Moorish and moreish (Alhambra Palace (Granada))

Member Name: duncantorr

Product:	Alhambra Palace (Granada)
Date:	27/04/07 (508 review reads)
Rating:

Advantages: Spectacular site, fascinating history, beautiful buildings and gardens

Disadvantages: Crowds, especially guided tour parties

"Here we go again," I thought, as my wife and I joined the long queue waiting for the Alhambra ticket office to open at 8.30 in the morning.

It was not the waiting I was worried about. Having struggled out of bed in time to be there I was still half-asleep in any case, and to shuffle forward somnambulantly was little extra discomfort. It was more the realisation that I had only a month or so earlier written a review about the tendency of World Heritage Sites to attract so many visitors as to spoil the experience of visiting them. In the context of this theme, would I be able to find anything new to say about the Alhambra that I had not already said about the Taj Mahal?

The parallels did not stop at the crowds, either. Having lazily deleted some, but not all, of my Indian photographs from the memory chip of my digital camera before visiting Andalucia, I found it hard, when I downloaded on return, to distinguish the shots taken of Mughal palaces, gardens and mosques in India from those taken of their Moorish equivalents in southern Spain. There is a unity of concept in Islamic architecture, ornamentation and garden design that easily straddles the distance between Agra and Granada.

Even the name of the Alhambra derives from the Arabic for "red castle", echoing that of Agra's Red Fort, though the reddish undertones of the Alhambra's rock are very muted compared with the vermilion of Rajasthani sandstone.

There were differences too, however, and I came away having enjoyed the Alhambra rather more than the Red Fort or the Taj Mahal, despite the latter's sublime architectural beauty.


* History *

The site of the Alhambra has probably been fortified for as long as there have been humans around to fight each other. It is one of those places, perched on a hilltop above the confluence of two rivers, that seem to attract ramparts and towers like magnets attract iron filings. Except where archaeologists have excavated, though, few of the earliest traces remain.

Most of the Alhambra that we can visit today dates from the later Moorish period, and specifically from the Nasrid dynasty that ruled hereabouts from 1232 to 1492. With Granada their capital and the Alhambra, sitting as it does on the hill above the city, their palace and stronghold, the Nasrid sultans maintained an Islamic presence in Andalucia long after Seville and Cordoba had succumbed to the Christians.

The sultanate's final downfall, marking the end of Moorish power in southern Spain, coincided with the 'discovery' of America by Columbus. The Middle Ages were drawing to a close, and a new era dawning. Later additions and alterations to the Alhambra by its Spanish conquerors, even where they date from not long after the conquest, look out of place - as incongruous in period as they are in culture - but they do not detract from the atmosphere, or from the enjoyment of a visit. Indeed, they add to the interest of the place.


* The site *

The hill on which the Alhambra sits is one of many foothills of the Sierra Nevada, the mountain range that lies to the south-east of Granada. From the battlements one can see the Sierra rear up across the horizon, its highest peaks still capped with snow even as summer draws near. Away from the mountains, one can peer down over the sheer drop to the north into the Darro Valley, with the ancient Moorish quarter of the Albaicín lying across the stream, or west over the modern city as it sprawls out onto the plain.

The outer walls enclose the crest of the hill, perhaps 750 metres long by 250 at its widest point, not a vast area but one that encompasses a great variety of relics from different periods.

At the western extremity, closest to the city, is the Alcazaba, the main keep or fortress. Next, working west to east, come the Nasrid palaces (yes, plural), the palace subsequently built by Charles V, the Partal gardens, the parador of San Francisco and the ruins of the convent of the same name, with still more gardens, and many significant defensive towers. Then, in case you haven't had enough Moorish architecture and horticulture, on an adjacent hill is found the Generalife, a retreat of courtyards and gardens where the sultans could seek solace from the cares of office. This is included in the visit.

Several of these features are worth a comment in their own right.


* The Alcazaba *

The fortress of the Alcazaba is the oldest part of the complex, and there is a military austerity to its architecture. It consists of solid walls with little ornamentation, the remains of guard-rooms, barracks and dungeons. Characteristically, the open spaces are parade-ground bare with little greenery, although there is a surprising little terrace-garden tucked in between the tiers of its ramparts to the south, which also affords one of the best views of the Sierra Nevada's snowy peaks.

Indeed, to me the views were the best aspect of the Alcazaba. The Torre de la Vela ('watch-tower') at its western end commands a magnificent panorama across the whole city of Granada and beyond. A guidebook to the Alhambra published in 1904 that I have read since returning claims that: "in this tower is hung a famous bell, to be heard, it is said, at Loja, thirty miles away. It is rung on the anniversary of the conquest of Granada, on which day it is the custom, according to local superstition, for damsels desirous of husbands to strike it with all their strength."

Alas, I did not see this custom enacted. Maybe it has fallen into disuse, or, more probably, I was simply there on the wrong day.


* The Palace of Charles V *

Turning back into the Alhambra from the Alcazaba, one emerges into an open courtyard, the view dominated by the square stone palace of Charles V beyond, its monolithic facade only softened by an intervening terrace with shrubbery.

This is something of a ghost palace. Although conceived as a grandiose gesture to stamp the authority of Catholic Spain on the old Muslim capitol, it was barely completed and never occupied by the emperor. The interior rooms are said to be in poor repair and cannot be visited, except for a few that have been converted into museums - both archeological and fine arts.

The visitor can, however, wander at will around both storeys of the central patio, which is surprisingly circular in contrast to the square exterior. Somehow, the upper balcony, its roof supported by columns, looking down on the bare disc of the courtyard below reminds one of the tiered galleries that surround bull-rings. It is an atmospheric place, a complete contrast in mood and style to the Nasrid palaces that hide behind it, although there is much more to be seen in them.


* The Nasrid Palaces *

Architecturally, these are the highpoint of any visit to the Alhambra, and the hardest to take in during the course of a short visit.

A full catalogue of everything to be seen within them would be equally hard to take in during the course of a short review of this kind, so I shall not attempt to describe them comprehensively, or in anything like the detail they deserve. Suffice it to say that the complex encompasses several different palaces, built for different sultans at different periods, but interlocking and joined by passages and patios. In these, cloisters provide shade, pools and fountains coolness and planting greenery. The effect is inward-looking, but sudden, surprising windows and balconies offer views across the surrounding hills.

The labyrinthine complexity of the layout is unified by a consistency of decorative style. In places the decoration has suffered from damage or neglect in the centuries that followed the conquest, as have the buildings themselves, but what remains is still staggering in its elaboration and extent.

The decoration includes tiles and mosaics, but is especially notable for moulded stucco or ceramic, no less impressive in its intricacy than if it were carved stone. Layered screens of calligraphic design admit glinting rays of light. Vaulted ceilings are encrusted with 'mocarabes' - painted plasterwork in geometric patterns like orderly, albeit truncated, stallachtites.

Particularly notable are:

- Patio of the Lions. A cloistered courtyard, surrounded by a gallery supported on fine alabaster columns, while the fountain in its centre rests on the backs of a dozen marble lions - a rare example of figurative Islamic art.

- Hall of the Kings. Entered through three porticos, this complex room is surrounded by niches and side-chambers, each with its own decoration. The ceilings are especially impressive, whether covered with mocarabes or leather-lined and painted - as in the case of the painting of Nasrid rulers on the central dome.

- Court of the Myrtles. A simple rectangular pond, fed by fountains and flanked by trimmed myrtle hedges, dominates this courtyard and offsets the arched cloisters at either end.

- Hall of the Abencerrajes, named after an offshoot of the royal family whose princes are said to have been beheaded there, although the reputedly ineradicable blood-stain in the marble fountain has since been proved to be mere rust. Even without those macabre traces, though, the decoration is something to be wondered at.

- And many other chambers and courtyards beside. I should never have started listing them; there are too many to do justice to without turning this review into a catalogue.


* The Partal Gardens *

These are behind the Nasrid palaces, and consist of an ascending series of terraces. As with all Moorish-influenced gardens, water plays a major role; pools, fed by tinkling fountains or by marble gulleys down which the water cascades, are an integral part of the design, as are symmetrically arranged hedgerows to break up the space and provide structure for the beds of roses, lilies or geraniums. Cypresses and palms provide shade from the summer sun.

This is a good place to rest, relax, reflect and settle any cultural indigestion caused by having tried to absorb too much rich ornamental fare within the palaces.


* Generalife *

If the Partal gardens and patios within the Alhambra itself have acted as horticultural appetisers, the Generalife rounds off the banquet. This pleasance, which descends in steps down the neighbouring hillside, encompasses a sequence of courtyards, as attractively ornate as those in the Alhambra itself, which have since been extended with parterres and terraces, with pergolas and covered walkways. One strolls through them to the splash of water and the hum of bees, as well as the click of cameras and the monotonous drone of the tour-guides' commentaries. In early May, when we were there, the air was filled with the scent of orange-blossom.

The celebrated Patio de la Acquia ("Canal Courtyard") appears a classic of its kind, although purists tell me its current design is not quite the original, in which it would have been divided into four by its water-courses, the resultant quadrants enclosing sunken beds for flowers and fruit-trees. But to the untutored eye the surrounding greenery is still a perfect backdrop to the jets of water than arch up, over and into the central pool from either side.

Also at the Generalife is an open-air theatre, where night performances are held during the annual Music Festival. The effect in such a setting must be magical. A good reason, if any were needed, to go back another time.


* Visiting *

This is where we came in. As a World Heritage Site and one of Europe's best-known ancient monuments, the Alhambra is in great demand and the number of visits is restricted. This doesn't prevent it from becoming overcrowded, of course, but at least some limit is placed on the crowds.

It is possible to book in advance through the official website, but if, like us, you've failed to do this, your best hope is to turn up as early as possible. The queue is kept informed by loudspeaker as to how sales are going and, so far as I could tell, 600 tickets for morning entry, and another 600 for afternoon entry are reserved for sale on the day. You want to try for morning entry because there is too much to see in a single afternoon. Our visit lasted from 9.00 a.m. until 4.30 p.m. and we could easily have spent longer. Additionally, the tickets stipulate a half-hour slot for entry to the Nasrid palaces, so as to avoid bottle-necks in these, the main attractions. Having entered during your allotted half-hour, though, you can remain inside as long as you like.

We thought the ticket arrangements we very well handled, given the demand, with the queue being kept informed and able to assess the chances of being in line for one of the places. There is also a café beside the entrance, so you can buy a takeaway coffee to keep you awake while you wait. There are also two tabby cats at the café to converse with (and two black ones you will meet later in the Generalife garden).

Once within the Alhambra complex, the grounds are extensive enough and the attractions varied enough to find peaceful spots to escape from the crowds. But the more famous parts are inescapably busy, and in the Nasrid palaces in particular one has to try to wait for gaps between the guided tour parties - who invariably seem to think they have pre-emptive rights to push through, block doorways and chatter deafeningly - to enjoy the place to the full.

Tickets are good value at €10 a head, €7 for concessions (approx £7 and £5 respectively) to which you must add €3 if you want a hand-held audio guide, well worth it for the sheer volume of background information about such an extensive site.


* How to get there and where to stay *

Granada is now served directly by Ryanair from Stansted. Alternatively, especially if you are thinking of touring more widely in Andalucia, many airlines fly from various UK airports to Malaga or Seville, from which Granada can be reached by train or rented car.

If you're well-heeled and fancy treating yourself, you could stay inside the Alhambra itself at the Parador de San Francisco - paradors being state-sponsored luxury hotels in Spain's historic sites. We dropped in for morning coffee on its scenic terrace, paying twice as much as we later paid for a drink at the other hostelry within the grounds - the cosy and characterful Hotel America.

Alternatively, you can stay anywhere in Granada, which is crammed with hotels, hostels, etc., and is a great place to wander out for tapas and a drink in the evening. If you're still feeling fit early in the morning you can take a pleasant walk up to the Alhambra through the wooded parkland below the ramparts, or catch a shuttle bus up for €1. Even a taxi will only cost you a few euros from the middle of town.

Despite the crowds, the Alhambra is a fascinating and even charming place to visit. On a more general note, and writing as one who has never numbered Spain among his favourite countries, I found that not only Granada but inland Andalucia at large to be welcoming and full of interest. A week's drive around was only an appetiser, and I would gladly go back for more.



© First published under the name torr on Ciao UK, May 23rd 2006

Summary: One of Europe's great historical sites, beautifully situated and preserved