Ruggedly Attractive! (Robin Hood's Bay)

Member Name: tange

Product:	Robin Hood's Bay
Date:	12/07/05 (1759 review reads)
Rating:

Advantages: Pretty, stunning views and a good range of shops and pubs.

Disadvantages: Very hilly...not for the less mobile.

We have just (boo hoo) returned from our yearly trip to Whitby. This invariably involves a few trips out to pubs and villages in the surrounding countryside and around the coast. On the last day of our lovely week we decided to revisit Robin Hoods Bay ~ a favourite haunt. We usually go to have a wander around the shops and have a little stroll on the beach, so this is really going to concentrate on these aspects rather then on the museums, etc (although I will tell you some of what else there is to do!).

~~~WHERE IS ROBIN HOODS BAY?

This lovely little fishing village is built down a steep hill around a bay to the south of Whitby and north of Scarborough, in North Yorkshire. We usually either get there by bus (the Arriva service 93 goes from Whitby bus station about every half hour) or by car.

My top tip if you are going by bus is to make sure you DON’T catch the 93a because this is the one that avoids Robin Hoods Bay! My top tip by car is to park in the first car park you reach. There is a car park a little nearer but this one is a lot smaller. The first park is larger, has public toilets and doesn’t get as busier as the one directly at the top of the hill down to the village.

Parking costs £2.00 for up to four hours and £4.00 for a day. We usually just park for four hours because we haven’t stayed long enough to warrant the full day. I read that if you are staying for longer you can buy parking permits from the Post Office. There is no parking in the village itself and the roads are very steep and narrow ~ not really suitable for anyone who is a little less mobile.

~~~WHAT DO WE DO IN ROBIN HOODS BAY?

***Walking***

There are two ways up and down to and from the sea. One goes down the “main” road and winds around between the pretty cottages, meandering until you reach the jetty and the sand at the bottom. This is a very nice walk down, but a little steep on the way back up. There are quite a few cobbles, some steps and a VERY narrow road with little or no pavement on the sides. I prefer to walk back up this way because I have the excuse of calling in at the craft, antique, gift and book shops for a rest on the way. We usually also call in for a drink in the pubs on the way ~ but more about that later!

The second way up and down skirts the coast and goes down towards the beach. It isn’t quite as steep as the road way but (apart from the views out to sea) there isn’t as much to do on this way ~ no shops and nothing until you reach the ice cream van at the bottom (damn good ice creams though!). This is way I prefer to use to go down ~ it is quicker and there are no cars! My only word of warning is that this path gets a bit slippery if you go in wet weather.

***The Beach***

The lower half of the village is called the Old Bay and is the original part of Robin Hoods Bay. This has lots of little cottages all higgledy piggledy, leading down the sea edge. There is no sea front or promenade to walk along. You will come to a pub at the bottom and the jetty going down to the sand. The sea goes out quite a way exposing seaweed and rock pools. During the summer months there seems to be a lot of school visits and there is a study centre too, so don’t expect there to be only you wandering on the sands!

This used to be a big fishing village, but there are only a few boats now ~ it is still quite interesting to look at the boats. Although packed with tourists this is still a working place ~ so bear the poor residents in mind when you are peering through the cottage windows and coming home after a drink or two.

***The Shops***

For somewhere of this size there are actually quite a few varied little shops. There are no supermarkets of course (they wouldn’t fit down the hillside), but there are some creditable general stores for anyone going in the self catering cottages and a good selection of touristy shops. There are also a couple of cafes and places to get snacks.

I love looking in the little antique and craft shops and I could happily get lost in the book shops for hours ~ they are crammed full of second hand books and I always hope that I will find some gem lurking among the old shelves. On our last visit to the shops we went in a little craft shop and my friend bought a wonderful soft toy for her granddaughter ~ a cute looking thing with a heart shaped wooden tag that they personalized with the child’s name.

There are also some good stores selling preserves, country wines and souvenirs ~ a bit more expensive than ordinary jams and the like, but excellent gifts and mementoes of your trip to this lovely village.

***The Buildings***

At first look it is quite amazing to think that a village built up on such a slope. Some of the houses look as though it is a bit of an effort to cling on to the side and not tumble down into the bay! Looking at the cottages is free and the little cobbled alleyways seem to have come from a bygone age. St. Stephen’s Church is a 19th Century gem and the churchyard is well worth a wander round ~ it open Wednesday to Sunday from 10 til 4 during June to the end of September.

The sea wall isn’t the prettiest thing in the world but if you wander on the beach take a look ~ it is a monster of a structure and serves as a reminder of the power of the tide! The Old Coastguard station at the bottom of the village houses an education and exhibition centre ~ entry is free, but we didn’t get inside because it was fill to bursting with schoolchildren!

***The Pubs***

As Real Ale fans we tend to take the Good Beer Guide with us and select our pubs from the ones in there. It isn’t infallible, but it usually helps us find some nice places to drink and often have a good meal. It didn’t let us down on this trip. We went in the two listed pubs ~ one just for a drink and the other for lunch and a drink. There are a couple of other pubs (including the one right at the bottom near the sea), but we reached them before opening time so couldn’t check them out!

The first pub, called The Dolphin, is on King Street (a short way up the hill) and served a good selection of beers. The food menu looked inventive and interesting, but it was only 11.30am and we weren’t quite ready to eat. The only downside to The Dolphin is that it is rather pricey ~ a pint of Old Peculier (granted it is quite a strong beer) came in at £2.90 a pint! It is a nice atmospheric little pub with beams and interesting little knick-knacks, but I did think the prices were a little OTT even in a tourist resort.

The high prices were highlighted when we had (puffing a little) reached The Victoria Hotel (at the top of the hill between the two car parks) on Station Road. This seemed little posher with outside seating areas and a restaurant, but the prices were much better. A pint of Camerons Strongarm beer was just £2.00 a pint and was extremely tasty indeed (it was MY round too so that was a result!).

We were ready for a meal after our walking and a quick look at the food menu was a great surprise. The menu was varied (snacks, deserts and big meals were offered) and main course were around 6 to 8 quid (more for steaks). I had mushroom, walnut and chestnut crepes and was amazed by the huge portions that arrived ~ none our party managed to finish our meals!


~~~TIME TO GO HOME!

From the Victoria there was a just a short walk back to the car (even shorter if we had parked in the smaller car park) and time to go back to Whitby. Our visit to Robin Hoods Bay had once again been a treat. It was sunny (which always helps) and not too busy so we were able to browse in the shops and get a meal without feeling rushed or too crowded.

The only downsides to the village are the prices and the lack of access for anyone who can’t manage hills and cobbles. We don’t find this a problem, but it does mean you have to make sure that you make arrangements to nip someone down in the car, drop them off, go back up and park and then go and get the car to pick them up later. It is do-able, but not ideal!

We didn’t go to Robin Hoods Bay last September because my friend had only recently recovered from breaking her ankle and she couldn’t manage the walk back up the hill….just something to bear in mind when planning a visit.

The beach is lovely, but is a little difficult to get down to if it has been raining because the jetty can get a little slippery. There is just the one ice cream van at the bottom and no amusements, so if you are taking children make sure it is going to be a nice day otherwise you may find that little ones can get a bit bored ~ I would say that, as a holiday destination, Robin Hoods Bay is best for couples who enjoy a relaxing place, browsing in shops and stepping back in time!

I’m pretty sure we will be visiting again in the future and I thoroughly recommend that you put it on your itinerary if you are visiting North Yorkshire. It is beautiful place and well worth the walk!

Summary: A lovely place to visit!