	26/10/01 (309 review reads)
Rating:

Advantages: Outstanding beauty

Disadvantages: M6

After the excesses of Christmas where I usually spend time with the extended family, eating and drinking myself into a human pudding, I like to get away and chill over the New Year. There is nowhere better than the 'greatest lakes'. OK, so they are not as big as Michigans, but what Cumbria lacks in size, it more than compensates for in splendor.

Reaching the English lakes is never easy, most people head up on the M6 -a giant parking lot where people go to swear at each other. In the summertime roads into the area are constantly blocked with sheer weight of traffic exacerbated by slow moving caravans, a curiously English dated excuse for a Winnebago. In the final days of December though traffic moves more freely and tempers are less frayed.

In the South Lakes Coniston is my preferred spot. This village is by no means untouched by tourism, but it retains a more realistic feel than nearby Windermere. Much of the property in the area has been sold off as second homes so some areas can feel a little odd out of season, but Coniston has done well to retain some housing stock purely for full time residents. It has a school, and many of the residents are employed locally in the mining industry.

You can stay in the two main pubs in the village, the Black Bull which boasts four poster beds, and the slightly more homely Sun Inn, above the village. Both inns make much of their links to the Campbells world speed record-breaking family, Malcolm Campbell lost his life whilst attempting to break the World water speed record on Coniston Water. Rather tastelessly when his body was recently found he was brought to the surface, only to be put in a coffin and dropped back in. The words 'rest in peace' clearly don't apply.

Other, cheaper options for accommodation are the wide range of family run bed and breakfast houses in the village, and hardier folk than me can camp in the grounds of Coniston Manor. The camping option does hav
e the benefit of affording incredible views of the lake, and its own private beach, which is at its best at sunrise.

After the festive excesses I like to stock up with a hearty breakfast and take my bike for a trip around the lake. At roughly 27 miles it doesn't sound too arduous but the route is hilly and taking a clockwise route from the village the home stretch will see you cycling up into the clouds which is a great feeling, but as the air thins your lungs do feel the cold. The exertion and good gloves should keep the rest of your body warm.

The outward trip takes you past the house of John Ruskin, Victorian writer, critic and oddball. This is a popular spot in the summer as the gardens are beautiful and you can enjoy a cream tea, but on New Years it's closed, so take a flask! Parts of the route are pretty lonely at this time of year, and although mobile reception isn't too bad, I usually make sure I have phones from two networks, and some brightly coloured clothing along with liquids.

If you time your itinerary correctly you can reach your first pub, high up in the 'Old Man of Consiton' hill at around 11am, just after opening time! If your trip is on a Sunday or Bank (national) Holiday check ahead as the pubs don't open until 12. On the road back down you will hit a pub on your left, stop in for a warming pint, carry further down the hill and stop into the Black Bull. Here you can enjoy locally brewed 'Bluebird Bitter', named after Malcolm Campbells boat. Settle down in front of the log fire and warm up as you dry out as you are guaranteed rain, or at least a thick mist.

For braver individuals the North Lakes are more dramatic, but also more barren. My favorite area in the north is Wast Water. This is a frighteningly deep lake, so clean and pure that it is devoid of life. It is the deepest lake and sits next to Englands highest peak, Scafell Pike. This area is less suitable for biking as the
ground is easily torn up and cyclists can do a lot of damage.

If you are coming to Wastdale get your walking boots on, and wear waterproofs. They breed 'em tough up here so its not a great place to walk in the wintertime if you don't walk all year, and mountain rescue do not appreciate calls over the holidays from people who are stranded because their new boots hurt, or they became disoriented in the mist.

For more sedate folk it is very pleasant simply to walk the valley area, until the bar at the Wastdale Head opens. You can stay at the pub, but it gets booked up quickly for the holidays. They serve good local beer, the Jennings is excellent. The lakes offer a heavy dark winter beer which is filling and very strong, so take your time. The pub offers a range of meals from sandwiches up, and I recommend the chilli to warm you through. Completely insane individuals, or those rendered senseless by the beer can camp cheaply in the National Trust campgrounds. These do offer superb views of Scafell Pike in the morning.

So, if the Christmas indulgence gets too much, pack your warm waterproofs and hop on a plane, Manchester is the nearest international airport, and tour the lakes. There is nothing like the cool, clean, misty air and a few good pints to clear your head before another year of work!

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