Magnificent Cathedral in the Neo-Gothic Style (Liverpool Anglican Cathedral (Liverpool))

Member Name: Zmugzy

Product:	Liverpool Anglican Cathedral (Liverpool)
Date:	16/03/06 (1278 review reads)
Rating:

Advantages: A magnificent building of the 20th century

Disadvantages: If you're a German you might find it a bit 'Kitsch'

John Betjeman once described Liverpool Anglican Cathedral as 'one of the great buildings of the world' and it is great. It is the largest cathedral in Britain and 5th largest in the world. The sandstone neo-gothic structure is a formidable sight on the Liverpool skyline. The cathedral possesses the highest gothic arches and the bells in the tower have the highest and heaviest peal in the world. There are two pipe organs in the Cathedral. The Grand Organ is the largest in the United Kingdom and probably the largest operational organ in the world with 9765 pipes. Despite these impressive features an overseas friend of mine, during the course of a guided tour of the city, still described it as a rather 'kitsch' building... I excused him on the fact that he was a German.


+++History+++
The construction of the cathedral spanned almost a century. It was designed by Giles Gilbert Scott (known as Scotty the Bricky to locals), a Victorian designer also famous for the design of red telephone boxes and the famous Battersea Power Station popularised by Pink Floyd. It is somewhat ironic that the Protestant Anglican Cathedral was designed by a Roman Catholic architect. The Foundation Stone of the cathedral was laid by King Edward VII in 1904 at a large open-air service. When the service finished, a choir of a thousand voices sang the Hallelujah Chorus from Handel's Messiah.

Despite two World Wars, countless economic depressions, a Catholic cathedral being built literally at the other end of the same street (known locally as Paddy's Wigwam) and Liverpool FC getting relegated to the second division in the 1950s, the work on the construction of the Cathedral never ceased. There were serious delays during the First World War, but the High Altar, Chancel and Eastern Transepts were still completed. It was also a miracle that the Cathedral avoided any serious damage when the city was ravaged by the bombs of the Luftwaffe during the Second World War. A single solitary bomb did to crash through the roof, but it was deflected out through a wall and exploded in a street outside, breaking only the windows on the river side.

It was in the presence of King George V and Queen Mary in 1924 that the Cathedral was finally consecrated. The tower was finished during the war when on the 20th February 1942 when Sir Giles Gilbert Scott positioned the final stone at the top of the grand gothic tower that stretches three hundred and thirty one feet one and half inches (don't forget the half) above the Cathedral floor. However, it was not until the 25th October 1978 that there was a grand thanksgiving ceremony in the presence of Queen Lizzy II to mark the completion of the Cathedral (You might notice that the only time Kings and Queens come to Liverpool is when there is some sort of a gig going on at the Anglican).

During the early 1990's the area in front of the Cathedral was transformed from urban dereliction into a new housing estate and in 1991 the Queen (Lizzy II) formerly opened the Queen's Walk. Personally I preferred the dereliction. The housing in front of the cathedral is totally uncomplimentary, bland and soulless. The dereliction was complimentary to the gothic edifice and added an eerie character to the area.


+++The Interior+++
The grand entrance to the cathedral is rather spoilt by a large statue of the modern tradition that stands perched above the door way. I think it's supposed to be Jesus but every time I see it I'm reminded of Mr Bean. The space inside this building is simply overwhelming. Light floods in through beautiful stained glass windows and behind the altar hangs a large golden carving depicting scenes from the last supper and the crucifixion. You might observe the rather feminine quality of the figure sat next to Jesus. It is possible sometimes to have access to the top of tower from where you will have some magnificent views of the city and across the river towards Wales on a clear day.

Unfortunately like many such historical buildings and mythological sites up and down the country the interior space is violated by the ubiquitous gift shop selling useless trinkets and plastic crucifixes (How Cromwell must be turning in his grave). I believe all forms of consumerism inside any house of God is an unholy and blasphemous act and should be outlawed immediately. Whatever happened to free Bibles?


+++The Graveyard+++
At the back of the Cathedral is the most wonderful and rather creepy Victorian graveyard; St James Cemetery. Not many people know about this and those that know rarely enter. There is a tunnel lined with head stones that leads you in. Here you will find the gravestones of some of the merchant families that lived in the city when it was, next to London, the second biggest city in the world. Some of the gravestones are single graves shared by poor orphan children of the tragic Victorian era. There is also a central monument, a memorial to Liverpool MP William Huskisson; the world's first recorded victim of a train accident. He was run over and killed by the locomotive Dart on the opening day of the Liverpool to Manchester Railway on 15 September 1830.

I dare you to enter there at dusk and stand still amongst the tombs whilst staring up at the monolithic gothic edifice towering upwards into the encroaching night. There is also a secret hidden amongst the tombs. At the far end of the grave yard lies an unmarked grave, unmarked that is, except for an engraving, I am not sure what it is but to me it looked like a hobgoblin. I only saw it once one moonlit night, it really freaked me out. I've been back on a few occasions during sunny daylight hours, but despite prolonged searches, I've never managed to find it again. I dare not return after dusk.


+++Getting to the Cathedral+++
The Anglican Cathedral is located on St James Road at the end of the appropriatly named Hope Street. If you attempt to make it to the Cathedral on foot from the city centre then be prepared for a bit of a slog as it's a rather uphill trek. There's also the risk of getting lost up a side street and finding yourself being accosted by a lady (I use the word 'lady' in the broadest terms) of the night (they work day shifts too) or even worse, you might meet an Australian couple who'll ask you for directions to the Beatles Museum.

+++By Car+++
From M6 North or South, leave at Junction 21A and take M62 (West) for Liverpool. At the end of the M62, follow the signs for City Centre and then for 'Cathedrals'. From Cheshire, follow signs to Liverpool via Tunnels, there is a £1.20 toll each way. When reaching Liverpool follow signs to city centre and 'Cathedrals'.

+++Car Parking+++
Car Parking is available at the Cathedral, with a charge of £1. Multi storey car parking is available nearer the city centre in Mount Pleasant and in neighbouring Duke Street. There is some limited free street parking available, but it's mostly on a pay-and-display basis.

+++Price+++
Entry to the cathedral is free of charge, but donations are invited - £3.00 (Euro4/$5US) is suggested. Prices for the Tower are £4.25 with concessions at £2.50. A family ticket for up to 2 adults and 3 children is £10.00.

Cathedral Address:
St James Mount
Liverpool
Merseyside
L1 7AZ

Summary: A Magnificent 20th Century Cathedral