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After many years of using power tool I honestly thought that I had a knack of knowing how good a tool would be by just looking at it. Sadly though, a few months back, my ability to spot junk failed me, which meant I bought this drill that, after a lot of squabbling in the shop, I got my money back for.
This is a 680watt drill and, unlike some electric drills this one has a reverse action, (like cordless drills), which makes this one stand out in the cabled drill world. This feature is controlled using the little dial on the side of the drill, just above the handle.
The trigger is soft and lets you fully control the start speed of the motor, this helps when it comes to pilot holes or screwing in. then there's the trigger locking button, just behind the trigger, which locks the drill on for longer drilling, so you can release the trigger.
It has a hammer function, using the slider control on the top, slide right for hammer and left for normal.
There is an additional side handle, which comes in handy for concrete drilling as it give you more control over the entire drill. This side handle is attached using the loop section and then turning the handle to tighten it all up. Also on this handle there is a depth gauge for when you have to drill the same depth hole over and over again.
Right at the bottom of the handle, on the front, there is a little light that illuminates the area you're working on. Which again, is not something you find in a corded drill.
Sadly, even though this had a few good ideas for corded drills, this just did not have what it takes to be a drill that I could trust. It just didn't seem to have the power or stamina to get through tougher material, like concrete, no matter which 'bit' I stuck into it. At some points the entire motor would screech to a halt leaving me with a drill bit stuck in the wall and a rather pungent smell of burning rubber/oil/plastic...
it had no problem with wood, but then again, if it was just wood I drilled into I would not need a hammer drill would I.? But when it came to drilling into brick work or concrete I lost total faith in it, which, for all DIYer, and professional now, is not a good thing to lose when using power tools.
This drill will set you back about £70 - £80 which is way too much for a drill that can only go through wood. For me, I'm glad I got my money back so I could put it toward a decent drill.
"Corded: yes / Subcategory: SDS & Hammer Drill / Makita HP 1641 K 240 Volt Percussion Drill Keyless 13mm / The Makita HP1641 K Percussion Drill has the following features ; / Forward/reverse rotation. / Variable speed trigger. / Keyless chuck. / Double insulated. Technical Specifications: Blows per minute: 0-44,800 bpm. No load speed: 0 / 2,800 rpm. Input wattage: 680 w. Net weight: 2.0 kg. Max in masonry: 16 mm. Max in steel: 13 mm. Max in wood: 30 mm. Supplied with ; Side handle. Depth stop. Carry case."