St Peter's Square isn't Square at all! St Peter's Square. Rome. (St Peter's Square)

Member Name: GillMN

Product:	St Peter's Square
Date:	18/08/09 (143 review reads)
Rating:

Advantages: Sheer magnificent, huge, restful beauty. Kept spotlessly clean.

Disadvantages: Can get busy on Wednesdays and Sundays. Horrible expensive souvenirs.

St Peters Square is an enormous open space in front of St Peter's basilica in Rome. I have spent a fair few hours here watching the world go by and having a breather from the beautiful but hectic city of Rome.

The square isn't square at all and it amuses me to try and work out why we call it that. 'St Peter's circle with two end bits' would be more accurate but it doesn't have the same ring to it. The Italians call it St Peters Piazza so that is what I'll do.

The Piazza was designed by Bernini and was finished in 1656. He was also responsible for a lot of the design of the Vatican buildings and was the most prominent architect and builder of that time.

The middle of the Piazza is dominated by a massive red granite obelisk. Caligula brought it to Rome in 35AD. It's amazes me to think that 2,000 years ago that completely mad, power crazed, individual had gazed at the same obelisk and probably stroked it's cool smoothness the same way that I have done.
The obelisk was moved to the middle of the Piazza in the 16th century. It used to have a golden ball on top which legend said had the ashes of Julius Ceasar inside. It was taken down in 1586 and replaced by a huge iron cross inside which is a relic of the Cross.
Imagine the disappointment when the ball was opened up and instead of Julius Ceasar all that was inside was a bit of ancient dust!

Radiating out from the obelisk are white travertine lines. These break up what would otherwise be a huge grey expanse of floor and have a very pleasing effect on the eye. Large round stones have been placed around the piazza, they mark the tip of the shadow of the obelisk as it moves into different star signs, so the Piazza is a giant sundial too!

Surrounding the 'Square' is a collonade, a covered walkway. It gives good shelter from the sun and the rain, particularly for the hawkers who manage to illegally park themselves there and try to sell you mind bogglingly tasteless souvenirs. Do you want a plastic, revolving, illuminated staue of the Pope? Perhaps a blue plastic key ring of Mary, Mother of God? Or how could you resist a snow globe of the piazza? (Particularly fetching because all the obelisks inside them are bright red and slightly wonky!) Or perhaps the heat is getting to you and you want a small bottle of water? Only about £5.00! I'd have wanted the Pope and all the Curia to have bottled and blessed it personally for that price! Obviously the hundred saints topping the colonades, close their eyes to this common Roman practise of ripping off the tourists.

If you can see past the hawkers, the colonades are really beautiful. They are supported by a double row of pillars which are set so precisely that, viewed from two points in the square, they look like a single row. I read about this and me being me, had to check it out. It's true! There are two little round stone slabs to stand on to get the best view of this. Of course you have to wait until it's empty to have a go. (Unless you are a particular type of tourist who doesn't have scruples about ordering a person off the stone. I won't mention the nationality of this rude person. Unlike Basil Fawlty, I didn't mention the war.)

There are two magnificient fountains in the square and they bring some welcome relief from the heat. You are not supposed to paddle in them but of course, lots of people do. I saw an amusing sight one day. I shouldn't have laughed but I did. A group of tourists had taken off their shoes and left them on the rim of the fountain whilst they went for a paddle and a splash to cool down. A vagrant walked past, eyed up the shoes, walked straight to the nearest bin, took his tatty old sandals off and threw them in. Then he walked back and calmly chose himself a new pair of shoes! He put them on, checked that they were a good fit and marched off in them. By the time I got from the obelisk to the fountain to inform the now shoeless American, he had disappeared! That thief had chutzpah! Fortunately, the barefoot chap had another pair in his hotel room. (I thought it would be a bit tactless to point out that there was some spare footwear in the bin!)
Incidentally, if the sound of running water makes you want to pee, you will have a bit of a problem. Rome is not noted for it's abundance of public toilets and the Piazza is no exception. I couldn't find a toilet anywhere close.

If you go to St Peter's Piazza on a Wednesday Morning you will be in the company of up to 300,000 other people who come to hear the Pope's address and be blessed by him. I'm no theologian, but surely one blessing spread out between 300,000 people would dilute it a bit! I think he should do a few dozen blessings just to make sure everyone gets some! (The Pope's address by the way is...... 1 St Peter's Piazza. The Vatican. Rome.)
Also, on Sundays at noon, the Pope will come out onto the balcony to recite the Angelus and greet the crowds.
I never went on a Wednesday or Sunday morning, the thought of that many people all together at once was a bit daunting to me. I am told though, that it quite a sight to see and that the atmosphere is electric.

It is possible to view the square from the cupola on St Peter's Basilica. This costs nothing but effort because there are a huge amount of stairs. The view from there is stunning and it is possible to really see the symmetry and beauty of the Piazza. From here the people look like little ants, dwarfed by the distance and the sheer size of the Piazza. It's an awe inspiring sight.

St Peter's Piazza is the most famous square in the world. You have to pass through it to gain access to St Peter's Church and, of course, the Vatican. I think that perhaps because people are often rushing to see those places, that the Piazza itself often isn't properly appreciated. It is well worth taking your time to really have a look at it and make some space in your busy schedule just to take it in.

Perch yourself on the edge of one of the lovely fountains and just gaze around at the wonderful architecture that has contained and witnessed 500 years of modern Roman history. Watch the crowds, have a rest, be refreshed by the solemn beauty of it. But don't leave your shoes if you have a paddle!

Summary: An oasis of space in a crowded and busy city.