"The Soldiers have no Beer.." (Vindolanda Trust)

Member Name: helencb

Product:	Vindolanda Trust
Date:	18/03/06 (517 review reads)
Rating:

Advantages: Of historical importance, fascinating, good value for money

Disadvantages: none

Oh Lord, where to start with this review, there is just far too much to say, and all about a site of utmost historical importance. Yet in my ignorance, I had not even heard about until quite recently, despite living 2hours from Hadrian's Wall, either side, for most of my life.

“The Soldiers Have no Beer. Please fetch some right away.” Just one of the messages found on the priceless writing tablets, made from Birch and Alder wood, and, dating from Period III at Vindolanda (97-105AD) represent some of the earliest records in Britain. (The writing tablets themselves are now being professionally stored in the British Museum.)

Hadrian’s Wall was, of course, the most Northern Frontier for most of the period of the Roman Invasion of Britain, and was built as a defence for the Barbarians further north. Vindolanda appears to have been occupied around AD 85, some 40 years before the 74-mile long Hadrian’s Wall was built. The name Vindolanda means White Lawns or White Fields, and is situated on the Stanegate Roman Frontier, which is slightly south of, and existed prior to the Hadrian’s Wall Frontier.

Once Hadrian’s Wall itself was built Vindolanda took its place as a Roman Fort Site between Housesteads and Great Chesters. Today you will find Vindolanda signposted from the extremely Roman and straight road that is now known as the B6318 or from the A69 north of Bardon Mill and NNE from Haltwhistle (itself the Geographical Centre of Britain across all compass directions).

The Vindolanda Trust is a registered charity and further excavations of the site depend on the support of visitors to the grounds, and Friends of the Trust. Based on speed of the current excavations, it is estimated that it will take another 150 years to fully excavate the old fort site (excluding the cemeteries), despite the Trust having been founded 34 years ago, in 1970. The site was occupied until the 5th century when the buildings were abandoned; the site was raided for good quality stone and soil began to cover the whole site.

Back in those days, almost 2000 years ago, the forts were built from Timber and had to be rebuilt every eight years or so, and by the time Hadrian was in reign, Vindolanda was on its fifth such fort. The Roman habit of covering old structures with a layer of clay or turf created anaerobic conditions over the site and this resulting lack of oxygen meant that all the personal artefacts of the roman soldiers have survived without much damage. And how fascinating they have turned out to be.

The main attractions at Vindolanda can be grouped as follows: The outdoor remains themselves, excavations in progress, the Museum of Artefacts and Writing Tablets, and the replica Roman Temple, Shop and House.

After paying your entry fee (see below) you will initially walk through a small exhibition area giving you some basic information about the site, before venturing outside to the Excavation Areas. Some of the aerial photographs in this area are amazing, in that you can clearly see the progress of the trust over the last 34 years.

During the summer months there will be archaeologists working live on excavations six days a week excluding Saturdays. There are several sites to wander through including the remains of a temple, excavation of wells and water tanks, Commanders Residence, Bath House, Civilian Settlement, Latrines, and Cemetery. As you walk through all of these areas you begin to build a picture in your mind of how the Romans would have lived at the time, with the protection of the North, South, East and West walls of the fort of Vindolanda itself. The later forts were built from Stone and not wood, and include HQ, latrines, and the bathhouse.

The grounds are delightful, especially in good weather and you can make your way slowly down to the Open Air Museum and gardens via a steep path from East Gate or an easier route from the South Gate (suitable for wheelchairs and prams).

The outdoor area itself is mainly comprised of reconstructions, including a shop front and a small croft. These attractions will probably be of particular interest to children because of the audiovisual impact of the voices of people from yesteryear describing their lives and living conditions.

Crossing the delightful stone bridge over the Chineley burn and you will arrive at the Chesterholm Museum, which was a mill in the 19th century. I have to point out that I am not one who normally enjoys looking at glass case after glass case of old artefacts - but this collection was pretty special, I thought. Of utmost importance are the writing tablets, which are the earliest written records in Britain, and the only artefacts that have left Vindolanda for the British Museum. They were also voted as number one in the BBC’s Top Ten Treasures. The very first writing tablet was in fact an inscription to a soldier from his family telling him his parcel of socks and other necessities were on their way, and the “Soldiers Running out of Beer” was of utmost importance together with other fine examples of official and private correspondence.

Other attractions in the museum include a huge collection of leather shoes and boots, both children’s and adults (soldiers) in amazingly good condition, saddlery, pots, utensils, protective gear, jewellery, keys which would put Chubb to shame, and combs which are almost identical to the narrow toothed combs we all dreaded at school!

When you have finished your visit, there is of course the obligatory gift shop, which is well stocked with books, for the enthusiasts; and a tearoom. As you leave the site you will also get the opportunity to visit the Hadrian’s Wall replicas (site no 9) incorporating a stone wall and turret, and a timber milestone gateway, these exhibitions being built by a group of female Gateshead schoolgirls some 30 years ago to demonstrate how high Hadrian’s Wall actually was at the time.

Entry to Vindolanda costs £4.95 per adult (2006) with discounts for Children, Seniors and Students; family tickets are priced at £14. You may also buy a discounted ticket to cover both Vindolanda and the Roman Army Museum just a few miles away. Disabled Guests and helpers are also welcome, although I did observe that the site is steep in places (but telephone 01434 344277 for access information)

Do I recommend a visit? You bet I do! I can honestly say I had not heard of Vindolanda and was not particularly attracted by the brief information I had gleaned before entering the site, but this has to be a £4.95 and a couple of hours well spent reflecting on the historical importance of this region.

Vindolanda Trust, Chesterholm Museum, Bardon Mill, Hexham, Northumberland, NE47 7JN

Opening hours are 10am until 6pm during the summer months and until 5pm during the late autumn.
Tel 01434 344 277
www.vindolanda.com

Summary: Not to be missed if you are in Northumberland