The Secret Kingdom (Northumberland)

Member Name: robinlawrie

Product:	Northumberland
Date:	15/06/01 (139 review reads)
Rating:

Advantages: Breathtaking Scenery, Unspoilt

Disadvantages: cold N/E wind at times

The majority of you will know Northumbria as a place “up there somewhere” in the far off North East of England where we talk funny, and are always wrapped up warm. It is a place that you drive through on your way to Scotland and never give a second thought to. If you are on a train, possibly you may wonder for a moment at the sight of all the wide unpopulated beaches, then drop your nose once again into your book and forget all about it.

Let me introduce you to the secret kingdom of Northumbria, and for centuries it was indeed a kingdom in its own right, it was in fact two kingdoms, those of Benicia and Deria and formed in the 7th century. The border wars fought in the 14th to 16th century have left us with more castles than any other English county. If to these are added the numerous “bastles” and pele” towers (fortified towers and buildings) the number grows to several hundred (please don’t ask me to count them.) All are in various states of repair from a pile of stones in the corner of a field to the splendour of Bamburgh castle, which is lived in to this day.

Why, you may ask, with all of these miles of golden sands are there none of the usual seaside attractions? The answer is quite simple. It is freezing cold for most of the year. The Northeasterly wind makes it inadvisable to strip off, even in the middle of summer. The upside of this is that it is possible to walk these beaches, and appreciate the unspoilt beauty of the Northumbria coastline.

The land gradually rising towards the West and the Cheviot hills, is not a mountain range I will admit, only reaching 2674ft, but hills that hold countless stories of battles long ago between the English and Scottish. Every field seems to hold its own secret with rhymes passed down such as “Flodden for stones and Scotsmen’s bones” which relates to one particular battle in 1513 where an estimated 30,000 Scots were k
illed including twelve earls, fifteen lords, an archbishop and most importantly King James himself. To this day ploughing the field brings up remnants of the battle. There are however very few, if any, signs of any major Scottish success anywhere in Northumbria, this could be due to the fact that the English would tend not to want to remember it, or that the Jocks were crap at fighting…. just joking honest:-)

To the South West, the county is bordered by Hadrian’s Wall, with its various forts and fortifications. Built by the Romans to keep out the warlike Northumbrian’s it backs up my theory that all you lot south of the Tyne are a bunch of sissies, for letting a handful of Italians in short skirts walk all over you.

Details of all the towns and villages are on the web at http://www.northumberland.gov.uk/VG/default.htm

Here are a few of my favourites.

•Berwick on Tweed.
Berwick has the most complete set of Tudor town walls in Europe. A fact that has made no difference to being stormed by both the Scottish and English at various times in history, with the result that in the past the town has changed hands with some regularity, leaving the locals with a Scottish dialect, football team in Scotland and an English M.P. It is also believed that the town was left out of a peace treaty signed by England and consequently is still at war with Russia.


•Lindisfarne.
Otherwise known as Holy Island, is the cradle of Christianity in this country, beginning with the coming of Saint Aidan in 635AD and the building of the Priory. Also on the island is the beautiful Lindisfarne castle. The island is accessible by the use of a causeway, and is situated in the Lindisfarne National Nature Reserve. This is only possible between tides so a strict timetable is advisable if you intend visiting.


•Bamburgh.
Not only is Bamburgh famous for its spectacular castle, but
also for being the home of Grace Darling. She was a household name in Victorian times because of her bravery in rescuing 9 people from the steamship Forfarshire. On a stormy night in 1838, she accompanied her father in a rowing boat and brought the survivors to safety. Forty crew and passengers drowned before Grace could get to them. Today there is a museum in her honour in the village.


•Wooler.
Otherwise known as the gateway to the Cheviots, is situated in the parish of Glendale and was the inspiration for Postman Pat in the fictional village of “Greendale”. Author John Cuncliffe worked in Wooler in the 1950’s. It is an ideal centre for exploring the Cheviot hills and a favourite place for walkers who seem a hardier breed than most and tend not to let a little wind and rain spoil their enjoyment.


•Alnwick.
Pronounced “Annick” and home to the magnificent Alnwick castle, with its statues of soldiers on the battlements, gives the appearance of a fully defended fortress. Alnwick also holds a medieval fair once a year where the whole town joins in. A pub here called the Cross Keys has on display a set of “dirty bottles” in the window, which legend has it are cursed so that anyone attempting to touch them dies on the spot. Any takers?


•Chillingham.
Here is the home of the famous Chillingham white cattle, the herd of wild cattle that used to roam free, and another marvellous castle.


I hope this has given you a taster for Northumbria, still unspoilt by tourism, but only a matter of time before this changes. If you decide to visit, remember don’t leave it too long and remember to wrap up warm.

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