A Stress-free Holiday or a weekend break. (Royal Forest of Dean)

Member Name: QueenElf

Product:	Royal Forest of Dean
Date:	21/01/06 (1023 review reads)
Rating:

Advantages: Plenty to see and do for all the family.

Disadvantages: None.

I’m very fortunate to live within visiting distance of areas of natural beauty. Many people are unaware of the sights around them, but this is something I have never taken for granted and once again I would like to share part of this beauty with you. Some may think the ideal time to review this area would be in summer or autumn, but spring in The Royal Forest of Dean brings its own particular brand of magic and as an added bonus there is a natural phenomenon nearby which must be seen to be believed.
My aim is to give an overview of the area rather than go into a lot of detail that can be found in abundance on the Internet. Some local history cannot be ignored but I’ll try to keep it as simple as possible, otherwise you’d be reading this for days to come.

The actual forest itself.
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This was once a royal forest that was kept for the royalty only who used to hunt here but its history goes back a long time before the monarchy was established. The area, which is now Gloucester and the surrounding counties of Herefordshire, Monmouth and parts of Wales, was once one vast forest where a squirrel could jump from one tree to another. This is born out by the many coaching Inns, which still retain some of their original names, e.g. The Kings Arms, The Greyhound Inn, and The Forester’s Oaks etc.
In the heart of the forest iron ore was mined here for nearly 3000 years and the necessary process of charcoal burning dates back to 450BC. That’s so hard to imagine but visitors can still view this ancient process that carried on until about fifty years ago.
One of the most impressive places to visit is “Clearwell Caves”, once an incredible system of underground tunnels and chambers caused by the extraction of iron ore, its now open from 1st March to 31st October and is one of the most popular visitor sites.

Despite the use of the forest for the King’s hunting, iron ore was needed and over the years little groups of peasant huts encroached on the forest giving rise to the many tiny villages which can be found in and around the forest limits. This also brought many churches to the area and today’s visitor have a choice of 42 churches to look around, some very old and others much newer but still well worth a visit for people who are interested in history.

The Royal Forest of Dean.
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This became a national park in the year 1938 and covers an astounding 110 square acres of woodland. It lies between the rivers Wye and Severn and although the main area is in Gloucester the Wye Valley meanders through the surrounding counties of Herefordshire, Monmouth and borders on parts of South-east Wales. Visitors may find this confusing but the Wye Valley alone with it’s many places of interest forms part of the forest area. Where the forest peters out lofty castles and ancient ruins abound. It’s not hard to imagine the vast age of the area when Megalith sites can be found in the forest itself.

It’s not a place that can be visited in one day and the intrepid explorer can choose from a wide variety of accommodation. From large hotels to B & B’s, campsites to Youth Hostels and even places where you can pitch your own caravan or tent, this area offers a plethora of choice for all budgets. With so many nearby large towns and the city of Newport, there is no reason not to indulge yourself if you don’t want to “rough it”. (More on accommodation later).

Activities and places of interest.
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Much of the forest is easily accessible and doesn’t cost anything to explore on foot, bike or car. There are plenty of leaflets available in the information centres or go online to plan your holiday. Walking holidays are extremely popular here and the routes are clearly mapped out from beginner status to seasoned walkers. I would advise a car though to get the best out of sightseeing. Many visitors choose to stay at little guesthouses or park in one of the many sites deep in the heart of the forest. The village of Parkend is a very popular site situated in one of the best places to explore the forest and the surrounding area. There’s a good museum here and the locals can tell a few stories about the rural life. I stayed at a small guesthouse here a few years ago and was delighted with everything. My room had a canopied bed and the bathroom had a choice of a bath or shower. Little sachets of bath products, shampoo and even ladies essentials made this a home from home. I stayed there in autumn and witnessed a very old ritual in a local pub, the traditional baked harvest loaf was part of a raffle along with local produce, and all proceeds went to charity. The winner of the harvest loaf (a huge plaited piece of craftsmanship) generously cut it in pieces and served it to everyone there along with homemade pate and preserves. The entertainment was provided by a local band and yes, there was a fiddler!

There is much to see and do in the forest but no stay would be complete without at least one of the following day-trips.

1). Tintern Abbey.

Following the River Wye from Chepstow for a few miles the road twists and turns until it widens and the vista of Tintern Abbey is revealed in a blaze of glory. Founded in 1131 by the Cistercian monks it’s turbulent history cumulated in the dissolution of monasteries under Henry V111. Set against a background of wooded hills the ruins still stand proud and attract visitors from all over the world.
Many famous artists have painted the ruins but Turner’s painting is the best known, a swirl of light and atmosphere.
William Wordsworth visited here as part of a trip around the area and penned one of his well-known poems that captures the spirit of the hills and the rolling River Wye.

Five years have past; five summers with the length
Of five long winters! and again I hear
These waters, rolling from their mountain-springs
With a soft inland murmer. - Once again
Do I behold these steep and lofty cliffs,
That on a wild secluded scene impress
Thoughts of more deep seclusion; and connect
The landscape with the quiet of the sky.

Wiliam Wordsworth. 1798.

Inspired words indeed.

2). Symonds Yat.

Passing through Monmouth take a turn into Symonds Yat West just before entering the town of Ross-on –Wye. This is a unique beauty spot, which is divided into east and west and lies on a five-mile bend in the river offering the visitor a whole day out in this rich wooded valley.
The west side is the more commercial with attractions that include boat trips, white water rafting and canoeing. For the less sporty person there are walks along the river and many little pubs overlooking the river. Visit the Japanese gardens or wander through the maze, arriving back in time to sample lunch or dinner in The Old Court Hotel. This is an experience itself with Tudor beams in the lounge and four-poster beds for those who want to stay in a listed building. Non-residents can enjoy a pint in the bar and sample some of the inexpensive local cuisine.

For a totally different experience take the road to the east side and park your car within walking distance to the Yat rock, a limestone outcrop 500 feet above sea level and look for miles around. Watch through the viewers provided and see the Peregrine falcons as they leave their nests to hunt for food. Picnic in the forest but beware the climb, its not accessible at the moment to disabled people.

3). The Severn Bore.
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This is where the rivers Wye and Severn empty into the Bristol Channel and at the spring and autumn equinox produce the spectacle that is called the Severn Bore. The estuary has the 2nd highest tidal range in the world and the sight can never be forgotten. The next bore can be seen between the 1st and 3rd of March and viewing points are mainly free of charge. For the places that do charge it’s wise to book early as people flock to see it.
As the raging Spring tide reaches it’s height the tidal wave roars into the estuary and when it recedes leaves behind empty mudflats for a short moment before it fills up once again. This produces an eerie effect of water standing still, I can’t describe it better than that, you have to see it to believe it.

I’ve chosen just three of the best places to visit, there are many more but I don’t want to overload you with information. From castles to rivers, forests to streams there is something for everyone. Walking, climbing, canoeing, rafting, archery, gliding and even balloon rides this is the place to visit. For the children there is the steam railway at Coleford, and if the weather is really appalling Newport (my hometown) is about a 40-minute drive away. With its leisure centre there is enough to keep even the most bored child interested and the centre offers concerts, which all the family can enjoy. You can make your visit as chap as you like or enjoy a bit of luxury, whichever you decide you will certainly unwind and let that stress just melt away.

Summary.
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I wish I could take you by the hand and walk with you through the forest canopy in spring when the woods are full of wild daffodils and primroses. Aconites raise their white heads and the early spring sunshine carpets the ground in a dazzling display of colour. Rivers wend their way to the sea, trickling lightly over rocks and stones singing songs of the ancient hillsides that gave them birth.

I wish you could see through my eyes the acres of bluebells, a sea of colour amidst the myriad hues of green. I would love it if you were by my side when after walking through lofty trees we bathe our aching feet in cool, clear water.
I would stand next to you as the summer sun brought the fledgling birds out to soar on the thermals and hear you gasp with delight as your eyes roamed over the fields of green and gold.

In autumn I would take you to places where the leaves fall in cascades of russet, ochre, brown, gold and orange as a harvest moon. Together we would watch as wild deer, rabbits, squirrels come out to feed. Sitting on a rock high above the world I would watch your face and hear that sharp intake of breathe as the sun sinks below the horizon washing the sky with streaks of violet, blue and gold.

When winter grips the land in frosty calm I would walk with you as the earth crunches under our feet. Together we could hear the whisper of a myth from long ago and look back over the years to a time when man still looked to the stars for light and guidance, far from the haze that lies over towns the stars would burn more brightly and maybe then you would understand some of the mystery that lies deep on this land as old as time.

Will you join me here sometime?

© Lisa Fuller January 2006.

Summary: A holiday, a learing experience, time to unwind.