The only way to travel between London and Scotland: asleep! (First ScotRail)

Member Name: jamesontheroad

Product:	First ScotRail
Date:	11/10/08 (732 review reads)
Rating:

Advantages: Comfort, convenience, romantic hangover from the days of real trains

Disadvantages: Expensive if not booked in advance

Although ScotRail operate hundreds of urban, suburban and rural passenger services throughout Scotland and a narrow slice of northern England every day, this review concentrates on what could be described as their flagship services: the Caledonian Sleepers. Since I moved to Glasgow, I've learnt to love the awesome convenience of sleeping my way to London and back: single day business trips in the capital aren't only possible, they're also enjoyable because there's no early morning or late evening airport stress.

Britain has just six overnight sleeper routes, five of which are operated by Scotrail and the sixth being run by sister firm First Great Westen - the Night Riviera between London Paddington and the south-west of England.

Six nights a week (Sunday to Friday) Scotrail operate The Lowland Sleepers (London Euston <-> Edinburgh and London Euston <-> Glasgow) and The Highland Sleepers (London Euston <-> Aberdeen, London Euston <-> Inverness and London Euston <-> Fort William). The last of these has become so legendary amongst rail travellers in the UK that is has earned its own nickname - "The Deerstalker" and has been described as a trip every train lover should take at least once. The magnificent highland scenery between Glasgow and Fort William is breathtaking and leisurely departure/arrival times mean that (especially in the summer) passengers get an amazing view to wake up to. It's also an incredible way to begin a holiday in the mountains or islands.

The Lowland Sleepers are basically one train that divides/joins en route at Carstairs; the Highland Sleepers likewise but which divide and join at Edinbugh. The Lowland Sleeper departs its termini between 23h00 or 23h30 and arrives around 07h00. The Highland Sleeper leaves its various departure points a little earlier in the evening to cover the greater distances. The sleeper travels more slowly than daytime trains so as to ensure you get a full night's sleep. Early arrivals at the termini are scheduled to let you stay in your berth a bit longer without being disturbed.

The Caledonian Sleepers are, quite simply, the most effortless and sophisticated way to travel between London and Scotland. If you are a business person seeking to maximise time away from home, they are superbly efficient. If you are a lover of old fashioned travel, they are also decidedly romantic. You can enjoy a full day and a leisurely evening meal at home or in the city before going to bed on the train and sleeping soundly to your destination.

The sleepers offer three kinds of accommodation: reclining seats, single sleeping compartments or double sleeping compartments. Single compartments are no different from doubles, except that the upper berth has been folded away and "first class" amenities such as room service and a more substantial breakfast are offered. Pairs of compartments can be conjoined so that a family of four can travel in one space. Berths command a supplement of £36 (in a shared compartment) or £51 (solo) on top of your basic train ticket. However there are many cheaper advance tickets, including the popular inclusive "bargain berths" that can only be bought on ScotRail's website: these cost £19, £29, £39 or £49 each way for less popular mid-week trains and they sell out fast. Reclining seats cost no more than the basic train ticket, but as with the rest of the train reservations are essential. For comparison, these seats are similar to first class day time travel in the UK, with approximately 30 seats per carriage and normally just one carriage per train.

Boarding the train you'll be shown to your compartment or seat by the attendant. They're on hand throughout the night and can be summoned from inside the compartment. You have luggage space above the top bunk and below the bottom one, but large suitcases may be problematic. A small amenity kit with toothbrush, paste and water is included for everyone. The linen is good quality and the compartments are air conditioned and temperature controlled from your control panel. There is a combination of cabin, reading and night lights. A blackout blind also stops the bright lights of station stops from waking you, and the inquisitive gaze of commuters in the early morning from watching you wake up.

I've always slept like a log on the sleeper, although some friends have found the ride and noise disturbing. Light sleepers may find the noise intrusive, but the coaches are smooth riding and well sound proofed. Passengers near the end of the train may experience a jolt as portions are added to or removed from the train in the early hours. Likewise you may experience louder than average noise if your berth is above the bogies at either end of the carriage. Be sure to ask for a berth numbered between 5 and 20 (1 - 4 and 21 - 24) are over the bogies.

A few cars away you will find the lounge car - this serves drinks and light snacks with some seasonal promotions showcasing Scottish produce and meals. The lounge is always popular, so don't be surprised if you can't get a seat. It is, however, the perfect place to wind down and enjoy a nightcap before bedding down. It stays open late and is open to all sleeper passengers.

If you're not travelling on a mid-week bargain berth, the sleeper can be expensive. However, the relative cost of accommodation should be considered against the cost of a hotel; and the door to door experience of your journey is infinitely better than if you go by plane.

Summary: At the very least, a once in a lifetime experience. For regular travallers, an essential service!