Rum is in the air: A guide to Berlin's Christmas markets (Sights & Attractions in Berlin in general)

Member Name: ms_memory

Product:	Sights & Attractions in Berlin in general
Date:	07/12/08 (129 review reads)
Rating:

Advantages: Romantic, atmospheric, with delicious food and well-priced, unique gifts

Disadvantages: Can get more than a little nippy outside, it's tempting to buy everything in sight!

Clusters of wooden huts strewn with twinkling fairy lights, the heady smell of mulled wine and roasted almonds wafting through the chill air - yep, that time of year is upon us again. The past 5 or 10 years in Britain have seen a sudden explosion of German-style Christmas markets in towns up and down the country, with millions of visitors flocking to markets in places such as Manchester, Bath, London, Leeds and Birmingham (which hosts the largest of its kind outside Germany or Austria) to sample the delights of traditional Teutonic winter fayre and artefacts outdoors, a tradition which dates back to the Middle Ages. At the same time, German towns and cities attract their own share of market-going visitors. While Nuremberg's world-famous Christkindlmarkt is considered the most spectacular, it is the capital which receives the most winter visitors - especially from the UK. Berlin's array of markets (over 70 this year and counting) can be overwhelming, so here's a guide to the highlights.

***DATES***

Christmas markets - also known as Advent markets - in the German capital generally open on the first weekend of Advent, and run until Christmas Eve, with some staying open until New Year's Eve. They usually open from around 10am to 11pm, attracting the most visitors at lunchtimes, after work and at weekends.

***FOOD***

Many locals visit the markets regularly over the Advent period to socialise and have lunch or dinner, which is why some markets have almost as many food and drink stands as gift stalls. The most popular savoury snack is the ubiquitous 'Bratwurst' (grilled sausage in a bread roll). This tastes great with yellow mustard a well as the sweet Bavarian variety (if it's been allowed to get as far north as Berlin). Other typical dishes include fried mushrooms with sour cream; green cabbage and onions with sliced sausage or bacon; fried potatoes; giant salted pretzels; and vegetable and noodle stir-fries. Vegetarians should watch out for errant pieces of bacon that seem to make their way into everything in Germany! Some markets also have their own specialties according to their particular theme or style.

Sweet-toothed shoppers also have a lot choice, with sugar-coated roasted almonds, chocolate-covered fresh fruits, toffee apples and roast chestnuts all being market staples. If you fancy one of the large iced gingerbread hearts that people sometimes wear on ribbons around their necks, be warned: they're not always as soft as they look and people tend to keep them for decoration rather than eat them.

Other German Christmas food worth picking up if you come across it:

- 'Lebkuchenherzen': mini chocolate-covered jam-filled gingerbread hearts - not to be confused with their teeth-breaking cousins mentioned above
- 'Dominosteine': small squares of layered cake, marzipan and jam covered in chocolate;
- Marzipan: for eating rather than baking, it is sold as 'Kartoffeln' (literally potatoes - refers to little marzipan balls) or 'Brot' ('bread' i.e. bars/slabs of marzipan, usually covered in chocolate - do you detect a theme here?);
- 'Zimtsterne': iced cinnamon star biscuits;
- 'Speculatius': strongly spiced biscuits, great for dunking in hot drinks. Which brings me to....

***DRINK***

Glühwein (mulled wine, literally 'glowing wine') is the most popular way to keep warm while shopping outdoors during the German winter, and no advent market worth its salt would be complete without a few stands doling out mugs of hot, spiced vino. Some people add a 'Schuss' - a shot of rum, amaretto or similar - for an extra-warming kick. 'Kinderpunsch' - children's punch - is also available for little ones or those avoiding alcohol. Not to be confused with 'Eierpunsch', mind, which translates as 'egg punch'. This heady concoction contains eggnog or egg yolk, rum, white wine, milk, nutmeg and sugar. An acquired taste! 'Feuerzangenbowle' is a traditional New Year's Eve drink in Germany, but can be found at some Advent markets. It is made by melting rum-soaked sugar over a pot of mulled wine, and you can watch it being prepared on a special burner.

A deposit is usually required for the mug when buying all of these drinks - you can get said deposit back by returning the mug, or you can keep it as a souvenir, since they're generally decorated with the name of the market and the year.

***SHOPPING***

The stalls mainly sell reasonably-priced and often handmade decorative items, and quality is generally very high. You can pick up all manner of Christmas tree decorations, lamps, ornaments, glass and metalwork items, lanterns, paintings and sculptures, pottery and ceramics. There is also an abundance of clothes and accessories, such as felt or sheepskin slippers or moccasins, pashminas, scarves, jewellery (especially amber from the Czech Republic and Poland), and leather goods such as bags, belts, gloves and wallets. Foodstuffs e.g. chocolates, stollen (Christmas fruit cake), liqueurs and jams and preserves are also readily available.

***ADDITIONAL ATTRACTIONS***

Lots of the markets also boast fairground rides, tarot readers, ice rinks, live music, and even tobogganing (see Potsdamerplatz below).

***USEFUL INFO***

Cash is still very much King in Germany and most if not all stallholders will decline credit and debit cards, so make sure you go to the bank beforehand. A few carrier bags can come in useful as the stalls sometimes run out of them. As in all crowded places, you should keep your money out of sight when walking around and exercise caution at all times.

Most importantly, Advent markets can quickly lose their attraction if you're freezing your proverbials off, so wrap up warm, wear boots and two pairs of socks if you can, and don't forget the hat and gloves.


***SOME OF THE BEST ADVENT MARKETS IN BERLIN, BY AREA***

Eastern-central Berlin


Opernpalais: Nostalgic Christmas Market

The undisputed king of Berlin's advent markets, it is made up of a labyrinth of bustling stall-lined lanes winding their way around the Opera building, with curtains of fairy lights, an organ grinder and (toy!) monkey, an old-fashioned big wheel, live music and fortune tellers. There's even a photo studio offering family portraits in old-fashioned costumes. Shopping here is great, with stalls from all around Europe selling gorgeous crafts. Much tackier, but worth a peek, is the large glass bauble hut. Want a gilded gherkin, a flounder, a stripper or a giant mummy to hang on your tree? No problem. Next door is the 'Berlin on Ice' skating rink.


Nostalgic Christmas Magic at the Gendarmenmarkt

The only market that charges an entrance fee, it is eschewed by many cost-conscious Berliners, but tourists come here en masse to marvel at the extensive collection of traditional tree decorations and wooden toys - not to mention the beautiful Gendarmenmarkt square itself, which is flanked by twin cathedrals.


Red City Hall

New for 2008, the 'Rotes Rathaus' off Alexanderplatz is playing host to a market with traditional huts and Neptune's fountain has been turned into an ice rink. Santa Claus was spotted here flying through the air in his sleigh on 6th December - maybe he'll be back again before Christmas!


Alexa Centre

This recently opened shopping centre next to Alexanderplatz hosts a large fairground at the rear of the complex, with stalls selling more food than gifts, and rides to make you wish you hadn't eaten that second plate of green cabbage!


Lucia Christmas Market at the Kulturbrauerei

Great for children, it is enclosed in the courtyard of a former brewery which is now a cultural centre in the gentrified area of Prenzlauerberg, increasingly populated by yummy mummies and the international crowd. With a Swedish theme, Viking fancy-dress outfits for kids and Nordic-style food and gifts, the highlight is probably the 'radiator coats' that you can hire to keep warm!


Western-central Berlin


Winter World at Potsdamerplatz

Arguably neither east nor west, since it was situated in no-man's land until 1989, this new business and entertainment complex has caught up quickly and is looking particularly festive this year with thousands of lights suspended from the trees along the side-streets. Europe's biggest city toboggan run, the 'Rodelbahn' is here - you can slide down it on hired 'snow tubes' for Euro1.50. This market is a bit more pricey than some, but has a good choice of crafts and gifts.


City Christmas Market

This nestles at the junction of Tauentzienstrasse and Ku'damm, along one of the west's main drags, beneath the striking shadow of the bombed out 'Gedächtniskirche' church. It's pretty commercial, as befits the main shopping area, but usually has the best chocolate-covered fruit in Berlin!

Western Berlin


Winterfeldtplatz Advent Market

Slightly off the beaten track, this regular weekend market is transformed during Advent. It boasts handmade decorative items, foodstuffs from around the globe and a beautiful array of seasonal flowers and produce.


Domäne Dahlem

The original 'eco market', this medieval-style bazaar, with its live animals and farm setting, takes Christmas shoppers back to nature. This is the place to stock up on organic soaps, old-fashioned preserves and age-old spirits such as mead. You can even buy horns to drink it from, just like the Berliners' ancestors did long ago. The museum next door offers some respite from the cold.


Spandau Christmas Market

Once a village in its own right, Spandau was eventually swallowed up by the city of Berlin but has retained its traditional small-town air. During Advent the market square and surrounding streets are turned into a giant open-air shopping area, with stalls and shops alike selling a wide range of competitively-priced goods. There is a fairground at the end nearest to the main train station.


Thanks for reading!
You can find more info at www.berlin.de (the site has an English section) and www.christmasmarkets.com

Summary: Red red wine, goes to my head.......