Highly Recommended (Petzl GriGri)

Member Name: dosftw

Product:	Petzl GriGri
Date:	24/07/09 (13 review reads)
Rating:

Advantages: Simple to use, durable, very safe when used correctly

Disadvantages: Expensive, very dangerous if not used correctly (like any belay device)

I have to say that when I first started climbing, I was rather intimidated by this belay device. Everyone has heard all of the horror stories of things going wrong with it.

But I have to say that these stories are not the devices fault, they are the fault of the belayer using it. I have had this device for nearly 8 months now and I have never had anything but steller performance from it.

The safety net that this device affords you it fantastic, but should never be relied on, not because you shouldnt trust it, but because it would be poor ettiquette while climbing.

This device is advertised as a self-locking/braking belay device, it is not advertised as a "hands free" device. This is where the horror storys come from, as people take their hands off the rope. Whether this is through stupidity or not being shown how to use the device/just not competent with it. Aslong as you follow the instructions and do nothing else, you will be perfectly fine.

Remember than a belay device is designed to be used how the manufacturer designed it, anything else puts peoples lives at risk.

The device works through a grabbing action which is exerted on the rope when the rope suddenly becomes taught on the climbers side (usually from a fall) When the rope becomes taught or tries to slide back throught device, the 'cam' in the device locks down on the rope, thus stopping backflow of the rope. This is perfect for use on those tricky climbs where you might not always be able to see the leader or when the leader is likely to fall.

It is also useful for top-roping (where the anchor is at the top of the wall and the belayer at the bottom, I have never tried it in a top-belaying situation nor am I 100% certain it was designed for that purpose ALWAYS ASK A TRAINED INSTRUCTOR IF YOU ARE UNCERTAIN)

The device has but one flaw in mmy opinion and that is that because of this tight jamming action that the cam exerts on the rope to brake and lock the rope from moving, this puts considerably more stress on the rope because it is such an instant reaction, especially in falls where lead climbing is the case because the falls them selves are usually of around 10 feet and upwards.

This said though I have been doing all styles of climbing and belaying with this device and have not noticed any defect either on the device or on my rope.

It should be noted that all belay devices are designed for a specific thickness of rope. This device will accept ropes varying in thickness between 10mm and 11mm and will only accept single ropes and will not work with half, double or twin ropes.

These belay devices are quite expensive though and should not in my opinion be used by a novice climber getting into the sport, if you are a novice climber reading this review, I would suggest you go and get a Petzl REVERSO. This is an extremely goode starting place.

The GriGri is also fantastic of rappeling and hauling equipment, just make sure you refere to the information supplied with the device and always ask if you are not sure.

Summary: A fantastic belay/rapel device for intermediate and advanced climbing enthusiasts.