Camping in Kyle (Reraig Caravan Site)

Member Name: Aspen

Product:	Reraig Caravan Site
Date:	03/12/01 (330 review reads)
Rating:

Advantages: Wild, beautiful and remote.

Disadvantages: Midgies, inevitably.

This summer, I did something I haven’t done for nearly a decade.

I rummaged in the shed under accumulated debris which I dare not list. I extracted the lightweight backpacking tent with the mouse-chewed corners, which once upon a time accompanied me in my forays into some of Scotland’s wild bits. I shoved it in the van, having first removed a rotovator, spade, slightly blunt chainsaw, half bag of NPK, part of a mouldy cheese and pickle sandwich, a can of de-icer (winter was past), and one wellie. Of the other wellie, there is still no trace. I dare say I will pick up the scent one day.

On top of the tent, I shoved a camping stove of unknown vintage, a sleeping bag with more togs than a Terry Wogan fanclub, the odd change of socks (which, in my haste, subsequently proved to be a change of odd socks), and of course the mad, but geriatric, Jack Russell.

And we went west.

On the A87, four miles inland from the Skye Bridge, is Reraig Caravan Site. Now why, in their advertising bumph, the owners should choose to reference it to the Skye Bridge is a mystery to me. Me, I would pretend the Bridge didn’t exist. I would describe it as three miles inland from Kyle of Lochalsh, from where you can catch the WONDERFUL ROMANTIC FERRY to Skye. But then I’m not a member of the Skye Bridge fan club, so make allowances.

And that is my only gripe.

This is a great woodland site, with a well-laid-out and spacious area for caravans and camper vans. Beyond the main park, in the trees, are some wonderfully secluded tent pitches.

There is only one toilet block (but lots of trees – for the dog, of course), but it is large and modern, with plenty hot water, and dish and clothes washing facilities. There are 40 touring pitches (excluding tents), 36 with electrical hook-up. Some pitches are on hard-standing, and there are ample waste water and chemical toilet disposal points.


There is no sho
p on site, but there is one adjacent. A mini-market (very mini, but this is the remote Highlands), it also houses a post office and video shop.

A short walk in to the village of Balmacara, there is a decent pub serving decent pub meals – note careful wording, not critical, nor enthusiastic. But when I was there, it boasted a very entertaining Aussie barmaid (sorry, person), and a pair of equally entertaining local drunks. At least, I think it was a pair, but the night was getting on . . .

When I crawled out of the tent in the morning, not at all hungover, the first thing I saw, only feet away, was an otter. I consider myself very fortunate to have seen a few otters in the wild, on these Western shores, but never have I been that close. For that reason alone, I would return to Reraig in hope . . .


Reraig is a perfect stopping-over place en route to Skye, but it’s a shame to use it as such. Stay a couple of nights at least. There is so much to see around this place, I urge you not to simply pass through.

Just across the main road is Balmacara Woodland Garden. Owned by the National Trust for Scotland, this is a paradise for tree-lovers. Okay, we may be few, but we mean well. You, too, could be a convert after this.

A few miles north is the village of Plockton, on the shores of Loch Carron.

Please don’t go there. I want it all to myself. Palm trees line the streets, and Hamish MacBeth was filmed there. Shame. Too many MacBeth souvenirs and Wee Jocks now. Check out the periodic craft fairs in the local hall. I bought a woolly bunnet. Sad, or what? Not a tartan one though. I would never stoop that low.

North still, for the brave, is Applecross. I’m not really as old as I sometimes think I am, but I can remember when Applecross was only accessible by sea. No, that’s a lie in poetic licence terms. I can remember being told of the days when Applecross was accessible only by sea
. I can, however, remember attempting to reach Applecross in an old Mini, which boiled after several vertical hairpins, and with no turning places on the single track road, reversed, sheepishly and defeated, back to base. The only way in to Applecross is via the Bealach na Ba (The Pass of the Cattle). It is steep. It is twisty. It is unsuitable for caravans, drivers of a nervous disposition, passengers of a nervous disposition even more so, or anything larger than a four-wheel-drive, articulated pram. Enjoy.

South east of Reraig, ie back the way you came, is Eilean Donan Castle. Today’s trendy world reckons it is famous for Highlander and The World is Not Enough. Sad movie-fed generation that we are. Or as the castley-thing the BBC red balloon flies over. Funny. I thought it was something to do with Jacobites and the 45. Shows how out of touch I am.

Then there’s Glenelg. Try reading it backwards.

On the south side of Loch Duich is one of my favourite places. And only a stones throw from Reraig.

Strike south from Shiel Bridge, over Mam Ratagan, and you reach Glenelg. Here, for the historians, are two of mainland Scotland’s best preserved Brochs – Dun Telve and Dun Troddan. Sadly, some of their stones were plundered to build – another historian’s dream place, Bernera Barracks. And if you have come this far, you are but a hop and a skip away from the site of Camusfearna.

Eh?

If this rings no bells, you have not read my piece on Glenelg, Gavin Maxwell, Ring of Bright Water, and otters. But as I do not plug my earlier opinions, I will not chastise you for this omission.

Yes, this is where it all happened. I’ll say no more.

But if you want a circular tour from Reraig, come this far. And continue. Because from near Bernera, you can get a ferry to Skye. Six cars at a time, summer only. You land at Kylerhea. And nearby is a Forestry CommissionOtter Sanctuary,
which is well worth a visit. Quietly. At dawn or dusk.

Thereafter, umpteen miles of single track road. Slept overnight in a layby once, on this road, sprawled across the front seats of an old Landrover. Handbrake still gives me nightmares.

Thence to Broadford, which in Skye terms is quite touristy. But on the northern outskirts, slightly off the beaten track, is a chainsaw museum. A what!? Yep, you heard. This is not a travel piece on Skye, so I’ll say no more. But if you are ever in Broadford, seek it out. You will be surprised.

And so, back over the extortionately-tolled bridge to Reraig.

To sleep.

Perchance to dream of otters.


© Mike Clark 2001

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